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In reply to Post #71
Korda's new bait boat
And new range of fishing clothing
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In reply to Post #69
Wraysbury stylee 
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In reply to Post #68
So I might be fishing the Keith Moon way soon
What, driving your Rolls Royce into the lake? Good form.
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In reply to Post #60
I've just ordered the Gardner Mirage fluorocarbon line 16lb 600m
So I might be fishing the Keith Moon way soon
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In reply to Post #66
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In reply to Post #54
With fluoro it seems to attract particles in the water and it stands out more when fishing it with a tight line, however if you fish it slack, as with a running lead and slack line then it may well benefit you more.
I do think fluorocarbons are stiffer and less castable, obviously that reduces your casting distance.
I do use mono with a slack line and running lead, it can take a fair while to get it totally slack, hanging straight from the rod tip and touching the water side (bottom) of every rod ring. You do have to keep peeling line off the reel until it has sunk totally, and any undertow can affect it.
I would cast out, tighten the line to the running lead with the rod tip under water, then keeping the rod tip down as I put the rod on the buzzer pull line off the reel. Put the indicator on at maximum drop. It would often lift as the line attempted to sink, so as it did, pull line off the reel again, and again, until it would not lift again. As I said, it can take some time, and the further out you fish the longer it could take.
Mind you, rising algae can lift it off the lakebed again!
A compromise between a mono and fluorocarbon is P-Line Floroclear. It is a fluorocarbon coated copolymer mono. It does give reasonable casting distance, I did manage 100metres with 3oz leads on a 2.75lb tc rod.
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In reply to Post #62
OK cheers
I need to make a decision, and then stick to it
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In reply to Post #60
If your fishing skills are as good as he's drumming skills you're a great angler
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| | | noj | | Posts: 11459 | | | Social photographer... | |
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In reply to Post #59
Mono isn’t dense enough, it won’t be as effective as fluorocarbon or sinking braid. Fine if you want it semi-slack or tight but is the complete opposite of what Keith and Ken have extensively written about being required.
Fluorocarbon lasts longer than mono as it doesn’t degrade anywhere near as quickly in UV light, braid lasts even longer but it doesn’t sound to me like you should entertain using braid until you have mastered the basics.
To be honest I’d just use the mono and not fish it completely slack in your shoes, slack lining isn’t the be all and end all... you need to learn when and why to do things, not just do it because some bloke that’s caught a load of fish in a setting far from your own says so
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In reply to Post #59
When I am blanking I tend to fish the Keith Moon way, which involves smashing all my kit up and throwing it in the lake 
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In reply to Post #58
I'm going to fish the Keith Moors way
I'm worried if I use Mono I will knacker that style of fishing
Dilemma dilemma lol
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In reply to Post #57
I would say unless you have a good reason, or a specific plan that really needs fluoro, stick to a good mono.
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In reply to Post #54
I've read when loading fluorocarbon onto your reel, to stop just shy of the lip.
You need to regularly stretch it out. Plus use a spin doctor lead, every so often.
You need to keep it clean.
Keep it wet when casting
So it basically needs a lot of baby sitting lol.
You can get 1000m of mono for £30,
600m of fluorocarbon is £60plus
Im probably going to fish less then100 yards well I definitely am
I'm thinking I should go for it, then I think no I shouldn't lol
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In reply to Post #54
At the start of this year I started to experiment with braid again. I much prefer mono but can see braids potential. Just had so many false starts over the years. Iwanted to fish at range and if possible improve my casting distance to give me an edge on a big water. The sinking braids had diameters not too different to equivalent mono. I tried some whiplash 8 carrier which gave me the bs/diameter I wanted but I found it didn't really sink despite being told in the shop it was fine for bottom fishing. Don't know why I did it but I treated it with Kryston Greased Lightning. It sank like a steel trolling line. This was promising. However in came lock down and I have got no further. Would be interested to hear views.
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In reply to Post #51
Would this style of fishing not work using mono
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In reply to Post #53
Depends how far you need to fish, and the lake.. I fished a murky lake and catch rates went down using fluoro, its wiry and can get dirty easily. If you fishing a very clear pit it maybe worth while but I found the negatives outweighed the benefits. Casting was horrendous! There are some very gd sinking moons that cast well such as pro distance from GLT. I'm trying out a sinking braid this week which I know Ken now uses instead of fluoro so will be interesting to see how well it does sink.. more than the neutral braid I was using is what I am after..
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In reply to Post #52
I bottled and ordered mono the other day, instead of fluorocarbon
1 cos of the hassle of it and
2 cos of the price
Should I man up and order fluorocarbon
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In reply to Post #51
Quality article 
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In reply to Post #49
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In reply to Post #48
i understood your post i was just joking
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In reply to Post #42
So are you slack lines and light lead type of guy now lol... 
"I started to follow his advice back in 2006 and it has certainly paid off form me in spades."
What part of my posts didn't you understand. 
In reply to post #43: Couldn't agree more.
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In reply to Post #46
No - far from it
You should never jump to any conclusions in carp fishing mate
Widegape beaked points have a massive following for a very good reason(s)
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In reply to Post #26
So are straight point hooks the best to use whatever the hooklink
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In reply to Post #34
If you have a really low level of practical and technical knowledge I'm not sure that this or other forums are the right place to start. A basic how to coarse angling book might be a better bet. Avoids distractions. Get out fishing and use basic skills and gain confidence and experience before trying to make sense of much of the debatable personal preferences often found on here.
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In reply to Post #41
So are you slack lines and light lead type of guy now lol
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In reply to Post #34
You will not find a more open, helpful and knowledgeable angler than Keith Moors. I started to follow his advice back in 2006 and it has certainly paid off form me in spades.
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In reply to Post #37
If you load up like I said you won't get twist, but if you doubt yourself and do it other ways you may well - because then you end up messing around
I don't give out unsound advice, I have used loads of different lines before and had problems myself
and besides line twist will happen every time you use the clutch and freespool - the key thing is, as I said, not to let it rule you or worry about it - let it twist a little, it will cope, then walk the lines out freeline occassionally and wind them back in slowly is the best fix
Line twist is only a real problem if you are using thin lines because it can weaken them
If you are using thin line for big carp you shouldn't be fishing anyway
And if you are fishing very long distance you should be using braid, which doesn't twist
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In reply to Post #36
Cheers
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In reply to Post #36
Don't worry about line twist, life is too short
That's poor advice imo.
It takes 5 seconds to check if you're adding twist to line during loading. I'd recommend doing that instead of ignoring it then spending the life of the line fixing it once a month.
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Don't worry mate, keep it simple and remember that bigshots tell you to complicate things for a very simple reason - the companies they work for make millions on overpriced little bits of plastic and tunsgetn and silly variations of swivels
As for line just wind it on through a wet towel peeling off the bulk spool anti clockwise (put a big lead weight on the bulk spool)
Don't worry about line twist, life is too short
If its bad just cut every rig thing off, walk the line out about 60 yards, then wind it back in slowly freeline and it will unravel itself nicely
Use strong gear, don't believe the hype, travel light
If you ever get confused about rigs, just watch this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y5FcZvVGjDE
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One thing I am learning about fishing is how many different opinions there are
Even down to putting line on
I think to myself, right I'm going to do it like that. Then I read something else and it says something completely different. Then I'm confused lol
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In reply to Post #33
I know didly really to be honest
I'm using this time off work to try and educate myself in carp fishing
I saw Keith's video on Utube, and I liked the style of fishing
I messaged him and he replied. Not everyone does lol
He said he had a book which he put online free. So I downloaded it and read it
I ask him questions and he replies
So I'm getting some knowledge in me bonse lol
But I know there is nothing better then getting out there and actually doing it to really learn
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He is right about the inturned eye of that Kamasan B175 hook you showed him, its turned in too extremely. That hook is deigned for fly tying, as are curve shanks. I never use either of them as they can all too easily cause mouth damage to carp.
I use size 6 Korda widegapes - fairly fine wire so very sharp indeed, I like the size and shape (quite big for a 6, fairly long shank for a widegape). The eye is only slightly inturned, in a very subtle way, this helps the hook turn when the hooklink is tightened.
I like beaked points as I think that, once in, they are harder to eject - I use them for 90% of my fishing, with simple naked helicopter rigs and long braided hooklinks. Widegapes are traditionally used with soft braids for a good reason, being that a stiff material will close up the gape too much where the material exits the eye.
Widegapes are known to be kind on carps mouths. This can be very important when you find yourself fishing for soft mouthed silt feeders - thick, smooth braids are also a MUST for fish like that, I use 25lb Armourlink and 20lb Dark Matter - both are soft with a high diameter and sink very well
Widegapes probably not being suitable for running rigs is a very helpful observation but I think he goes to extremes with his size 2. That's a very interesting observation about that, and about how straight point hooks are better for running rigs - thanks
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In reply to Post #31
I was trying to link it
But I can't do links I've forgotten how to lol
He uses size 2 hooks. But he catches monsters lol
I'm fishing the match Lake in Sandwich for now and carp only go to 18lb,so he said to use size 4 hooks
He reckoned the Kamasan B725 was to aggressive at the eye
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In reply to Post #30
Ok mate thankyou
Yes it's as I thought, straight points
Cheers
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In reply to Post #29
Sorry I was trying to do a link but went all tits up
I showed him the Kamasan B725
He said use Solar 101s
I said can't use them cos they are barbed
So he showed me the Gardner Covert Incizor
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What was the hook he showed YOU mate please
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In reply to Post #26
And what was that hook?
These forums are for learning and I suggest not being cagey about things which might be important - I imagine you will say a straight point, curve type (not my cuppa tea anyway)
Every lake is different anyway - on some lakes, running rigs with light leads are 100% definitely a foul hooking risk
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In reply to Post #25
Keith Moors has caught mammoth amounts of carp fishing that way. Including 50 50lb+ carp
He says all well hooked
Maybe it has a lot to do with using right hooks
I showed him a hook I wanted to use, and he put me right by showing me the hook I should use
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Sometimes running leads can lead to foul hooking and facial hooking because the hook scrapes the mouth, spooks them, and they re-hook themselves as they are turning away and shaking their heads - there isn't any tension to set the hook in the first place - I saw it happen on a tricky lake I fish and it worried me, I looked into it and it turned out a big name had spoken about this problem as well
I still like running leads but I only use them on a tight line with a heavy bobbin - that way the setup acts like a fixed lead because there is tension in it
Heavy running lead (minimum 2.5oz ) on a safety run ring clip (weak link such as C clip) is the best way to snag fish IMO
I would never touch a light running lead again, light leads are for helicopter setups IMO
Hook needs to be stupidly sharp for fishing running, much more important than with any other lead setup
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Twin swan shot link ledger maybe using fluoro straight through?
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In reply to Post #17
Korda do coated leads from 1.1 oz
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Ok thanks for asking! Yes will check out guru leads and eBay
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In reply to Post #17
Keith just said he was given a box full many yrs ago
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In reply to Post #17
Ebay has a bunch of sellers doing them in all shapes.
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| | | noj | | Posts: 11459 | | | Social photographer... | |
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In reply to Post #17
Guru make small coated leads, I use them occasionally
Otherwise arlesey bombs
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In reply to Post #17
I've just asked him. Will let you know if he answers. And doesn't think I'm to nosey lol
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I wonder where he gets his light leads from. Most lead manufacturers seem to only sell coated leads over 1.5oz a few do 1oz as their lightest. Perhaps he’s using uncoated leads? I have a few uncoated leads in my coarse tackle box.
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In reply to Post #15
Keith told me he caught a 24lb linear recently, and the lead he was using was only 0.25oz
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In reply to Post #14
I can't wait to try this method out
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| | | noj | | Posts: 11459 | | | Social photographer... | |
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In reply to Post #12
I fish it the same way as Keith, as do many others.
It’s not relying on the lead to drive the hook home, just heavy line and a tight set drag.
The lead is purely to get a rig to the fish.
You’re overthinking possibly the simplest method of angling, just take the advice (word for word if I was you) and worry about finding carp
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In reply to Post #9
Keith uses Gardner Mirage fluorocarbon main line
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In reply to Post #11
Keith moors way of thinking is a heavy lead only helps the carp.
He says when playing the carp the lead is bouncing about to much
He also says with a heavy lead the line comes off the bottom at strange angles when the bait is taken
Wheras with a light lead the lead is more likely to lift off the bottom when the bait is taken
Keeping the line lay more natural
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In reply to Post #1
Keith Moors catches fish, that much is obvious, on his tubeless light running lead approach.
I use a running lead as much as I can, either with or without tubing. Tubing if the bottom is a little bit snaggy or rocky, if it is clear I go naked.
The only difference is I prefer a heavier lead, around 3-3.5oz
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In reply to Post #1
I don't use tubbing but I only fish in the edge
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In reply to Post #8
Personaly i wouldn't use tubing when using a running rig, same as Keith.
I would use a big diameter fluocarbon mainline.
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In reply to Post #6
Do you think I shouldn't use any tubing then
So should I use main line right up to the hook link.
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In reply to Post #5
A lot of people use a heavy lead with the running lead set up
Keith reckons a heavy head is just a hindrance. He says the lead is only needed to help you cast out. His way of thinking is a leads not needed to help make a carp take the hook.
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In reply to Post #5
Correct.
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In reply to Post #4
No I meant he swears by using the running lead with slack line and a light lead.
He doesn't use any tubing. He says he's never damaged or lifted any carps scales
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In reply to Post #3
Keith swears by it because of safety reasons clearly.
To protect the fish in his lake in case of a line breakage.
But it's pretty clear his running rig set-up works a treat.
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In reply to Post #2
Do you use a light lead and slack line
Keith Moors swears by it, and he's caught 50 50lb carp
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Hi
I’ve been using running rigs almost exclusively for the past few years. My preferred set up from rig upwards is
Rig with loop attachment attached to;
Quick change swivel rammed into an Osprey tulip bead (on offer on tackle box)
30-45cm of Korda tungsten tubing, rammed inside the tulip bead
Enterprise snag safe run ring kit on the lighter clips
Personally, Always use tubing for fish protection where possible, and I know it will pin the last foot or so to the deck. Having the tubing rammed into the tulip bead means it won’t slide up, unlike when fishing lead clips, it often comes up if the lead drops out.
Hope this helps.
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I'm going to use the running lead system with slack line and light lead
I'm going to do it the Keith Moors way
He told me he doesn't use any tubing on the line
I'm basically a beginner to carping well ish anyway
Every where i read use tubing because it protects the fish
I just wondered what other people thought about using or not using tubing
Is tubing usable when fishing slack lines
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Rigs