Sorry if this has already been asked, I've looked but couldn't see anything.
Is the anti reverse washer/gear thing hard to fit yourself ? Has anyone got a video guide on how to fit it ? Cheers
Is the anti reverse washer/gear thing hard to fit yourself ? Has anyone got a video guide on how to fit it ? Cheers
Maybe you mean the Weston after-market ‘anti reverse gear upgrade' that reduces the reverse play in the reel handles? I did this with my 6000T. It's straightforward to do, not difficult, just follow the assembly schematic linked to by Baitman (although the link isn't currently working for me).
In reply to Post #2
No it goes on the pinion(rotor) gear. The.order is washer, antireverse cog (the original ones are in 2 parts) bearing then the rotor washer. To do this drop the back end off, this will expose a window, wind the spindle down to its lowest point then you will see 2 screws. Undo these, be careful though theyre thread locked so you may need some heat. Once free remove the spindle and undo the rotor nut and retainer. This will expose the pinion gear. Undo the 3 screws then lift the whole thing out being careful you don't dislodge the pinion bush below. Replace the 2 antireverse cogs with your upgrade and reverse the process.
No it goes on the pinion(rotor) gear. The.order is washer, antireverse cog (the original ones are in 2 parts) bearing then the rotor washer. To do this drop the back end off, this will expose a window, wind the spindle down to its lowest point then you will see 2 screws. Undo these, be careful though theyre thread locked so you may need some heat. Once free remove the spindle and undo the rotor nut and retainer. This will expose the pinion gear. Undo the 3 screws then lift the whole thing out being careful you don't dislodge the pinion bush below. Replace the 2 antireverse cogs with your upgrade and reverse the process.
In reply to Post #4
I recently took a pair of old emblems apart and I'm unsure if I have put them back correctly, I'm getting a slight "brrrr" sound as i turn the handle of the reel.
Your post mentions the order of the parts...
The order is washer, antireverse cog (the original ones are in 2 parts) bearing then the rotor washer.
There is a steel washer/spacer, the two part a/r cog, and a brass washer/spacer, then the pinion gear.
Is this the right way around
I recently took a pair of old emblems apart and I'm unsure if I have put them back correctly, I'm getting a slight "brrrr" sound as i turn the handle of the reel.
Your post mentions the order of the parts...
The order is washer, antireverse cog (the original ones are in 2 parts) bearing then the rotor washer.
There is a steel washer/spacer, the two part a/r cog, and a brass washer/spacer, then the pinion gear.
Is this the right way around
In reply to Post #3
Yeah that's the one I'm on about guys. Sorry I didn't explain better. Just drives me mad the play in the handle.
Yeah that's the one I'm on about guys. Sorry I didn't explain better. Just drives me mad the play in the handle.
Just don't know if to try do it myself without a step by step tutorial or a video to follow.
In reply to Post #7
I use the daiwa S 5000t on my 10ft rods and have just got a pair for my big river barbel rods.
The little bit of "play" in the anti reverse really doesn't bother me.
Admittedly it did feel a bit unusual for the first few fish but I soon got used to the 1/8th of a turn back rotation and it's no big issue.
I use the daiwa S 5000t on my 10ft rods and have just got a pair for my big river barbel rods.
The little bit of "play" in the anti reverse really doesn't bother me.
Admittedly it did feel a bit unusual for the first few fish but I soon got used to the 1/8th of a turn back rotation and it's no big issue.
In reply to Post #8
Sorry i totally forgot a spacer, here is the ammended order. From the bottom of the pinion gear (closest to the actual cut gear). Steel washer, 2 x antireverse cogs or 1x upgraded, a spacer sleeve or ring (black or silver alloy on tourny, brass ring on emblem) bearing race then top washer
Sorry i totally forgot a spacer, here is the ammended order. From the bottom of the pinion gear (closest to the actual cut gear). Steel washer, 2 x antireverse cogs or 1x upgraded, a spacer sleeve or ring (black or silver alloy on tourny, brass ring on emblem) bearing race then top washer
In reply to Post #10
I will open them up and check the order I have them in, thanks
I will open them up and check the order I have them in, thanks
In reply to Post #11
If its in the right order check no grease has got on the actual antireverse tooth that drops down into the cog as the spring is very light in action and grease will slow this down not allowing the lever to drop quick enough mate
If its in the right order check no grease has got on the actual antireverse tooth that drops down into the cog as the spring is very light in action and grease will slow this down not allowing the lever to drop quick enough mate
In reply to Post #12
Another cause could be the pawl on the gear might bot be tight enough too mate
Another cause could be the pawl on the gear might bot be tight enough too mate
In reply to Post #12
I made that mistake the first time I opened them up
But no, the anti reverse all works correctly, but there is something not quite right and i I mentioned it's like there is a cog slightly rubbing making a brrrrr sound if you reel in.
I have checked and rechecked but can't find it. I will have a go later and see if I get any joy
I made that mistake the first time I opened them up
But no, the anti reverse all works correctly, but there is something not quite right and i I mentioned it's like there is a cog slightly rubbing making a brrrrr sound if you reel in.
I have checked and rechecked but can't find it. I will have a go later and see if I get any joy
In reply to Post #8
I haven't seen a step by step tutorial and the gear does not come with any instruction. If you take your time, remember the order you remove each part and keep them organised it's not a difficult thing to do. Use the schematic drawing as a guide and you should be fine. Just make sure you make a note/take a photo of the direction of the teeth before you remove the old gear so that you put the new one on the correct way round.
Part of the beauty of the 5000/6000T is the fact that you can open up, strip and service yourself and the construction is not overly complex. Once you've had them open a few times you'll get the hang of how they go together.
I haven't seen a step by step tutorial and the gear does not come with any instruction. If you take your time, remember the order you remove each part and keep them organised it's not a difficult thing to do. Use the schematic drawing as a guide and you should be fine. Just make sure you make a note/take a photo of the direction of the teeth before you remove the old gear so that you put the new one on the correct way round.
Part of the beauty of the 5000/6000T is the fact that you can open up, strip and service yourself and the construction is not overly complex. Once you've had them open a few times you'll get the hang of how they go together.


