|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #164
So 5 months in and the pond is now settling down, or I am 
Water parameters are good and all appears well. The clarity's good and when looking at video the ayirstone stream is 3.5 metres away so I think all is good. Babies are thriving but we will see what survives the winter and have a sort out in spring, all fish packing on weight for winter ahead!
The quality of video has to take into account it was an iPhone in a sandwich bag bear with it, it does get better
https://youtu.be/yldDX8YSLS0
First go at publishing video so hope this works
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #161
Nice, I would love a pond like that
There would be a bit of quality fish breeding and stocking going on 
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #163
Pictures taken from video made by iPhone in a sandwich bag, I'm high-tech i am
All fish thriving, touch wood, piling on the weight for winter its slightly out of perspective as the fry range from 1" to 2". Filmed at a feeding so all shoaled up together. There are still about 100 fry ongoing and will need sorting out before winter or will winter sort this out for me?
If anyone wants some common, mirror or ghosty fry let me know it means you turning up with landing net and see what we can get out
Winter Tickets are not available for the unknown Kent 50
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #128
Literally perfect and stunning 
|
|
| | | Frenzy | | Posts: 11403 |  | | [ MODERATOR ] | |
|
In reply to Post #161
nice otter fence mate
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #153
Here you go almost finished, Mrs now wants an another Koi pond with window a monster has been created,
mavis aka big bird
eggs 2 days after introducing fish
6 weeks later, goldies, carpies, Koi or mongrels?
we have about 200 babies so don't think a couple sneaked in with plants
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #140
Have had visits from heron's over the years and early on I think they had some fish. Usually now the local seagulls make such a racket when one appears that it alerts you to it being there, sometimes they even see it off 'Battle Of Britain' style have witnessed this over my house when a heron was flying overhead, have never seen the heron since
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #153
Can't really tell from the photo but I hope that mesh will keep an otter out. Be a shame to lose that nice fish.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #157
No idea how it works mate, I can see them on my phone
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #156
not happening on my airbook though
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #155
They do work chap, just click and open
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #153
I thought pictures would work :( Doh
Can anyone put them up or can i watts app them to someone to add please
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #153
Very nice chap
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #152
Here you go almost finished, Mrs now wants an another Koi pond with window a monster has been created,
[img]https://i.imgur.com/yfxHQ43.jpg[/img]
mavis aka big bird
[img]https://i.imgur.com/twkdmQa.jpg[/img]
eggs 2 days after introducing fish
[img]https://i.imgur.com/rfYhk0z.jpg[/img]
6 weeks later, goldies, carpies, Koi or mongrels?
[img]https://i.imgur.com/WJdrl1I.jpg[/img]
we have about 200 babies so don't think a couple sneaked in with plants
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #151
Am putting together some before and after pictures at the mo and a new patio is being laid beginning of june so will post once its completish
putting filter etc together today and laying the beach area so removed a lot of mud and added a tonne of shingle and some rocks
Mrs loves it already and had her lunch by it today i think she's hooked and really enjoying it and watching the transformation
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #149
Yep have dug with digger and barrowed to front of house now waiting for grabber as it didn't turn up yesterday, almost 2/3rd full of water. It started Tuesday at 8am and with friends,it was hard work, but it should be full for the weekend and ready for fishing on a winter ticket
The tiding up will probably take longer 
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #148
Blimey, you managed to get all that done in 1 day?
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #147
That was quick work. Did you use a digger?
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #146
It has gone deeper due to levelling out of the bottom its lined and is now filling slowly with water
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #145
Grab lorry is a much better idea. Also I would send the wife out to get supplies and then go deeper than 1m. If she spots the error tell her some old b****cks like you had to dig out sand stone, tree roots or the like.
By the way less than 1m and it could freeze solid during a bad winter and you would lose all the fish, newts, frogs etc.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #144
I had already arranged a grab lorry which is coming today He was adamant that it would go in one skip, and even showing him that removing solid 1 metre chunks and stacking them side by side he said it would compact  He is from the Dianne Abbot school of Maths 
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #136
Sorry mate but there’s no way that will fit in one skip. Also when you dig up the earth it takes up almost double the volume as it’s no longer compacted. You would be looking at several 6 yard skips. The cheapest way by far is to go with a grab lorry, it’ll save you a lot of money.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #142
Get joininng Chanel the Mrsh has suggested a faux bridge which will cover the Chanel and may make it appear wider😀
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #138
That's a shame as you will have to heron proof it some way at that depth, and whatever you do it's an eyesore
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #136
If it a 6m3 skip I think your mates maths is lacking as that 26m3 what your digging out and thats compacted
unless the deepest part is 1m and slooping sides but I would be amazed if that goes into a 6m skip
|
|
|
|
Have had visits from heron's over the years and early on I think they had some fish. Usually now the local seagulls make such a racket when one appears that it alerts you to it being there, sometimes they even see it off 'Battle Of Britain' style
Herons are very sensitive and only have to see you move or hear the back door open (or the dog charging towards them) and they scarper, . Apart from one particular one that was about 4' tall, gnarly looking thing that let me get within about 3 feet of it before it ****ed off, that was a bit spooky.
The ponds about 4' deep in the middle and with all the lilies the fish have plenty of hiding places. I can usually tell if we've had a visit though while we've been out as the fish are nowhere to be seen and need coaxing back out from cover with some food.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #137
Unfortunately yes as the Mrs wouldn't go for any deeper as its her pond and its near the house, but if it goes well she has agreed for another extension to be dug at 5 feet deep next to it and then joined via a 2 foot channel basically doubling the surface area size . the garden is about half an acre in size so will accept the extension the joining channel will be protected by mesh to stop herons
So winner winner chicken dinner 
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #136
Still sticking to only 1m deep then?
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #128
Another for the natural look. i admit Koi in a Koi pond look stunning but i am hoping for a more biodiverse pond with frogs,toads, etc.....
The hole has been started today and my mate was sure that 6.5m x 4m x1m would fit into 1 skip
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #133
Put yourself a string of old line around, 3 rows spaced about 5 inches apart and that stops them
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #128
That's really nice. I have two ponds and know what you mean about the upkeep. Last winter I drained the smaller one and got out 30 wheelbarrows full of crap off the bottom, despite a filter system and pond skimmer, it's in the shade of a big tree which means it gets lots of fallen leaves etc and even the best filtration can't keep it at bay.
By the way if the pond is big/deep enough herons shouldn't be too much of a problem. We have one visit frequently and whilst he takes fish they certainly reproduce quickly enough that he has a never ending supply.
I have a picture of a kingfisher fishing from the bridge on my pond, I'm quite proud about that.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #128
Looks fantastic, well done, but how do you keep the herons away and stop them eating all the fish. I have a small pond and have to keep it covered or I would lose the lot to herons.
Cheers
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #128
Very good work on that
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #128
Very nice
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #124
I went with the 'natural look, much prefer it to the 'Koi Tank' that some people like, does take a bit of upkeep though, good job I own several pairs of waders
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #126
Marginal shelf’s are great for herons to wade in. Be wary
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #124
If you stock small sturgeon be careful not to have weed in the pond as they have no reverse gear they swim into it and cannot get back out they do not how the explosion of power when small to push on through, the little spikes that grow along the lateral line gets them all rattled up.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #124
Watch out for otters.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #123
Am swerving goldfish as per previous posts when talking about fish i am not going to overload the pond as its been sold to the Mrs as a wildlife feature and not a match lake
I am going for a maximum of 6 ghosties, a few other carp and now some small cheapish koi, some tench and possibly a couple of sturgeon. All a small size to start with and with lots of hiding places so hopefully they will feel comfortable to parade regularly.
it is not going to bottom drained, but a pump and external filter and the I am hoping in time the pond will survive on its own with minimal feeding from me and will be left to grow with minimal input in controlling vegetation. i am leaning towards a natural enviroment and not a pedicured Koi pond.
I am now looking for one of those small Fox shop model bivvies, I had one a few years ago but would like another and will build a small pod, rods etc..... I know its tacky but each to their own
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #122
I'd personally stay away from goldfish in a pond that size as the population will be hard to control once they start breeding.
Are you putting in a bottom drain? If so that'll take care of any bottom debris. You'll need a good filter system for that size pond stocked with carp.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #121
Thanks for the replies will discuss with Mrs about going deeper 😀 ohh err. My mates doing the digger so will discuss it with him as well 😀
Will think about some very small koi as opposed to goldfish for the colour splash 😀
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #119
Go a little deeper than that if you have a digger. Also you could put a couple of koi in, they can be bought small very cheaply and it's nice to watch them grow on. Also be careful of stocking too many goldfish. They can breed like wildfire
|
|
|
|
I am just in the process of starting our pond its going be 8m by 4m by 1m, all at ground level and below. The digger is arriving tuesday and skips are on standby its going to have a beach area at one end for wildife and a marginal shelf all around the others.
i have run cable for pump and UV and electrician connecting the plugs and extender on Friday.
Koi's are not an option due to cost and time, etc.. i am just thinking of some ghosties, mirror, common carp and some goldfish for colour. Any ideas for bottom feeders to tidy some detritus up?
Just been told by neighbour a heron cleared out his small pond at weekend so will now put some line around the edges on poles and a plastic heron, any other ideas?
Any advice gratefully received.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #117
Cheers lads, spot on
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #115
https://www.tuffxglass.co.uk/
These people are top notch and supply loads of pond windows
Mine is 1075x630 21.5mm toughened/laminated/polished edges. Cost, £144 delivered.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #114
Looking to add a glass screen to my pond. 8x4x3.5 is the size of the pond and the screen would be 500x500 supported both sides and at the base. Any help on thickness needed or suppliers would be great
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #112
Excellent advise. If you’re on a bit of a budget then go for a second hand easy pod or nexus 200. There’s no point in buying a new one as there’s nothing to go wrong on them. You will probably be able to pick one up of eBay if you’re lucky.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #112
yeah nexus easy pod a good uv filter and a good air pump should do most ponds,,,Other option is multi chamber unit uv
filter first going to a vortex then filter brushes then jap matting and biological filter that's how i made mine over 8 yrs ago and always got good healthy clear water........Having clear water in a pond doesn't mean you have got healthy water like some people think....
|
|
|
|
|
For filtration I'd forget pressure or box filters - both useless for a koi or large pond. A nexus/easy filter, large multibay or drum and moving bed if money allows are the way to go.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #106
Have a look at the Oase Filtoclear. Very good filters if maintained properly. That said they are not designed for ponds that are heavily loaded with fish, particularly carp/koi.
Don’t know how I missed this thread. I worked for a company that specialised in ponds until a few weeks ago.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #109
There’s only 3 cost effective safe ways to build an in/out of the ground (1m max)
Timber sleepers laid flat
7n blocks laid flat
Hollow blocks filled with concrete
I speak from experience having built one in hollows which was like a bomb shelter and my latest which was built in trench blocks and that has failed and needs an expensive rebuild.
Don’t bother rendering the inside, insulate with Celotex or polyurethane and fibreglass, it should last forever.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #108
Could i sink a filter box and then run a return pump to deal with the level difference?
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #106
My pond is now coming up to 2.5 years old. Can't remember the size but it is just under 5000L of water (which is not huge) and now has a mixture of fish in it (2x Carp, 2x Ghosts, 5 or 6 Gold fish, 1x Tench ,1x Sturgeon and a small Grass carp although he is on the 'missing list' at the moment). I started out with a large pressurised filter with built in UV light under my decking with a hatch for cleaning etc. I cleaned it every 1-2 weeks depending on the time of year as per the instructions.
First 12 months all was good, but last year I struggled to keep the water quality under control (I tested weekly) and then lost the Barbel and a Tench 
I added a large 4 stage filter box with gravity return last summer and the water is crystal clear plus the weekly water tests are now good. I have kept the pressurised filter for now as that provides the UV light
My pump packed up in November/December and was a couple of months out of warranty so every 6 months I seem to spend money on it but with each step it gets better (the new pump has a 5 year warranty) so don't mind that too much 
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #105
Does anyone use a pressurised filter on thier pond? I want to hide a filter under a hatch in my deck and this seems like the best option. Pond is 8x4x4 any advice would be appreciated
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #104
A lot of larger ponds are now lined in fibreglass
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #103
Granted It is a fair bit of dollar if you want a reasonable size a quick way of setting up a pond and I suppose the beauty of it is if you move so can the pond.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #86
Ever thought about a Denby Koi pond Josh, they make them to suit the size you want you can get a viewing window put in the side if you like and they will fit the bottom drain filter to it might be an option, their FB page shows some after delivery that the clients have finished with whatever their choice of cladding, they will even come and fiberglass one if you build it.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #99
G4 pond paint?? Dont use carpet or underlay it could rot and would nulify any warranty on liners. As said get the proper stuff. Each material of pond building has its pros and cons depends what your happy using.
|
|
|
|
Only just seen this thread! lol
I build a pond 9 years ago and went through all the same thoughts you have mate.
If you're building a koi pond from scratch you really do want a bottom drain (aerated ideally), gravity fed filtration.
Having pump fed filtration puts your filters on the back foot straight away as any waste is chopped into tiny little bits before it gets to the filter making the filters job much much harder.
Go 5ft deep if you can and as said below get the biggest filter you can.
I was initially going for a box weld liner as mine's a regular shape but decided on fibreglassing in the end. Cost about twice the amount of the liner but I'd got to that stage where I'd spent much more than I'd thought and sod it, I'm only doing it once! lol
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #98
Can't remember the name of it mate, there's some left though so when I go round there next I will have a look
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #96
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #93
I’d definitely look at getting a bottom drain it makes cleaning much easier. Also if you’re doing a rectangular pond have a look at box weld liners which are made to the shape of your pond so no messy folds in the corners. The other option is to get it professionally fibreglass lined but once you go down this route you’ll need to up your budget a bit.
The extreme koi forum has a pond build section and you can get some good ideas here. If you join you can get some excellent advice too..
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #93
Yeah definitely concrete the cavity. You could think about using the hollw blocks and filling the cavitys of those too
That sealer is decent stuff, it's what I did that waterfall I showed you with, think they do a coloured version too not just the clear
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #86
I would have a chat with Fawcetts liners, they have everything you could need liner wise. I have their reservoir liner in my pond and it's been there for 15 years with no issues, I think the one I had was guaranteed for 40 years or something.
https://www.fawcettsliners.co.uk/
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #91
basically - bit more work to install...
but....
all the **** ends up on the bottom of the pond and then into the filter - which is what you want - let the bacteria go to work...
Also - the pump is located at the end of the filter - so easy to maintain etc.
don't forget a properly spec'd UV tube - will help polish and keep the water clear...
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #90
Thankfully it's not my liner so I won't be doing the cutting! From what I've seen it will be simple enough so all good. They do look a good idea, but I've never seen one in the flesh to see just how it works,but it sounds like they are the best idea for sure
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #89
easy - just need the confidence to cut a hole in your liner....
they have a bolt on flange - which you remove and then lay the liner over the top with a suitable sealant / adhesive and then bolt the flange back on - then cut the hole....
loads of info / videos on this on youtube which will help
best set up by far IMO - have a slight fall into the drain so all the **** and debris will eventually make its way in there and through the filter....job done.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #88
How are those bottom drains to fit chap? I've been roped into helping fit one in the not to distant future and I've never done or even seen one before
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #86
you can get decent underlay materials these days specifically designed for pond liners..
I'd go with a bottom drain setup with a gravity fed system.
Them carp are gonner eat a lot and make a mess.....
did this on my last pond and its the best setup by far....
bit more work involved as you'll have to dig in the filter to sit level with water level etc.
much better than "in pump" setup IMO.
My pond was 12ft x 9ft x 5ft deep , dug in about 6ft with the digger , concrete base installed with bottom drain pipework fitted , blocked up to approx. 1ft above ground and back filled with concrete all round.
Underlayed and linered and never had a problem.
One tip - get the best / biggest filtration system you can afford.
Remember - you can only under-filter but cannot over-filter...
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #86
Might be worth forming it from concrete rather than blocks mate, be way stronger obviously. As for lining, carpet underlay is a good shout, with some sand underneath it
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #82
Oxygen wont be an issue this time of year due to the temp, as suggested the fish acting strange does sound like a health problem probably parasitic. Most parasite activity will slow down but not as much as koi pro rata if you get what i mean. Thats why health problems can be worse spring time as the fish arent up to full strength. The issue you can have is treatment a lot wont work in colder weather, in fact an fmg based treament the formalin can turn toxic. A potassium treatment might be a good shout but i would ring a company called NT labs they specialize in treatment and are normally helpful. Again as suggested the only way to tell if there is a parasite problem are microscopic scrapes of the fish slime. If you have a local koi supplier they might help with this, dont take the fish to them in a bucket though as i used to see all the time!!! Check for any blood vessels on the surface of the fish this is a claasic sign of parasites/stress.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #83
Turnover rates really depend on what type of filter you're using. These days with modern ceramic media in a "shower" situation, it's not unusual to turn a pond over every 30 minutes. My shower can run at 30k l/h, it's set at around 20k l/h whereas my K1 chamber is running around 15k l/h. All my inlet pipework it 4" and return pipework is 2".
Pipework size/bends/restrictions also play a part on how fast you can pump the water around your system.
An old multibay type system wouldn't be able to handle a huge flowrate, neither would a Nexus, they just weren't designed to do that.
Modern pumps are for more powerful and efficient than they were 10/20 years ago. Back then we used to use central heating circulation pumps. These days, you can pick up a variable speed Jabeo for around £120 that can comfortable pump 20k l/h, possibly more.
A budget drum filter is around £950 and a lot of people are changing now from sieves/beads to drum/shower as it pretty much automates a lot of the cleaning process along with taking all the crap out down to 70 microns (ish). The waste gets flushed down the drain or over the garden which means i'sl out of the system straight away rather than sitting in brushes/filter wool/sponges etc until it's manually cleaned out.
No pond is the same, you have to find the right system for your needs and budget.
If I had a tenner for every time someone told me "I've got this pressure/black box filter and my water is rubbish on my koi pond" I'd be a wealthy man
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #82
Twice an hour is spot on mate
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #80
The fish love playing in the flow. In both tanks of this years fry that are growing on, when a water change is carried out, the fish literally queue up in the flow from the water inlet & are porpoising over each other like salmon trying to climb a weir pool! These are fish that are less than 8 months old! Even the last batch of fry in another tank (6 months) sit in the return pipe flow from the filtration even though it s no more oxygenated than the actual water in the tank as the pipe is below the waterline. Oxygenation in the pond this time of year shouldn't be an issue unless it is frozen over as colder water holds a lot more dissolved oxygen than warm water.
Water turnover of 4 times an hour is extremely high! Once every 2-4 hours is the recommended level for optimal filtration (especially if you are using UV clarifiers as if the water goes past them too quickly, then it is not affected by the UV light. The longer the water is in contact with the biological medium in the filters the better the filtration will actually be as the bacteria has more time to perform the nitrogen cycle.
|
|
|
|
At the moment, all my Golden Orfe are usually just under the surface swimming about even when there is a bit of ice on the water. The carp and goldfish are all down on the bottom tucked away next to or in the rushes and the rudd sat midwater.
As for water temperatures, I think it is consistent almost throughout the pond as I have a large pump and filter system and the whole ponds water in theory is recycled 4 times an hour so is consistently moving. If the Golden Orfe are not on the surface then they are holding position close to the bottom swimming against the flow of the water from the inlet. On occasions they are joined by the carp.I can tell where the fish have spent the night and if they have been feeding by the droppings left on the bottom. Oxygen should not be an issue as I also have an aerator as well working.
The largest carp on occasions likes to try and swim up the flow of water from the inlet, I do not know why but I just think its there exploratory instincts trying to find out where the water is coming from. I actually had to remove the inlet pipe further into the pond and away from the edge as the large carp would keep trying to swim up the flow of water and could get very determined at times and get a good lick of speed up and would not be far from flying out of the pond.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #78
I can recommend joining “extreme koi”, it’s a pretty decent and well run forum.
Also, if you haven’t seen then already, Kev”s “Koi Nerding” videos are a good watch. I know he’s at the high end of the koi hobby so most of us mere mortals who run drums have a similar setup just scaled down.
I think jnhes got at least 2 drums and a few flowfriemd pumps. His setup is amazing and the fish are something else too.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #77
Winter & cold water will be why most are laying on bottom in an almost dormant state.
Net the one that is not acting right out & do a skin scrape & check gills at same time for flukes or anything else.
I have koi in tanks in the house that are going barmy at the moment even though it is cold, as well as a raised pond of Leney descendents which are still feeding like crazy, yet in the raised pond adjoined to the one with the Leney's in (same depth just a little longer & separated by an 6" sleeper wall) which has 25 x 8-12" Karashigoi & Chagoi Tosai in it, the fish are not moving at all (Jap blood line but spawned in England), in the same way all of the fish in my 14500 litre pond are all laying dormant (few suffering from Carp Pox but can't do much about that TBH)
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #68
To me they look likeKohaku ,noticed the prominent dorsal,the colours are nice and defined,my father was a founder member of the BKKS..
Spent a LOT of money my dad did,I'm not saying there is,or isn't but a few of his poor definition kois could be still in a 117 acre ressi,...who knows.. Lol..
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #73
Filter floss blocks very easily, where do you think the water will go when the outlet slows down?? Outside the filter box then onto the floor.
|
|
|
|
|
Buy a shedload of fine filter wool and place it in the last stage of the filter chamber. change/clean it it every time the filter pump rate slows and repeat until the water is crystal clear.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #71
Would make a cracking live bait
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #68
It looks more like the Savage Gear 4play Herring Liplure Koi lure. Did'nt think they made them that big!!!
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #68
Israeli I suspect
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #68
if you know anyone that wants to buy a new pond pump with fountain 2500 size receipt 1 july 18 tried for 1 hour but pond is 4ft deep shop would not change it or refund as it had been used
my 74 year old neighbor just had to buy a second pump anyone interest let me know £60
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #66
One of my mums neighbours ponds
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #64
I wouldn't worry too much, I put the eggs in my aquarium using a bit of lake water and topped up with water from the ibc. 20% water changes twice a day and they hatched 4 days after spawning. I slightly under estimated how many eggs I'd collected and I wasn't expecting so many to hatch so I think a huge amount of the fry will end up being put back in the lake. I've got a small stock pond but it's already got a hundred VS c1's from January & I'd imagine they'd eat all the fry.
I'm still doing two water changes a day and feeding liquifry twice a day. I've got an air powered sponge filter running in the aquarium and I really need to start picking out the odd dead fry & remnants of weed on the bottom but it's impossible with so many fry in there.
I might look at getting a fry cage for the ibc so I can monitor them a bit better and keep the pump & filter running without risk of them being sucked up.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #61
After being kept awake all night last week by the carp spawning at our place, I took a bucket of weed & eggs home & put them in an aquarium. I've now got about 4000 carp fry. I've got an ibc tank that's been set up & running for the last 3 months or so and intend to transfer the fry in a few weeks. You've seen some of the carp that these eggs came from, if I can get even 1% of them through to a couple of inches then I'll be proper chuffed.
I've started them off on liquifry & egg yolk but have got some daphnia ready for them to move on to.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #61
I have golden rudd in my ponds. They've bred really well too, one of the results of that is watching a kingfisher successfully catching one when diving from the bridge I built.
I agree with what others have put, even if you do nothing some of the fry will probably survive, if you take some of the weed out you might be able to get more though, and even cherry pick the better ones.
I drain my smaller, filtered pond every now and again and put most of the small fish into the bigger pond. I keep some of the prettier ones in the clear bond where I can see them easier.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #57
Your better off feeding the fry with a specific fry food. Most aquatic shops that sell aquarium fish should sell it. Its expensive for the amount you get but a little goes a long way.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #57
In my experience some will make it through, one of my ponds was very "clean" no plants just a small amount of gravel and I ended up with too many ghosties to shake a stick at.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #53
If they have been spawning in the weed, just pull some out and stick it in a bucket of water or tub. Check the weed first though and you should see the eggs if there is any on it. In just few days it will hatch and then feed them on hard boiled egg yoke crumbled up.
I cannot describe what the eggs look like apart from they are like very tiny glass balls, but if you google it and look at the images, you will find what to look for.
When I did it, I had thousands of fry from just a small bit of weed, but over the days they disappear, usually eaten by the faster growing ones. From the thousands, I ended up with just nine which I stocked my pond with and a friends.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #53
You can remove the eggs better by using a spawning brush or a mop. Er on the side of caution with treatments but maintenance will be fine. If you do get eggs a tank with an air driven filter is your best bet. Saying that if you leave them to their own device's you will get some amount of fry
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #49
I might put some chub in my ponds (could help keep the fry at bay), where did you order them from (if you don't mind me asking)?
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #49
I have a golden tench in my pond (more of a mottled yellow - like an over-ripe bananna).
He seems to hold his own against the koi and has grown well, he's about 16 inches now. He rushes up to feed on the surface with the koi and seems happy to barge them out of the way for food.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #46
Tench tend to get out competed for food. They generally only take sinking pellets which arent always the best regular food source for koi. Tench also dont like certain medications. Jurys out on barbel for me but i will agree on the chub.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #46
Every stillwater barbel I've ever seen has been quite skinny and pale. Wouldn't put them in myself. Couple of chub would be a good shout though
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #43
I have bought fish from Carp Co before and they were fine Josh, Sticklebacks and Gudgeon, never seen the Gudgeon since putting them in
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #43
I've kept most fish in ponds but I'd hesitate for a long while with barbel tbh. I think you'd be fighting an uphill battle there rather than enjoying it. And yes I know its possible but that does not make it right.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #40
If I knew how to post pictures would gladly put a pic up of my pond
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #39
Would like to see every bodies ponds.....need a dedicated thread I reckon
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #38
Good reading for pond owners -
https://www.pondexperts.ca/pond-advice-tips/ammonia-ponds-aquariums/
What are the Symptoms of Ammonia Stress?
The first signs of ammonia stress are often the behavior of the koi or goldfish. In ponds or aquariums with high ammonia levels, fish will often become less active and hang at the surface of the water gasping near waterfalls or filter returns.
If my fish appeared to be suffering from anything the first thing I'd do is check water quality for ammonia, nitrite and get a double carbon filter and put fresh good quality water into the pond, leave the hose on and just let the fresh clean water trickle in slowly to dilute any toxic ammonia/nitrite..... You may think it'll be alright after a week but the damage may already be done, your damaged fish may well die prematurely as a result of this damage. It may not this week or next month but the damage WILL kill the fish prematurely.
How Does Ammonia Affect Fish?
Even low levels of ammonia, below 0.25 ppm (parts per million), can suppress the immune system and make the fish more susceptible to bacterial and parasitic infections.
High levels of ammonia, 1.0 ppm or more, have a caustic effect on a fish’s gills with sudden and dramatics effects. Higher levels of ammonia will ‘burn’ the gills and actually cause swelling and even serious damage to the structure of the gills. Fish not only use their gills to breath, but also for waste excretion an osmoregulation (the balance of water and salts in the body). This drastically reduces the ability of the gills to function properly and also makes them more susceptible to infection. It only takes a few days of high ammonia levels to harm fish.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #37
Might be something else, do a water test for ammonia, nitrate and nitrite, as you have recently changed all your filter media, it might need time to mature to start working properly
|
|
|
|
My pond only has a simple filter on it (Laguna Filterfalls) and a 55w UV and stays pretty clear, only problem I have is once the fish start charging about during the day they kick all the silt up and it clouds up a bit. I have given up trying to hoover it out etc and now leave it 'au naturel', just clean the filter out now and again. I have a Laguna Max Flo 16500 pump.
|
|
|
|
sounds like you are not turning over the pond enough mate, you want at least to turn it over once an hour take a look at Hailea E series pumps, dont cost the earth and are great for the money
*Edit, you just did a huge water change and added a new filter you prob need some good bac too, aqua source do balls that you put in the filter, the liquid bac dont do anything as the bacteria dies quick in those bottles.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #31
Oh dear...….... have you actually plugged the UV in??
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #26
Bit of a bump for your thread Josh.
The weather down here (well Sussex anyway) has been pretty cold over the last week or so, my pond has gone from being slightly murky to crystal clear, how's yours doing?
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #27
Big money making scam barley straw for garden ponds. Different algaes need different forms of treatment either chemically or through filtration. A lot of treatments dye the water which is only temporary
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #27
Not for a garden pond..
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #26
Try some barley bales to in the water that helps
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #24
There are a few models where the water pipes under the media and then out of a top inlet. Most are what boycie explains. Pics will help a lot.
As regards to the algarem, I'm sure all that one is is a dye, all it does is inbibit any algae growth. If you want to treat blanket weed the only 2 that seem to work consistently are interpets pond balance or cloverleafs blanket answer. These treatments can be pond specific so if one doesnt the other should. Leave the pond as is and try the bottle test after 10 days or so.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #22
Is it a black box filter? The spray bar (pipe with holes in) should spray on to the foam. The water passes down through the foam into the bio media. There should then be a void under that and a return pipe that raises the filtered water back up through all the media and the exit point is back at the top.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #22
Give it a few days and look under the foams josh, you will be amazed what is in there. The fluval on the pond I look after is the same and its always very dirty water under the foams, but I've finally got the water crystal clear. I set the pond up just like Dan told me to and its sweet now
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #8
if thats the algae stuff i have used previously, what you are meant to do is treat it and as the algae starts to clump up, scoop it with a net, also either your u v light is not big enough for the pond or you just need to wait a few weeks for it to start to clear,my pond is 8ft x 8ft x 5ft deep don't know the gallons, i have an evolution aqua 55w coupled to an easy pod complete which has a 15w uv built in and it copes farely well with green water, i do depending how hard i feed the fish or if i go for full on growth feed, seem to get blanketweed, of course you could also try adding some plants hanging from the side in them basket type things, as they will hopefully out compete the algae, as long as your fish don't eat them first, also get some floating plants which will then reduce surface area thus reduce amount of light getting into the pond
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #19
They are a basic uv, bulbs themselves do differ.
|
|
|
|
|
You sure your uv bulb is working ok? Yamitsu kockney koi uv,s work well.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #17
Unfortunately natural back garden ponds and koi are not always a good mix. I can see your point as the particles in the water will reduce the efficiency of the uv but you dont want the algae dumped back in the pond it will add to the sediment.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #15
There's definitely two schools of though on the position of a uv. Putting it before any mechanical filtration reduces the efficiency of the bulb as it can't penetrate the water. Putting it after mechanical filtration means that the clumped algae isn't so efficiently removed. It all depends on the type of pond in my opinion.
On a koi only pond with no plants then I'd agree that putting it before is probably better but having seen Josh's pond I'd suggest putting it after would be better. His is more of a natural pond and is unlikely to achieve the type of crystal clear water you'd be hoping for in a standard koi pond.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #12
Just read some of the other posts now and yes a skimmer is a good idea. You now have to check your not pushing the water too fast, i dont have access to spec any more but oase uk are helpful. As regards to tap water a filter on the hose is always a good idea, a company called trade mark aquatics could help you out or evolution aqua. If anyone needs add an amount of tap water into the pond treat with a dechlorinating liquid for the whole volume of the pond not just the percentaged being changed.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #1
Check flow rates, a lot of systems that say rated for x amount are for lightly stocked ponds in the shade. For koi/carp you need to turn the pond over once an hour. If its oase filtoclear they are good but they are overrated as regards to what they can do. By having a couple of filters in line can slow the flow down so again its back to flow rates. The uv is better at the first stage, the idea is the uv plumps up the algae then the filter holds it all, yes you could get stones going through uv which might damage it but in reality no stones should be on the bottom of a pond. Regular hoovering of the pond helps this, a build up of silt/stones is one of the worst contributers to health problems. Regularly check the quartz sleeve it can get calcium deposits on and biofilm build ups, there delicate and expensive to replace. As said try to avoid cleaning with tap water, its commonly done and in truth most established ponds will handle it. Foams can be hosed if filthy. You've answered one of your own questions and back to flow rates a larger uv is not much help without the right amount of water pumped through it. One trick is fill an empty large plastic fizzy drinks bottle with the pond water and leave completely still for 24 hours, if it stays a consistent green from top to bottom the uvs not working properly if you get a green layer on the bottom the uv is working but the filters not trapping it so at least you could concentrate on one particular piece of equipment.
As regrards to the fish jumping yes as we all know carp do jump but in ponds it can be a sign of low oxygen. All koi/carp ponds must have an air pump not only does it help the fish but puts more oxygen into the filter bacteria.
One last thing, plants generally dont help they make more mess but they look nice.
Hope this helps a bit
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #1
Nutrients will be the issue, either from rotting "stuff" in the pond or introduced accidently via your tap water.
The Royal Horticultural Society, who know a few things about plants, have some very good advice.
https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?PID=162
Hope it helps.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #12
Well you're certainly not 'under pumped' then!
Re the skimmer, my advice is to buy the biggest you can get, or indeed make one, especially if you have overhanging trees etc so get a lot of floating leaves etc. I have the Oase Biosys Skimmer plus, which you build into the side to the pond, I previously had one of the surface skimmers but it was just too small and needed emptying far to often.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #8
Oase stuff is very good IMO. I have had Oase pumps for over 15 years and in fact the first problem I had was very recently when the pond skimmer pump failed so had to be replaced, I went for Oase again.
If you're looking for new kit try www.swelluk.com they are very helpful and gave me a great deal on a new pump.
Interesting what others are saying about the position of the UV as my main UV is before the filter system as it's an Oase Bitron system where the water goes through the UV first. I do have another UV on they way out as well though so I guess I've covered it both ways!
If your pump has foam in the housing then it will be a nightmare until the pond clears.
|
|
|
|
|
They say you should not but I never had a problem running a hose straight into pond. 10000L pond took 12hrs on full bore to clear the green and then turned it down and left on throughout summer. Obv its not good if youre on a meter.
|
|
|
|
Been a while since I had a pond. The slurry you removed from your pond will have been acting as a filter in itself so for the moment you don't have the same bacterial capacity you used to have, so your system is not what it was, you may experience different water quality until it settles down again, test every now and then.
The other is that you've copped for the worst possible weather bright sunny days and increased temps for weeks on end, the algae has really kicked off in the Mrs fish tank last 3 weeks.
If worried about the fish jumping out put a net over the pond temporarily.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #5
Just re-read your first post & you've put the UV between the old & new filters so not quite so bad. I'd still put it last in line though.
I wouldn't worry too much about the green water, I think it probably just needs time to settle & for everything to start working in harmony. The first month of any new setup is always the hardest as you've not got the different bacteria that convert ammonia and so forth. Give it some time before you go investing in new kit. You could run two pumps if your filter has two inputs, save you buying a new replacement.
|
|
|
|
Completely removing and cleaning a filter will kill all of the good bacteria that convert ammonia into nitrite and then nitrate, commonly referred to as the nitrogen cycle.
Ammonia and nitrite kill fish quickly.
To prevent this happening you should only wash out part of the filter material in pond water and leave the rest alone in pond water, do this as quick as possible to reduce loss of bacteria that live in the filter.
Until the filter is back to normal there will be ammonia and nitrite in the pond in high levels (small amounts will kill fish) . To combat this you'll need to keep the water quality as high as possible. Removing 10% and topping up with carbon filtered water regularly (chlorine and chloramine removed) you can get a double 10" filter and put carbon block filters in the housings to do tbis.
Get a water test kit and if you have fish dying do water changes daily. Much will depend on stocking density and amount of plants.
Using chemicals to neutralise chlorine and chloramine and dumping heavy metals in the pond is not a good idea.... best to remove it before it gets to the fish.. put one of these in a gas box outside to hide it.
https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Twin-10-Filter-Housing-Set-Two-Stage-Water-Filtration-System-3-4-Ports-/302289866262?nav=SEARCH
https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-Carbon-Block-Filter-Cartridges-for-RO-Reverse-Osmosis-Units-Housings-/251386686117?nav=SEARCH
A good idea is to have 2 pumps and only clean 1 at a time so you don't lose ammonia neutralizing bacteria at any time.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #1
Your UV wants to be after the mechanical and biological filtration. You're essentially pumping dirty water through the UV meaning the light can't penetrate. You're also running the risk of small stones etc being pumped into the UV which could damage the glass.
Although you've increased your filter's capacity your pump needs to be pushing the volume of your pond through every couple of hours too.
If you can adjust these things then I'd leave the whole system running for a week, adding a decent filter startup every day for 5 days to build the bacteria up.
|
|
|
|
Only ever clean your filters with the old pond water so no chlorine from tap water to kill the bacteria.
Also never use fresh tap water to refill pond for the same reason.
As stated, no good overfeeding fish when the filter bacteria have not sufficiently recolonised the filter medium.
To run a healthy pond ir tank you have to ensure you run a healthy biological filter first and foremost, then the fish will be fine.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #1
A few things off the top of my head......
I would suggest leaving the filter running for a couple of weeks more before worrying about it, this time of year it's really tough to get a gin clear pond as the algae is in a spring flush.
By cleaning out the filter you may have also removed all the good micro organisms that had built up, it will take time for them to build up again.
You might need to adjust the flow through the UV to make sure it's working efficiently.
Are you over feeding the fish? That can lead to green water too, don't feed more than they can eat in a few minutes.
Jumping is quite normal this time of year, unfortunately your pond design may mean that a miss directed jump could lead to a stranded fish, I made the stupid mistake a couple of years ago of draining my pond before the fish had really slowed up for winter. I put them into a large inflatable pool but didn't cover it. The next moring I found my best looking fish, an 18lb linear mirror, dead on the lawn, I'd taken that fish from a lake over 20 years ago as a 2 inch fingerling (with the owners permission), I was gutted as it's death was my fault.
p.s. I'm no expert but have 2 ponds one about 10,000 gallons with a proper filter system and UVs and a very large pond (about the size of 2 tennis courts), obviously with no filter system and year round murky brown water (it's clay lined).
|
|
General Carp Discussion