I'm in a right mess this morning doing some worktops, three different sanders/polishers and two routers on the go, connecting to a dust extractor. After swapping tools a few times I end up in a birds nest of cables! Is there a decent connector so I can have one decent flex from the extractor and short leads on the tools? My festool stuff has this already but the routers/sanders are other brands
The router is the heaviest load at 2kw and I need it to lock, a sudden stop on a deep plunge cut with the router would be lethal!
It'll also solve my problem of the makita sanders only having about 4 feet of flex
The router is the heaviest load at 2kw and I need it to lock, a sudden stop on a deep plunge cut with the router would be lethal!
It'll also solve my problem of the makita sanders only having about 4 feet of flex
In reply to Post #1
Not what you want to hear mate but the solution is more dust extraction units.
Which means another £500 if you want to safely draw 2kw and actually collect dust.
You also need a cordless sander
Ffs man put your hand in your pocket
Not what you want to hear mate but the solution is more dust extraction units.
Which means another £500 if you want to safely draw 2kw and actually collect dust.
You also need a cordless sander
Ffs man put your hand in your pocket
In reply to Post #2
But then I'd need 5 extractors andhave 5 hoses in the birds nest too
I have got a cordless Sander with a Bluetooth widget for the extractor but it ain't up to the volume of work really, I'll often have a Sander going constantly for a couple of hours, only stopping to change paper grades
But then I'd need 5 extractors andhave 5 hoses in the birds nest too
I have got a cordless Sander with a Bluetooth widget for the extractor but it ain't up to the volume of work really, I'll often have a Sander going constantly for a couple of hours, only stopping to change paper grades
In reply to Post #3
Festool sanders and routers then.
Would all be interchangeable at the tool wouldn't it?
Festool sanders and routers then.
Would all be interchangeable at the tool wouldn't it?
In reply to Post #4
Now your talking
I'd have to start a go fund me page for that tho
with the festool stuff you can clip the lead to the hose and quickly swap both between tools,keeps it nice and tidy. I want a connector I can do the same using other brands
I like festool tools and generally find them good value, but I might need this kit 6 days a year, even factoring in the better user experience and the inbuilt insurance it doesn't justify being 3 times the price of a makita equivalent.
If I was fitting or refurbing acrylic tops every other week I'd do it for sure
Now your talking
I'd have to start a go fund me page for that tho
with the festool stuff you can clip the lead to the hose and quickly swap both between tools,keeps it nice and tidy. I want a connector I can do the same using other brands
I like festool tools and generally find them good value, but I might need this kit 6 days a year, even factoring in the better user experience and the inbuilt insurance it doesn't justify being 3 times the price of a makita equivalent.
If I was fitting or refurbing acrylic tops every other week I'd do it for sure
In reply to Post #5
Yeah mate it's a nice system. Been using a small domino and 5” orbit sander rigged up to the midi extractor the same way. Certainly more refined than Henry who's being dragged about by a cordless plunge saw.
Yeah mate it's a nice system. Been using a small domino and 5” orbit sander rigged up to the midi extractor the same way. Certainly more refined than Henry who's being dragged about by a cordless plunge saw.
In reply to Post #5
If these makes use different dust extractor connectors I wonder if someone in the world of 3D printing could make you a coupler?
If these makes use different dust extractor connectors I wonder if someone in the world of 3D printing could make you a coupler?
In reply to Post #7
Plenty of adaptors for the hoses, it's the cables that I need to do something about.
(although, yet again the festool system is just better, actually locking the hose to the tool)
Plenty of adaptors for the hoses, it's the cables that I need to do something about.
(although, yet again the festool system is just better, actually locking the hose to the tool)
In reply to Post #9
The second option could be a goer
Different job now so can't really show the carnage
As said, with festool tools you have one lead you plug into the extractor, which then connects to the tools, so if your using multiple tools in sequence you swap the hose and that one lead between the tools, that cable would normally be clipped to the hose too
On the job this morning I was using 7 different power tools in sequence, 5 of them not festool so that's a lot of cables to keep under control, add in a bit of time pressure and it quickly becomes a birds nest under your feet
The second option could be a goer
Different job now so can't really show the carnage
As said, with festool tools you have one lead you plug into the extractor, which then connects to the tools, so if your using multiple tools in sequence you swap the hose and that one lead between the tools, that cable would normally be clipped to the hose too
On the job this morning I was using 7 different power tools in sequence, 5 of them not festool so that's a lot of cables to keep under control, add in a bit of time pressure and it quickly becomes a birds nest under your feet
In reply to Post #9
The second one is close, but I don't see any clamp to hold the cable in the instructions, bit of a concern on a joint that'll get the odd tug
I did just find an adaptor to convert the tools to the festool lead though, £20 each
, no earth in it so I'll have to check whether the tools need that. Not sure what size cable is needed for the big router but it looks to thin for 2kw@4m.
The second one is close, but I don't see any clamp to hold the cable in the instructions, bit of a concern on a joint that'll get the odd tug
I did just find an adaptor to convert the tools to the festool lead though, £20 each
, no earth in it so I'll have to check whether the tools need that. Not sure what size cable is needed for the big router but it looks to thin for 2kw@4m.
In reply to Post #11
If they've gone to the trouble of designing a IP68 connector I'd be surprised if there's not a clamp of some sort.
I'm guessing but on the second one there might be a conical part that tightens down when the nut is done up?
The success of that will be down to the diameter of the cable, you might be lucky, might not.
Here's something with the conical part but it's a permanent joint so no good for you but demonstrates that if the diameter of the cable is just right it should clamp down ok otherwise it'll pull out over time
LINK
If they've gone to the trouble of designing a IP68 connector I'd be surprised if there's not a clamp of some sort.
I'm guessing but on the second one there might be a conical part that tightens down when the nut is done up?
The success of that will be down to the diameter of the cable, you might be lucky, might not.
Here's something with the conical part but it's a permanent joint so no good for you but demonstrates that if the diameter of the cable is just right it should clamp down ok otherwise it'll pull out over time
LINK
In reply to Post #12
Yeh your right, I'll probably need the smaller 10amp version to clamp on the smaller cables. I'll grab some and some rubber flex to have a play with
Yeh your right, I'll probably need the smaller 10amp version to clamp on the smaller cables. I'll grab some and some rubber flex to have a play with
In reply to Post #11
Might be a case of lots of googling.
I found connectors starting with the prefix SP
Cable outer diameter range
SP11: 4-6.5
SP13 I: 4-6.5mm, II: 5-8mm
SP17: 6-10mm
SP21 I: 4.5-7mm, II: 7-12mm
SP29: 13-16mm
Taken from
HERE
Video
Not saying these are 'exactly' what you want, just ideas?
EDIT
ebay?
Might be a case of lots of googling.
I found connectors starting with the prefix SP
Cable outer diameter range
SP11: 4-6.5
SP13 I: 4-6.5mm, II: 5-8mm
SP17: 6-10mm
SP21 I: 4.5-7mm, II: 7-12mm
SP29: 13-16mm
Taken from
HERE
Video
Not saying these are 'exactly' what you want, just ideas?
EDIT
ebay?
In reply to Post #10
They're expensive but those festool snag free hoses are such a good buy. The serrated ones are magnetised to bloody saw tracks
They're expensive but those festool snag free hoses are such a good buy. The serrated ones are magnetised to bloody saw tracks
In reply to Post #15
Definitely mate, I've got one with the sleeve for the cable but it was still on the bigger m class unit. I prefer the ctl mini but I'm not allowed to use it on some jobs. You do notice the difference with the more demanding jobs.
The sleeve helps a lot too, it's amazing how often the cable manages to slot itself in that channel on the track
Definitely mate, I've got one with the sleeve for the cable but it was still on the bigger m class unit. I prefer the ctl mini but I'm not allowed to use it on some jobs. You do notice the difference with the more demanding jobs.
The sleeve helps a lot too, it's amazing how often the cable manages to slot itself in that channel on the track
Can't you just make up a small extension lead ?
In reply to Post #16
I think the festool track needs updating. Dewalt have them beaten in that department
Have got a bit too comfortable with the extraction unit bigger than my van at the workshop, the cable issue you have drives me nuts with smaller tools. Festool's power unit thing on the vacuum seems the best solution but I'll be ****ed if I'm re-buying the multiple routers I often have on rotation and that unit. I'm so tight I often try putting an edge back on Stanley blades ffs
I think the festool track needs updating. Dewalt have them beaten in that department
Have got a bit too comfortable with the extraction unit bigger than my van at the workshop, the cable issue you have drives me nuts with smaller tools. Festool's power unit thing on the vacuum seems the best solution but I'll be ****ed if I'm re-buying the multiple routers I often have on rotation and that unit. I'm so tight I often try putting an edge back on Stanley blades ffs
In reply to Post #17
That's basically what I want, but with a smaller connection than a 3pin plug and 1 gang socket, that won't come apart if it gets a tug.
I did a tes run with a 10amp connector from tin heads link, bit long winded swapping and didn't take many tugs for it to come apart. The festool adaptor seems the best option for the sanders (as long as they don't have an earth, haven't checked yet)
That's basically what I want, but with a smaller connection than a 3pin plug and 1 gang socket, that won't come apart if it gets a tug.
I did a tes run with a 10amp connector from tin heads link, bit long winded swapping and didn't take many tugs for it to come apart. The festool adaptor seems the best option for the sanders (as long as they don't have an earth, haven't checked yet)
In reply to Post #18
I've tried a four gang off the extractor, but as you'll know, if your using multiple tools in rotation it's a case of knit one pearl one with the leads, the hose ends up looking like one of the paracord kettle handles after a couple of cycles
I am tempted by the festool 5 inch orbital with the edge attachment tbh, a simple idea that makes the job easier
£100 makita vs £500 festool +£100 accessory🙄
I haven't seen the dewalt track, but with all the accessories I've bought for the festool ones I hope they don't change
I've tried a four gang off the extractor, but as you'll know, if your using multiple tools in rotation it's a case of knit one pearl one with the leads, the hose ends up looking like one of the paracord kettle handles after a couple of cycles
I am tempted by the festool 5 inch orbital with the edge attachment tbh, a simple idea that makes the job easier
£100 makita vs £500 festool +£100 accessory🙄
I haven't seen the dewalt track, but with all the accessories I've bought for the festool ones I hope they don't change
In reply to Post #20
I'm using the festool 5 inch daily, it's very good. Light and ergonomic as you'd expect, but the finish is no better than a makita.
What makes a huge difference to the cable conundrum is a cordless plunge saw, such a worthy investment!
The DW track cuts on both sides and the rail is in the centre rather than offset, so the saws aren't interchangeable on the track like makita/FT.
I'm using the festool 5 inch daily, it's very good. Light and ergonomic as you'd expect, but the finish is no better than a makita.
What makes a huge difference to the cable conundrum is a cordless plunge saw, such a worthy investment!
The DW track cuts on both sides and the rail is in the centre rather than offset, so the saws aren't interchangeable on the track like makita/FT.
In reply to Post #21
I can see that being handy. I bought extra tracks to use for 45 cuts as it trims an extra mm off the splinter guard, and I got fed up of changing the strips every couple of weeks. but I've got used to using the tracks for a router, a jigsaw.. I use them as sash cramps, I have suction cramps for vertical cuts, plus jigs I've made to suit them, radial, ellipse...
That's a lot of accumulated crap that'd cost a small fortune to replace.
I can see that being handy. I bought extra tracks to use for 45 cuts as it trims an extra mm off the splinter guard, and I got fed up of changing the strips every couple of weeks. but I've got used to using the tracks for a router, a jigsaw.. I use them as sash cramps, I have suction cramps for vertical cuts, plus jigs I've made to suit them, radial, ellipse...
That's a lot of accumulated crap that'd cost a small fortune to replace.
In reply to Post #19
That's a shame they claim to have made something IP68 but only if you don't touch it
Surely there must be something out there?
That's a shame they claim to have made something IP68 but only if you don't touch it
Surely there must be something out there?
In reply to Post #23
They seem to be for outdoor lighting and stuff, where cables would be fixed. Probably more secure in the bigger sizes, but it'd be a struggle to use even a 2.5mm flex in the tools
Speaking to a sparky he stopped using them for outside lights as they often fail, but there is a type you fill with resin he'll show me next week. From the sound of it it'll work out similar cost to the festool adaptor, take longer to fit and take longer to swap between tools
They seem to be for outdoor lighting and stuff, where cables would be fixed. Probably more secure in the bigger sizes, but it'd be a struggle to use even a 2.5mm flex in the tools
Speaking to a sparky he stopped using them for outside lights as they often fail, but there is a type you fill with resin he'll show me next week. From the sound of it it'll work out similar cost to the festool adaptor, take longer to fit and take longer to swap between tools
Basically what I think you need is a single gang 230v outside socket that snaps shut so the plug for the tools don't pull out of.
This socket will be wired to your power source with a long enough lead ??
Maybe something along these lines
This socket will be wired to your power source with a long enough lead ??
Maybe something along these lines
In reply to Post #26
It's a big bulky joint hanging off the tool though, I had considered it but I think that would be a pain, I also looked a the connectors used for lawnmowers but they can be temperamental, mainly in extreme temps.
these are pretty much perfect I think, more than I wanted to spend and may need some adapting to clamp properly in the tool as the flex looks a lot thinner than the ones makita/bosch use. I'll leave the 2kw router as is I think, I can deal with one extra lead
It's a big bulky joint hanging off the tool though, I had considered it but I think that would be a pain, I also looked a the connectors used for lawnmowers but they can be temperamental, mainly in extreme temps.
these are pretty much perfect I think, more than I wanted to spend and may need some adapting to clamp properly in the tool as the flex looks a lot thinner than the ones makita/bosch use. I'll leave the 2kw router as is I think, I can deal with one extra lead
So does the connector in your pic connect to each tool when required ? And the other end has a standard 13amp plug on the end
Or do need a connector to make the lead longer in the pic ?
Or do need a connector to make the lead longer in the pic ?
In reply to Post #28
I'd have to get one connector for each tool and replace the tool flex with it.like this, without the 3d printed clip. If you have a glance at the pic in post 10, you can see the fitting on the lead hanging out of the plunge saw, you twist it a quarter turn and pull it out, you can see the socket bit it connects to on the back of the jigsaw. With the connectors I can use the festool cable with the makita sanders, trend routers, bosch planer etc
Then I just put a sleeve over hose and cable so it looks like this (but a fraction of the price)
And no more cable knitting
I'd have to get one connector for each tool and replace the tool flex with it.like this, without the 3d printed clip. If you have a glance at the pic in post 10, you can see the fitting on the lead hanging out of the plunge saw, you twist it a quarter turn and pull it out, you can see the socket bit it connects to on the back of the jigsaw. With the connectors I can use the festool cable with the makita sanders, trend routers, bosch planer etc
Then I just put a sleeve over hose and cable so it looks like this (but a fraction of the price)
And no more cable knitting
In reply to Post #29
So you use the trend version of the DW625 mate?
How does it hold up?
I have a 625 that's about 12 years old and still going, seen 2 newer ones blow up recently mine definitely feels heavier and sounds different
So you use the trend version of the DW625 mate?
How does it hold up?
I have a 625 that's about 12 years old and still going, seen 2 newer ones blow up recently mine definitely feels heavier and sounds different
In reply to Post #30
Yes and no, I have a 240v 625 and a 110v trend, the one with the bigger aperture in the base for router table use. The 240 versions are good but the 110 models are a bit under powered. I have to be really careful swapping between them, the trend can slow down on a cut the dewalt would be fine with. Tank slapper moments with a router ain't fun
I've got a t5 and a t3 too, they just keep on going after years of abuse. it's those 2 ill change the lead on
Yes and no, I have a 240v 625 and a 110v trend, the one with the bigger aperture in the base for router table use. The 240 versions are good but the 110 models are a bit under powered. I have to be really careful swapping between them, the trend can slow down on a cut the dewalt would be fine with. Tank slapper moments with a router ain't fun
I've got a t5 and a t3 too, they just keep on going after years of abuse. it's those 2 ill change the lead on
In reply to Post #31
110 is nothing but a bloody hindrance
110 is nothing but a bloody hindrance
In reply to Post #1
only just come across this....I expect you have solved
it now, but, if you chose Tinheads first link and put a
piece of "hook" Velcro on each plug and 1 separate
piece of "loop" to join the 2 plugs I think it would take
quite a lot to separate them.
only just come across this....I expect you have solved
it now, but, if you chose Tinheads first link and put a
piece of "hook" Velcro on each plug and 1 separate
piece of "loop" to join the 2 plugs I think it would take
quite a lot to separate them.
In reply to Post #33
Yeah I bought a few of the festool adaptors, only fitted one to a small router so far but it works well. Ill do the other tools as and when I need them.
I do need to work something out for the sanders as the rubber flex is about 10mm, but the cable on the adaptor is only 5 or 6 mm. Hopefully I can get away with a few layers of shrink tube or I'll be trying to make something to replace the rubber gland
Yeah I bought a few of the festool adaptors, only fitted one to a small router so far but it works well. Ill do the other tools as and when I need them.
I do need to work something out for the sanders as the rubber flex is about 10mm, but the cable on the adaptor is only 5 or 6 mm. Hopefully I can get away with a few layers of shrink tube or I'll be trying to make something to replace the rubber gland
In reply to Post #34
Not tried it myself but instead of shrink tube you could try self amalgamating tape.
Not tried it myself but instead of shrink tube you could try self amalgamating tape.
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