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   Old Thread  #78 4 Apr 2019 at 1.13pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #77
It was literally pitch black, but the rhino beam certainly helps imo. Taken way described in my post


34.2
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   Old Thread  #77 4 Apr 2019 at 12.05pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #76
Agree, the rhino jobbies are great, absolute revelation for 20 quid.
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   Old Thread  #76 4 Apr 2019 at 11.52am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #43
When I got my d5300 I YouTubed tutorials and got a good idea how to find the functions, used to use a canon so different set up.

The issues I had with the built in intervelometer are -

Live view does not work, so basically the flip round screen is useless (I never had a flip round screen on my canon 550d so used to doing it without the screen, but as it’s there you may aswel use it. I do my shots portrait, so framing is easy, as long as the mat is in the shot at the bottom and I pose in the middle, with the focus point aimed where the fish will be, then it’s a piece of cake. But like I say, with the flip round screen it does make it easier, especially if you take pics the more conventional way of landscape.

My biggest annoyance with the built in intervelometer is the timing. You can not set it to start say in 30 seconds, you have to input a time ie 12.33, all well and good but if like I did the other night, fall in the lake, that wasted a few mins and by then the timing is now out (as It’s now 12.36) so have to reset it!!

Like someone else has said, with the fish still in the net, you can set up the external one to (what I use)

Delay of 25secs
Intervals of 6secs (can get away with less during day but at night 6 allows flash to recharge of whatever technical name)
12 shots.

Then with a few practice shots taken on the tripod and happy with the iso/ss/f il then get fish out and weigh, then quickly cover up with mat lid, run all of the meter or so to push start button on the intervelometer. Run back pick fish and pose. Then repeat with other side.

Issues with self focusing is due to dark, I hate having a head torch on or one shining a beam at me. A great purchase is a rhino beam or similar knock offs. These help with the focusing issue and get a much better pic aswel as reliving the use of a head torch to see what your doing. Mounted on a tripod at an angle also helps with flash glare
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   Old Thread  #75 4 Apr 2019 at 10.36am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #73
The kit lens is capable of far more than most anglers give credit for

I agree with that.

But they're nowhere near as good as primes (for trophy shots) imo.
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   Old Thread  #74 4 Apr 2019 at 10.34am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #72
I must admit I normally stop down to ~2.5 on my 1.8 to get the results I'm after.
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   Old Thread  #73 4 Apr 2019 at 10.32am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #72
The point being that just because a lens is technically on paper better quality and costs loads more - it does not mean you will get a better trophy shot.

The kit lens is capable of far more than most anglers give credit for or even bother try to learn how to use.

I guess like most things carpy - if it costs more it must be better for me right?


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   Old Thread  #72 4 Apr 2019 at 10.11am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #71
OK, not sure what the relevance of that is then.

It's 100% fact that stopping a lens down slightly increases it's sharpness and contrast. The effect may only be slight but it becomes more apparent during processing. It makes a noticeable difference with the equipment I use.

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   Old Thread  #71 4 Apr 2019 at 10.06am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #70
It's not for trophy shots obviously
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   Old Thread  #70 4 Apr 2019 at 10.05am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #69
300 lens for trophy shots... eh?

You could have saves yourself 4 grand and got a top end 50 mil instead and been able to shoot nearer f1 than 1.8
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   Old Thread  #69 4 Apr 2019 at 10.00am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #68
If you open up - as I said below - you lose too much depth of field for the purposes of a trophy shot.

Sharpness and contrast improvement? - no - not in any real life sense.
Mostly down to post-processing as long as it's focussed and exposed correctly.
Nothing you couldn't get from the kit lens.


My 300 f 2.8 (£5000 + new!!) - should give me massively improved quality in end result trophy shots right?
I tried it under the same conditions as the 18-55 kit lens and guess what...
... by the time I'd compensated for the fact that it's the wrong lens for the job - no improvement at all.

Fact



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   Old Thread  #68 4 Apr 2019 at 9.54am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #67
Yes, but will get better sharpness and contrast. if you need to open to 1.8 you still have the option to do so.
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   Old Thread  #67 4 Apr 2019 at 9.52am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #66
If you stop down to f4 you are not using the extra light capability.

The extra light capability has no practical use in this application.
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   Old Thread  #66 4 Apr 2019 at 9.49am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #63
It's nice to have the low light capability of a sub f2 lens for the odd occasion you may need it. Shooting wide open with a 1.8 at the kind of distance a trophy is usually taken at will result in a shallow depth of focus which can be quite difficult to manage in terms of keeping the right parts of the shot in focus when you also have to concentrate on being careful with the fish you're holding. reducing the aperture to f4 or 5.6 gives you a larger area that will be in focus which will help you keep your shots nice and sharp, in the right place within the frame. The sweet aperture spot on most lenses ranges from around 1-2 stops above max aperture to around 2-3 stops below min aperture. By using a 1.8 lens stopped down slightly you can still throw the background out of focus, if you had a 5.6 lens you would stop down to f11 which wouldn't really give much differential focus to seperate the background from the angler.

It helps a lot if you can ensure the background is a good distance away from the angler. Then the background will be slightly out of focus and help keep the eyes attention on the angler and the fish.
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   Old Thread  #65 4 Apr 2019 at 9.44am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #64
For sure, this is where you need to play around to find what you're happy with, doing it on the bank is not the one.
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   Old Thread  #64 4 Apr 2019 at 9.26am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
Some numbers to bear in mind - measured through experimentation..

On a crop-sensor SLR, to correctly frame a capture shot at 35mm the camera needs to be about 5 feet from the fish, and then you’ll be about a foot behind it, so you’re looking a good 18” or so depth of field to keep you and fish in focus.

To get a depth of field of 18” 5 feet away the f-stop needs to be around f4 -f5

If you want to use a lower f-stop value then the only way to keep both you and fish in focus is to move the camera further away from you - which screws up your framing - giving you a huge crop to perform afterwards.

If you try to “zoom in” to compensate for the framing you will lose even more depth of field, at 50mm you’ll be down to a couple of inches.


If you stay 5 feet from the camera, and go to f1.8 then your depth of field 5 feet away is only around 5 inches - barely enough to keep the fish in focus, but you’ll be blurred.
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