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   Old Thread  #118 12 Apr 2019 at 4.46pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #117
I think they have their place in carp fishing photography, the dark moody atmospheric last light shot. But problem is it's used on every bloody image, they just became a cliche and spoil what could and should be, a great trophy shot, with an impressive carp.
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   Old Thread  #117 12 Apr 2019 at 4.30pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #115
I almost fell into this under exposed shot business. Posted one photo on Instagram. I look back now and think how stupid it looks. Some of them are OK depending on the shot. Dark atmospheric mornings and all that. Most though are unnecessary. TA like sharing these shots also, they do seem to be in bed with Sticky though.
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   Old Thread  #116 12 Apr 2019 at 4.29pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #112
Maybe this is all influenced by the likes of Instagram. Some photo gets loads of likes then it's as though people are stuck in an echo chamber and think it's the way their photos should be. I personally feel some of these websites are killing photography as we see the same images over and over again.

But there again I still remember when staring at the head of the fish all serious became the norm, I've never managed to do that I still look at the camera and smile.
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   Old Thread  #115 12 Apr 2019 at 2.08pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #112
100% especially anything shared on social media by Sticky - I have even re-edited their images and posted them back to the comments!
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   Old Thread  #114 12 Apr 2019 at 8.27am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
Cheers for all you help guys. Loads to learn. Hopefully wonít take long to get a basic understanding of it all
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   Old Thread  #113 11 Apr 2019 at 9.38pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #112
Say it how it is Tim!
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   Old Thread  #112 10 Apr 2019 at 9.54pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #111
And don't forget when finally catching that fish of your dreams .......You must under expose by at least three stops and put a ton of vignetting around the edges post processing ...... Some carp pics i see these days are barely visible on my monitor...... Darrker than dark things.......sigh.....

Regards Tad.
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   Old Thread  #111 5 Apr 2019 at 6.40pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #109
I'll check that program out, I have some dxo software I only use for the prime denoise tool , but any new camera I might get won't be supported

When settings get to that stage a flash is the answer, but I don't have a popup flash on mine, and if I'm getting a gun out I have to go the hole hog
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   Old Thread  #110 5 Apr 2019 at 6.07pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
With regards to cameras I think you are likely to get many different answers, there are no bad SLRs on the market now - If I was you I would look at the used market..... MPB.COM is a good place to start I have brought thousands of pounds of kit from them over the years and never had an issue.

Canon 70D or any of the Nikon 5000 series will do the job perfectly and both have flip round screen.

My main camera is a 6D but have a 70D for back up and video.

If buying a crop sensor (canon 70D, Nikon D5000 series etc) pair it with a 35mm 1.8 for trophy shots - If buying a full frame get a 50mm 1.8 (look into camera sensor size explained if you are interested)

With regards to settings, aperture priority would be my suggestion - set it at F4 which which keep you and the fish sharp and render the background lovely and soft (try and have a few metres between you and the background if possible!!), adjust the ISO to suit - until you get 1/60 sec of faster.

Worth getting a TTL flash gun also, there are some good ones out there at a reasonable cost - I can recommend the Newer ones, I have a pair with triggers that I used for my wildlife stuff.

Editing wise, I used both Lightroom and Photoshop with a google Nik plugin for noise reduction (using this less and less now I have given up wildlife photography - however there are many free programs on the editing that do a good job.

I would also shoot raw or (jpeg +raw until you are confident editing), this will enable you to correct white balance etc which occasional the camera doesn't get right.

As for a remote, I use an old fashioned air bulb release - nothing to go wrong (don't ask!) and foot operated
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   Old Thread  #109 5 Apr 2019 at 5.58pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #108
Topaz Denoise PS plug-in was a good one I used for ages.

Changed to Neat Image a few years ago - even better.

If you set an appropriate ISO in Av mode the camera is not going to take your shutter speed that low.
The same educated guessing game

The trick is knowing how slow you can get away with on the shutter speed without motion blur.
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   Old Thread  #108 5 Apr 2019 at 5.51pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #107
Basically yes, a bit of educated guessing goes into the settings beforehand to give a bit of buffer.
The thing is, there are great programs for cleaning up a noisy image, but you can't do bugger all with motion blur when the camera decides 1/10 is right.
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   Old Thread  #107 5 Apr 2019 at 5.08pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #106
Just curious as I've never used it.

If you set a limit on auto ISO, what happens if the scene is too dark? Presumably it will under-expose the shot on the highest ISO setting you've allowed?

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   Old Thread  #106 5 Apr 2019 at 5.04pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #105
Indeed, I use manual with auto iso because I can set a limit on max iso, but I can't set a limit on min ss in aperture priority, this is mainly an issue in duller light conditions, on brighter days I will often use aperture mode
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   Old Thread  #105 5 Apr 2019 at 4.29pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #104
The only thing to watch for with auto ISO is it may suddenly choose 1600 giving you quite a grainy picture, when you may have gotten away with a lower shutter speed instead.

Valid way of getting there though.
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   Old Thread  #104 5 Apr 2019 at 3.53pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #94
Another thing, when your fishing, set up your camera and take some practice shots. Iv done this at night when I canít sleep, so if I get one in the dark Iím not faffing about trying to work out the settings. Good idea about auto iso in daylight as mentioned. Clouds will make a perfect shot pants if itís on full manual mode.

Another tip, before putting the fish back just quickly check a pic or two, especially with a special fish.
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   Old Thread  #103 5 Apr 2019 at 12.45pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
OK chaps will have a little Google and see what comes up
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   Old Thread  #102 5 Apr 2019 at 10.45am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #100
YouTube tutorials also worth a gander.
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   Old Thread  #101 5 Apr 2019 at 10.45am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #100
Totally agree - no need for a book

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   Old Thread  #100 5 Apr 2019 at 10.38am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #99
I never found a book to be much use tbh, I'd say again to Google exposure triangle and you'll get loads of beginner guides to give a basic understanding, then just learn one setting at a time. I think mirror less cameras are better to learn with as your seeing in real time how the final image will look.

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   Old Thread  #99 5 Apr 2019 at 9.19am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
Can anyone recommend a decent book for beginners at all? I'm used to using a basic compact camera and have absolutely no photography knowledge at all
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   Old Thread  #98 5 Apr 2019 at 9.01am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #97
All correct


That was just a start-up guide for those struggling to make sense of it all.

Most anglers will be on crop sensors and 35mm focal length is a good place to start.

There's a lot to get into if you really want to, but taking a decent trophy shot isn't that difficult with some basic rules/settings.
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   Old Thread  #97 5 Apr 2019 at 8.57am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #96
Focal length will have an impact on settings, f4 may not be available at a given length with the kit lens, and you can get away with bigger apertures at the wider end. Not really relevant with the kit lens but hey ho.

A basic knowledge of crop factor is handy when asking advice on settings, if I say my settings were 17mm f2. 8 iso 200 ss 1/400 a full frame user might cringe and say 35mm f5. 6 iso800 1/400 would be better. We'd both be right but are using different formats, and both shots would be nigh on identical
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   Old Thread  #96 5 Apr 2019 at 8.27am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
The exposure triangle is a good place to start - learn the relationship between the 3 settings and it will all make sense.

Simplest explanation I can think of for fishing trophy shots

ISO - this is generally governed by the ambient light. Bright sunny day - low ISO (200) - dull and heavy cloud - higher (800)

Aperture or f-stop - this is governed by how much of the shot you want in focus - as discussed below usually around f4 for landscape (sideways) shots.

Shutter speed - this will be your compromise to get the exposure right.


Day time I find it best to use Av mode - aperture priority.
The light may be constantly changing and you need some sort of automation to keep up with sun going behind clouds etc.

You know you want to be at f4 so set that.
Then set your ISO - 200 for bright sunshine, 400 for average, and 800 for a really dull day.

Your camera will now choose a shutter speed that will compensate for the settings youíve already set for the other 2.
If you try to set the ISO too low for the day the shutter speed will be too slow and youíll get blur.


At night the light is much more constant, you are controlling the source, so I use full manual at night.

As someone said below, most cameras limit the shutter speed for flash shots, so as that is fixed, start there.

Set the shutter speed as high as it will go for flash (1/200 on mine)
Set your ISO to 400 - that should be fine for flash or beam.
Set your Aperture to f4 - same as before for the same reason.

Take a test shot - if itís too dark lower your shutter speed a little - if itís too bright - change your ISO to 200.


That should get you in the ballpark.
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   Old Thread  #95 5 Apr 2019 at 8.19am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #93
I tend to go manual, and use auto iso if light levels are changing like on cloudy days, or full manual with auto flash at night.
Not sure if the dslrs allow that tho.

For special ones at night I will be full manual, flash and all to get it right, but it takes a lot of learning and experimenting to get to that, and settings that work on one day won't necessarily apply the next
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   Old Thread  #94 5 Apr 2019 at 8.19am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
Cheers guys, working over the weekend, so no better time to sit and watch some YouTube videos I think. Might order that dummies guide and have a read of that aswell.
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   Old Thread  #93 5 Apr 2019 at 8.10am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #92
Full manual is a step too far for me, I'm not good enough for that stuff. Normally use a priority mode.

Heff,
Your priority modes are:

Aperture priority (A mode on Nikons) = lets you select aperture and the camera will choose shutter speed to suit.

Shutter priority (S mode) = this lets you select shutter speed and the camera chooses aperture to suit.

In both modes you can select ISO manually or select auto ISO which makes it very easy, particularly when you're just learning your way around the camera.

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   Old Thread  #92 5 Apr 2019 at 7.51am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #90
Best thing Is spend a few hours watching you tube vids. Basically what Duggs said.

Iso, ss, f all work together! Ie

Ss 1/100. F 10. Iso 400. IF that comes out the right light levels, then if you make
Ss 1/100. F 4. Iso 400. It will be a lot brighter as you have Let more light in with lower f.
Ss 1/160 f 10. Iso 200 May be same results as option 1.

So Iím a nut shell I look for

Fastest ss (avoid movement blur)
Lowest iso (depending on camera, good ones high ISOís donít matter, but on your Ďbudgetí dslr it gets grainy)
And f. To what you desire in terms of - low give the object in focus sharp rest blurry, high - everything sharp. but if itís high is f20 then youíll have to make the ss lower or iso higher to compensate.

If your getting stuck on full manual try shooting on av mode. This lets you choose the f. (Aperture) and rest will work out to suit the conditions
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   Old Thread  #91 5 Apr 2019 at 5.49am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #90
Google "exposure triangle" and you should dissappear down an Internet wormhole for a while. It'll help to understand the three basic settings and terminology like ev (exposure value, sometimes referred to as stops)

At 1/4000 you need a lot of light, if the aperture and iso settings don't balance with that shutter speed the pics will be dark. Your flash won't fire at that speed either, as they're typically limited to between 1/160 and 1/350 shutter speed.




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   Old Thread  #90 4 Apr 2019 at 9.36pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
Wow theres a lot to learn isnt there. Thanks for all your help so far guys. Keep it coming lol. Might have to invest in a book aswell.
I was messi g aboit yesterday and was getting sone shots come out really dark. Cant remember wether it was the aperure or shutter speed, pretty sure it was shutter speed. Is there a reason for that. It was when it was at the 1/4000 end of the settings.
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   Old Thread  #89 4 Apr 2019 at 5.52pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #87
Yeah was tempted to go down to 2.8-3 but more room for error so stuck with 4 to be on the safer side. Also to get more background blur I could Have got further from the bushes, but find that helps to illuminate the background
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   Old Thread  #88 4 Apr 2019 at 5.06pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #87
The extra distance helps with flash shots imo, it lessens the difference between subject and background and makes for a nicer pic. I like a 35mm equivalent lens but only if I have an off camera flash with me so I can keep it farther back
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   Old Thread  #87 4 Apr 2019 at 5.00pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #84
Yes the Portrait aspect is what interested me as you'll get more depth of field with that extra distance, but of course the flash may well drop off.
Looks like you could actually get away with opening up a little more than f4

Mine are landscape @ 35mm with just the onboard flash and a low level torch for focus assist - ISO 400, f4, 1/200.
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   Old Thread  #86 4 Apr 2019 at 4.52pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #69
Some evidence of this in March catch results. Just sayin..
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   Old Thread  #85 4 Apr 2019 at 4.30pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #73
One immediately noticeable difference will be in low light focusing, since the focusing is done with the lens wide open. 2 stops (or 4 times) extra light makes a big difference.

I'm not sure your point on cost is totally relevant here, as the price different between a kit lens and a cheap 1.8 prime is peanuts really
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   Old Thread  #84 4 Apr 2019 at 4.25pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #83
Cheers mate. Ss was 1/80, f. 4 and iso 400.

I find at night thatís the sort of settings to have, specially with a rhino beam.

Bare in mind as I take mine portrait with a 35mm Iím further away then most. So if you are closer you can prob get away with faster ss
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   Old Thread  #83 4 Apr 2019 at 3.23pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #78
Always admired your shots Vinnie

Out of curiosity what was the SS, aperture & iso for that one?
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   Old Thread  #82 4 Apr 2019 at 2.14pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
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   Old Thread  #81 4 Apr 2019 at 2.11pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #80
Likewise, I whack mine on a bankstick, gives me room to play with shadows etc.
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   Old Thread  #80 4 Apr 2019 at 2.08pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #79
Cheers mate. I mount mine separately not on the camera. Having it closer and In conjunction with the flash is the best thing to do from what iv found
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   Old Thread  #79 4 Apr 2019 at 2.00pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #78
I'm thinking of getting a second to really light it up.

Nice carp Vinnie.
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   Old Thread  #78 4 Apr 2019 at 1.13pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #77
It was literally pitch black, but the rhino beam certainly helps imo. Taken way described in my post


34.2
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   Old Thread  #77 4 Apr 2019 at 12.05pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #76
Agree, the rhino jobbies are great, absolute revelation for 20 quid.
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   Old Thread  #76 4 Apr 2019 at 11.52am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #43
When I got my d5300 I YouTubed tutorials and got a good idea how to find the functions, used to use a canon so different set up.

The issues I had with the built in intervelometer are -

Live view does not work, so basically the flip round screen is useless (I never had a flip round screen on my canon 550d so used to doing it without the screen, but as itís there you may aswel use it. I do my shots portrait, so framing is easy, as long as the mat is in the shot at the bottom and I pose in the middle, with the focus point aimed where the fish will be, then itís a piece of cake. But like I say, with the flip round screen it does make it easier, especially if you take pics the more conventional way of landscape.

My biggest annoyance with the built in intervelometer is the timing. You can not set it to start say in 30 seconds, you have to input a time ie 12.33, all well and good but if like I did the other night, fall in the lake, that wasted a few mins and by then the timing is now out (as Itís now 12.36) so have to reset it!!

Like someone else has said, with the fish still in the net, you can set up the external one to (what I use)

Delay of 25secs
Intervals of 6secs (can get away with less during day but at night 6 allows flash to recharge of whatever technical name)
12 shots.

Then with a few practice shots taken on the tripod and happy with the iso/ss/f il then get fish out and weigh, then quickly cover up with mat lid, run all of the meter or so to push start button on the intervelometer. Run back pick fish and pose. Then repeat with other side.

Issues with self focusing is due to dark, I hate having a head torch on or one shining a beam at me. A great purchase is a rhino beam or similar knock offs. These help with the focusing issue and get a much better pic aswel as reliving the use of a head torch to see what your doing. Mounted on a tripod at an angle also helps with flash glare
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   Old Thread  #75 4 Apr 2019 at 10.36am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #73
The kit lens is capable of far more than most anglers give credit for

I agree with that.

But they're nowhere near as good as primes (for trophy shots) imo.
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   Old Thread  #74 4 Apr 2019 at 10.34am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #72
I must admit I normally stop down to ~2.5 on my 1.8 to get the results I'm after.
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   Old Thread  #73 4 Apr 2019 at 10.32am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #72
The point being that just because a lens is technically on paper better quality and costs loads more - it does not mean you will get a better trophy shot.

The kit lens is capable of far more than most anglers give credit for or even bother try to learn how to use.

I guess like most things carpy - if it costs more it must be better for me right?


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   Old Thread  #72 4 Apr 2019 at 10.11am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #71
OK, not sure what the relevance of that is then.

It's 100% fact that stopping a lens down slightly increases it's sharpness and contrast. The effect may only be slight but it becomes more apparent during processing. It makes a noticeable difference with the equipment I use.

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   Old Thread  #71 4 Apr 2019 at 10.06am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #70
It's not for trophy shots obviously
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   Old Thread  #70 4 Apr 2019 at 10.05am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #69
300 lens for trophy shots... eh?

You could have saves yourself 4 grand and got a top end 50 mil instead and been able to shoot nearer f1 than 1.8
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   Old Thread  #69 4 Apr 2019 at 10.00am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #68
If you open up - as I said below - you lose too much depth of field for the purposes of a trophy shot.

Sharpness and contrast improvement? - no - not in any real life sense.
Mostly down to post-processing as long as it's focussed and exposed correctly.
Nothing you couldn't get from the kit lens.


My 300 f 2.8 (£5000 + new!!) - should give me massively improved quality in end result trophy shots right?
I tried it under the same conditions as the 18-55 kit lens and guess what...
... by the time I'd compensated for the fact that it's the wrong lens for the job - no improvement at all.

Fact



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   Old Thread  #68 4 Apr 2019 at 9.54am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #67
Yes, but will get better sharpness and contrast. if you need to open to 1.8 you still have the option to do so.
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   Old Thread  #67 4 Apr 2019 at 9.52am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #66
If you stop down to f4 you are not using the extra light capability.

The extra light capability has no practical use in this application.
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   Old Thread  #66 4 Apr 2019 at 9.49am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #63
It's nice to have the low light capability of a sub f2 lens for the odd occasion you may need it. Shooting wide open with a 1.8 at the kind of distance a trophy is usually taken at will result in a shallow depth of focus which can be quite difficult to manage in terms of keeping the right parts of the shot in focus when you also have to concentrate on being careful with the fish you're holding. reducing the aperture to f4 or 5.6 gives you a larger area that will be in focus which will help you keep your shots nice and sharp, in the right place within the frame. The sweet aperture spot on most lenses ranges from around 1-2 stops above max aperture to around 2-3 stops below min aperture. By using a 1.8 lens stopped down slightly you can still throw the background out of focus, if you had a 5.6 lens you would stop down to f11 which wouldn't really give much differential focus to seperate the background from the angler.

It helps a lot if you can ensure the background is a good distance away from the angler. Then the background will be slightly out of focus and help keep the eyes attention on the angler and the fish.
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   Old Thread  #65 4 Apr 2019 at 9.44am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #64
For sure, this is where you need to play around to find what you're happy with, doing it on the bank is not the one.
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   Old Thread  #64 4 Apr 2019 at 9.26am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
Some numbers to bear in mind - measured through experimentation..

On a crop-sensor SLR, to correctly frame a capture shot at 35mm the camera needs to be about 5 feet from the fish, and then youíll be about a foot behind it, so youíre looking a good 18Ē or so depth of field to keep you and fish in focus.

To get a depth of field of 18Ē 5 feet away the f-stop needs to be around f4 -f5

If you want to use a lower f-stop value then the only way to keep both you and fish in focus is to move the camera further away from you - which screws up your framing - giving you a huge crop to perform afterwards.

If you try to ďzoom inĒ to compensate for the framing you will lose even more depth of field, at 50mm youíll be down to a couple of inches.


If you stay 5 feet from the camera, and go to f1.8 then your depth of field 5 feet away is only around 5 inches - barely enough to keep the fish in focus, but youíll be blurred.
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   Old Thread  #63 4 Apr 2019 at 9.08am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
Genuine question...

Why are people spending money on f1.8 or f2 lenses - and stopping them down to f4?

Seems like a massive waste of money to me.
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   Old Thread  #62 4 Apr 2019 at 9.03am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #59
It seems f4 on the Nikon 35mm 1.8 is pretty bang on.
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   Old Thread  #61 4 Apr 2019 at 8.28am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #60
Yes mate

Cheers yonny
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   Old Thread  #60 4 Apr 2019 at 8.15am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #53
What lens have you got, 18 to 55mm ?
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   Old Thread  #59 4 Apr 2019 at 8.08am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
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He's saying to avoid softness in the corners of your shots it can pay to select an f number slightly higher than the lowest you have available (giving you a slightly smaller aperture) so for the 35mm f1.8 lens f2 or f2.8 might give better results.
Of course my advice is just a starting point to have a play around. It should give you a good idea of what your camera/lens is capable of in terms of subject separation/isolation. Once you get used to the camera you'll soon figure out what you like/don't like.
Have fun mate.
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   Old Thread  #58 3 Apr 2019 at 5.09pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #55
sorry mate, that means nothing to me. Im a total novice with this stuff. Cheers
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   Old Thread  #57 3 Apr 2019 at 5.08pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #54
Cheers yonny
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   Old Thread  #56 3 Apr 2019 at 4.22pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #55
Nice tip
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   Old Thread  #55 3 Apr 2019 at 4.12pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #54
Good advice, what i want to add is that all lens perform better stopped down a stop or two from wide open, even pro level lenses can suffer corner softness wide open.
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   Old Thread  #54 3 Apr 2019 at 3.57pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #53
I'm not that familiar with Nikons but try as follows:
Hoy it in aperture priority mode, stop down to the lowest F number your lens is capable of (f1.8 on the 35 mm or f3.5 on the 18-55 kit lens (I think)), single point AF and select the area that'll hold the fish in the framed shot. Give yourself a little separation from the subject (you) and the background. Click away.
Same for night but use an external light source (rhino beam is cheap and decent) to allow the camera to focus prior to shooting.
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   Old Thread  #53 3 Apr 2019 at 3.41pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
Anyone got any setting they wouldnt mind sharing that i can have a play around with please? Trophy shot settings is what im after, and is this different for day and night?
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   Old Thread  #52 3 Apr 2019 at 2.23pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
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Just seen thatís already been said.
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   Old Thread  #51 3 Apr 2019 at 2.21pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #9
You donít need a intervalometer with the d5300 it already has a built in inerval timer mate
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   Old Thread  #50 2 Apr 2019 at 11.19pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
Anyone looking for a new camera, in particular the d5300. I ordered mine from SLRhut. Found a £20 off code, pretty sure it was 20off, so got the camera for £359. Used the £20 saved for the 3-5 day express delivery.

Ordered on Sunday, phone call on Monday to confirm shipping details, parcel arrived at stanstead airport today, expected delivery is by midday tomorrow.

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   Old Thread  #49 2 Apr 2019 at 10.28pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #39
Your interval time is the problem there mate. The screen will only stay on if the interval is 6 seconds (I think) minimum.
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   Old Thread  #48 2 Apr 2019 at 6.41pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #46
Looks identical to that one mate yeah.

Hopefully lots of use mate yeah. Hopefully on a few bigguns
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   Old Thread  #47 2 Apr 2019 at 6.30pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #45
Looks like your good to go then, you will get a lot of use out of your camera. Good choice.
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   Old Thread  #46 2 Apr 2019 at 6.27pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #43
The connection into the camera is rectangular if that helps.

Edit: This cable end, the square one is the Nikon end.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pixel-Camera-Connecting-Plug-Nikon/dp/B004KIUUYY
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   Old Thread  #45 2 Apr 2019 at 6.24pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #44
It doesnt, but i googled MC-DC2 and the pictures look identical to what i have
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   Old Thread  #44 2 Apr 2019 at 6.13pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #43
Does it have MC-DC2 on it anywhere?
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   Old Thread  #43 2 Apr 2019 at 4.45pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
Cheers for the help guys, i went for a d5300. Just waiting on delivery.

Also ordered an intervalometer. Not sure it is the right fitting though. Amazon said it would work with the d5300. Got it out to have a look earlier. It has come with an adaptor which says O6 on it. According to the packaging O6 fits olympus cameras and i need an N10 fitting? Anyone have any ideas or knowledge on this please?
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   Old Thread  #42 2 Apr 2019 at 2.50pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #41
I did start doing that, even bought the 'Nikon D5300 for Dummies' book off Amazon

To be honest though after a few hours I was bored ****less and once I'd found a self timer setting that worked I though I'd cracked it!

Sounds like it's a whole lot more complicated than I first thought
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   Old Thread  #41 2 Apr 2019 at 2.41pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #39
Whenever I get a new camera I work out how it all works by reading the instructions then go on a mad one testing it. Set it all up in a room in which you have a bit of space and a semi-interesting background and try out all the settings, the intervalometer, different lenses/focal lengths etc. Turn the lights out and try it all out with any external light source you might have. Take shots at different distances from the backdrop. Play with any presets. P*ss about with the focus settings. Really get to know it all like the back of your jim dandy.
It's a bit of a ball ache but so worth it - there is nothing more frustrating than trying to figure it all out on the bank under a head torch with no manual to refer to.
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   Old Thread  #40 2 Apr 2019 at 2.18pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #39
Sadly, live view does not work with the built in interval timer.
Hence the need for an intervalometer mate, if that's how you want to do it
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   Old Thread  #39 2 Apr 2019 at 1.49pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #37
That's where I got lost.

The camera has a built in Intervalometer so hopefully the screen should stay on if I can work out how to use it?

To be honest I got as far as the self timer bit in the manual and assumed that was all I needed, didn't realist there was a difference.

Looks like I've got a bit of reading to do

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   Old Thread  #38 2 Apr 2019 at 1.42pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #36
Cheers mate, will have a look when I get home from work.
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   Old Thread  #37 2 Apr 2019 at 1.19pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #36
Have a read through the manual buddy.

The only way to keep live view on during photos is with an intervalometer.
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   Old Thread  #36 2 Apr 2019 at 1.01pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #35
I should probably read the instructions I guess

Might be a good idea dude

p.s. you have a switch on your lens: A/M. This is where you change from auto to manual focusing.
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   Old Thread  #35 2 Apr 2019 at 1.00pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #32
Cheers. Just looked and you're right, I have been using the self timer.

No idea how to use the interval timer though? Didn't realise there was a seperate setting tbh!
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   Old Thread  #34 2 Apr 2019 at 12.58pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #31
Thanks, makes a bit of sense.

Auto focus depends on the lens doesn't it? I've just got the bog standard one that came with it, no idea if that's capable of doing it or not?!

Are you saying that if I can find somewhere in the menu to set the focus mode to AF-S then the screen will stay on between shots?

I should probably read the instructions I guess
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   Old Thread  #33 2 Apr 2019 at 12.31pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #32
Hopefully it's a simple case of the wrong mode!
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   Old Thread  #32 2 Apr 2019 at 12.30pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #30
Specs for the D5300 say it has a self timer and an interval timer. Sounds like you're using the self timer?
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   Old Thread  #31 2 Apr 2019 at 12.21pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #30
You need to make sure focus mode is AF-S, this will re focus every shot.

You can only use live view with an intervalometer. If you don't want the remote, set the screen to give you a two second review of each photo - between shots, then you could adjust accordingly for the next timer shot.
EDIT: make sure your lens is on AF mode not MF.
Hope this helps / makes sense!?
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   Old Thread  #30 2 Apr 2019 at 11.43am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #14
I've got a Nikon D5300 and have only ever used it with the built in timer.

I can set it to take 9 shots at 3 second intervals with a 20 second delay before the first shot, however:

It only appears to focus before it takes the first shot (and at that stage I'm not in the frame)
The flip round screen only stays on until the first shot has been taken, then it goes off.

It could be that I'm doing something wrong (not had it long) but what I really want it to do is re-focus after every shot and for the screen to stay on so I know I'm in the frame.

Does anyone know if that's possible with just the camera itself or do I need to buy an intervalometer as well?
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   Old Thread  #29 2 Apr 2019 at 11.32am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #28
Haha sorry.
Yeah I have a fixed central focus point, and yes you can frame beforehand, but being able to see the focus point while shooting ensures I get the fish in the focus point every time, not to high, not to low etc. I just use a single focus point in the centre. It works for me

EDIT: Not sure why I said big focus point, I meant a central focus point
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   Old Thread  #28 2 Apr 2019 at 9.36am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #26
You've lost me there dude. Focus area/focus point is not influenced by the intervalometer, that is due to camera set-up. Can you not frame in live view then switch out of live view to take the shots?
All the intervalometer does is actuate the shutter. It has no influence on the quality of the shots.

I'm a Canon man so need an external intervalometer. I tend to do trial shots holding a bag or whatever I have lying around prior to getting the kipper out. Get them spot on before committing. Works a treat and obviously minimises stress on the fish.
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   Old Thread  #27 2 Apr 2019 at 9.21am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #22
To be fair a lot of it is just personal preference. I also tried the inbuilt on my 5200 and didn't get on with it. It didn't always work right with focusing issues and the live view problem as well.

I just find it a lot easier to have the remote to hand as and when you've gotta hit play and make changes if needed. On the camera you've gotta get up and leave the fish each time you need to do anything with the inbuilt one. Add to that when your hands are wet etc.
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   Old Thread  #26 2 Apr 2019 at 9.04am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #24
My reasoning, minimal fuss and worry. The built in intervalometer doesn't work with live view.

I get the shots setup beforehand etc, but with the interval remote, I can frame the shots in live view and adjust on the fly if required. Can ensure the fish is hitting the focus point. For the sake of about £12 I'd rather do it that way.
It's what I'm used to.

For the record, I did use the in built timer when I first got the camera, and I'll admit I got lucky with my shots. Most had focused on me not the fish - but 2 of them were bang on. So as I said before Live view, a Big focus point and a remote work best for me. Just takes any of the doubt & worry out of it.
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   Old Thread  #25 2 Apr 2019 at 8.26am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #24
I could be wrong bud, I'm sure someone will clarify if that's the case.
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   Old Thread  #24 2 Apr 2019 at 8.24am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #23
Thatís the opinion I was of Yonny mate. My internal one refocuses between each shot and does everything I want it to. I was just intrigued as a few people below that have the internal option have a clear preference for external ones.
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   Old Thread  #23 2 Apr 2019 at 7.50am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #22
A lot of cameras don't have internal intervalometer, rather they just have a self timer.
Only difference is the self timer focuses once then reels off a bunch of shots at that setting where as an intervalometer performs an external actuation of the shutter so it focuses for each individual shot (so you could change your position/distance from the camera for each shot and it'll refocus to suit).
If the Nikons have internal intervalometer and not just self timer then you'll likely see no difference buddy, all it does is perform the actuation at set intervals.
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   Old Thread  #22 1 Apr 2019 at 10.21pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #21
Interested as to what benefits an external intervalometer gives over the internal one guys? Iíve never considered anything there than the internal one but if there is good reason I will look into it.
As you say they donít work with live view but Iíve never found it an issue. Get it set up properly before hand, flip the screen around and pout.

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   Old Thread  #21 1 Apr 2019 at 9.42am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #20
I found the same. The on board didnít work all that well. For the sakes of £15, it saves messing around.

To OP, make sure you get one thatís compatible with your camera. Some of them you need to get an adaptor cable seperately.
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   Old Thread  #20 1 Apr 2019 at 9.20am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #11
I have the 5300 with a 35mm lens as well. Agreed, the internal timer isn't quite good enough. It doesn't work with live view, so I got the external remote as well. That coupled with a fast SD card means I can take a shot every 4 seconds and that includes a re focus.
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   Old Thread  #19 1 Apr 2019 at 9.15am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #6
You wont go far wrong if you get a flip screen DSLR. People are generally a Nikon or a Canon guy (usually depending on what you start with). As Vinnie has said I wouldn't get too hung up on a built in intervalometer as you can pick up the plug in ones for around £15 online and they are very easy to use and small enough to fit in your camera bag. With your budget look for a deal that includes a 50mm (canon) or 35mm (nikon) prime lens.
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   Old Thread  #18 31 Mar 2019 at 6.45pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
Yeah same here with my d3300 just lean rm light up against the tripod. Seems to do the job
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   Old Thread  #17 31 Mar 2019 at 6.30pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #16
Yes Nikon have a setting for AF-C, My current camera is a D7200 and have used other Nikon's previously and just shine a small torch at myself so auto focus has something to focus on. I have not had any issues using the camera this way at night
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   Old Thread  #16 31 Mar 2019 at 4.58pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #15
Does that work with a nikon at night?

Not had that problem myself, I have an olympus that focuses between shots fine
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   Old Thread  #15 31 Mar 2019 at 4.50pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #14
If you set your camera to AF-C autofocus continuous it will keep focused as you move.
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   Old Thread  #14 31 Mar 2019 at 4.44pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #13
Don't some models only focus at the start of the sequence when using the built in interval timer? I seem to remember a few threads along those lines.

Panasonic g series are a good first step, along with the 25mm f1. 7 lens, perfect for catch shots
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   Old Thread  #13 31 Mar 2019 at 11.33am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #12
I can only really recommend Nikonís as that what Iíve always had. With your budget Iíd say, rather than getting a new d5300 it would be much better to have a look second hand for a 5300 or a 5200 or even a 5100 and use the spare money for a decent lense. There will be very limited gained by getting the newer model but having the extra cash leftover for a 35mm prime will transform a decent trophy shot into a brilliant trophy shot.
I have a d5100 that I picked up really cheap second hand and see no point in upgrading the body until I can afford a full frame.

Intervalometers are incredibly helpful. I am amazed at how many people with Nikonís are buying them separately though... the d5100, d5200 & d5300 all have them built in to the shooting options in the menu.
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   Old Thread  #12 31 Mar 2019 at 10.47am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
just gone through the camera selection process myself...difference being i didnt want a dslr for space restrictions...i too wanted a intervalometer and having spoken in depth to canon, yonny on here and various searches and reviews ive settled on the canon g1x mkii.
this takes an intervalometer, has a very big 1.5" sensor,great in low light conditions,wifi to connect direct to my phone.
these are £499 in the shops still,even though the mkiii is out.. i manged to pick one up new off ebay for £270.
all i want is decent self takes and this seem to fit the bill perfectly.
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   Old Thread  #11 31 Mar 2019 at 9.30am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #9
Yeah thatís not a bad set up, itís what iv got. It has a built in intervelometer but itís a bit more restrictive then the external one which is the route I went down.
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   Old Thread  #10 31 Mar 2019 at 9.17am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #9
Iíve recently changed the way I do self takes to get rid of the need to carry a tripod. Once Iíve set up rods and camp, I place the unhooking mat where I want my self take. I lay my landing net handle on the edge of the mat to use as a fixed distance marker and then screw in a universal excavator at the other end. This way I know the cameras in the same place every time. I bought one of the heavy duty Gardner camera bankstick adaptors that allows tilt and pan which I use on an old 15Ē prolight bankstick. The beauty of this is the bank stick just drops straight into the excavator when needed so Iím set up in seconds. When Iím not doing a self take the excavator stays in the ground but the camera and bankstick are left inside the bivvy.

I use an old Panasonic g series camera with a flip screen and following advice on here I recently ditched my bulb release and bought an intervalometer which is far easier.
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   Old Thread  #9 31 Mar 2019 at 8.45am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #7
I can get the d5300, intervalometer, remote and tripod new for about £400 from the prices Iíve seen
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   Old Thread  #8 31 Mar 2019 at 8.06am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
I have the d5300 and 35mm lense....its a great set up and would recommend it to anyone. Can get great results and the flip screen is great for self takes (as is any flip screen I guess)
I'd say a tripod and intervalometer are essential for a decent self take. I set mine to a 10 second delay to be able to get the fish up, then takes 5 shots with a 3 second gap so the camera can refocus after every shot.

Works for me but no doubt others have different ways.
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   Old Thread  #7 31 Mar 2019 at 2.25am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #6
For me, phones donít cut it, theyíll never produce a photo as well as a DSLR size sensor. I see trophy shots as more than just selfies. Some people donít. Why put all that time and effort into catching that one special fish, but end up with a grainy crap photo that ruins the memory of the capture.

IMO the cameras already mentioned will do exactly what you want. If you go down the good condition used route youíll get a decent full self take setup for £400. Letís be honest, for a fishing camera itíll get damp and covered in grit, I wouldnít want to spend £500 on a body for it to be buggered up.

All this is my opinion though, Iím sure others may have other suggestions.
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   Old Thread  #6 31 Mar 2019 at 0.25am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #4
So an intervalomter sounds like the way to go then. Everyone loves a slap in the face shot which i imagine is more difficult to get with a remote.

So going down that route, what cameras are recomended at my price range £300 - £400. Want a decent camera so i can do scenic shots etc aswell and mess about/learn long exposure stuff etc
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   Old Thread  #5 31 Mar 2019 at 0.19am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #4
It depends whether you actually want to spend a decent amount of money on something that your only going to take selfies with, the best thing to do if you want to save abit of money and not have loads of extra kit is to buy a small Bluetooth remote and connect it up to your phone on a tripod. Although your phone will need a good camera on it, that's what I do and its so much easier than having to worry about another piece of kit.
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   Old Thread  #4 30 Mar 2019 at 11.39pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #3
Define better. A remote is just a shutter release button, interval timers offer more functionality. I have both and donít use the remote. Your right the intervaolemeter allows you to do long exposure stuff etc as well. Remotes are OK but youíve got to hold it, hold the fish and press the button at the same time. Iíve got a wired intervalometer. the cable is long enough that it sits infront of the mat which helps to keep the camera at the same distance each time. Set it to take 99 shots, press play and your good to go. 10 or 15 shots of each side and delete what you donít want.
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   Old Thread  #3 30 Mar 2019 at 11.24pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #2
Is an intervalometer better than a remote though? Opens up a lot more camera options if a remote isnt needed
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   Old Thread  #2 30 Mar 2019 at 11.11pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
If your not worried about brand new, eBay is a good place to look. It may take a few weeks to find a suitable one but mint used bodies will come up. I got hold of a mint D5200 for £150. Add to that a new 35mm for around £140 and youíve got a superb self take setup.

Canon do similar versions in that price range and age like the 600D, 650D, 700D. The cheaper prime for Canon though are 50mm which can be tight in small swims. A superb lens (nifty 50) and very popular. I went with Nikon 35mm though and very happy with it.

Mirriorless is an option, youíll be lucky to find equvilent specs as above for the same money. Could be wrong with that though.

An intervalometer is an absolute must for self take shots IMO. On board timers just donít cut it. Intervalometers half press and focus the camera before each photo. The best £15 youíll spend.

Spend the most your happy to on a tripod. People will argue that one for a tenna will do the job. Correct to a degree but their not always that sturdy and fall apart after 6 months. £30 or so on amazon, youíll find something reasonable.

Hope this helps.
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   Old Thread  #1 30 Mar 2019 at 10.48pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
I want to get a new camera, rather than using my phone. Need to be able to do self takes.

With my very limited knowledge of caneras, i have arrived at the Nikon d5300, because of the remote and flip screen and some reviews on here. They seem to vary in price dependant on where they are from but from memory £320 is the cheapest i can find.

Should i just go for that camera or are there better options for me? i know what intervalometers do but are they a better option than a remote? If so what cameras are decent for use with one?
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