|
|
|
|
#61 23 Mar 2010 at 9.11am | |  |
|
In reply to Post #60 Hmmmm i don't know whats caused my line twist then, i'll try a change of line away from the fluoro coated and see what happens.
|
|
|
|
#60 22 Mar 2010 at 10.38pm | |  |
|
In reply to Post #29 Thanks Brindle
I actually get less line twist since using running rigs than I used to with lead clips. (The line should be able to untwist through the run ring) However, I do hold the lead away from the line after each cast and allow the hook to spin so that the line straightens out.
Basically any line or cable pulled from the end of a drum (watch how GPO engineers pull the line from their drums and you will see that they always allow the drum to spin in order to avoid twists) will twist. It is a case of managing that twist and taking regular action to reverse it. Either use a spin doctor or walk your line out over wet grass every now and then.
Like Keith I get very little problem with line twist and I use cheap Daiwa Sensor with Running leads
I load the line by putting the new spool of line into a bucket of water, and loading the reel up with the line going through the butt ring only.
At the end of every retrieve I allow time for the lead and end tackle to spin itself straight, and after a while (usually a few days fishing or end of the session) I cut off the lead, rig and last few centimetres of line and reel it all the way in before re-tackling.
I always play fish by backwinding as well, with the 8000size Aerlex
|
|
|
|
#59 22 Mar 2010 at 10.07pm | |  |
|
In reply to Post #58 I fish tend to fish alot of runs waters these days. What I find helps is to every now and then unclip the lead from the leadclip, pay off a few yards of line and with the rod raised, slowly start to retrieve keeping the line taught between finger and thumb. Your hook bait, (still attached) will start to spin round removing any twist. This literally takes a minute to do.
|
|
|
|
#58 22 Mar 2010 at 9.03pm | |  |
|
In reply to Post #56 has anyone used the daiwa line loader?
|
|
|
|
don't think i'm loading line wrong though. This is how i load line-
1. line into warm water for a few hours
2. line put through 1st eye on rod and tied to spool.
3. check that the label is facing up on the spool of line
4. Wind line on under tension from fingers
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #47 xline, powerpro and sensor.
line has got bugger all to do with it IMO.
it is more to do with spool size and your practice loading onto and taking line off the spool.
|
|
|
|
#47 9 Mar 2010 at 10.04am | |  |
|
In reply to Post #46 hhmmm, what line do you use?
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #44 I use the run rig rubber and don;t seem to suffer from twist?
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #43 That's a good idea, i usually have a few casts with just a lead to bed the line in when i put new line on however that seems like a better idea.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #42 Yeah i think that maybe the problem, what wouyld you recommend just a couple of rubber beads instead of the run rig rubber?
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #42 who here is sick of line twist , not me , walk 200yds of line off when you spool up with new line tie it to a tree or bank stick take out the stretch i.e. get your your line singing to ya , cut the line at the tree end and reel back on your spool through a damp cloth , I do this twice a season it's enough and i'm fed up of putting this up on here .
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #41 Hi Rudi
If you're using any kind of rubber or clip which holds the lead in place and doesn't allow the line to "spin" right down to the hook the twist will be exagerated. The lead acts as a kind of keel and stops the line from untwisting as you wind in. That's why Tel always unclips his lead after a tournament cast and winds the line in without anything on the end to stop it from being able to unwind.
|
|
|
|
|
I'm thinking about my set up and the only thing i can think that would cause the really tight coils i have excperienced might be the inclusion of a korda run rig rubber. The lead sits at a different angle sort of emi fixed on the rubber and could possibly i suppose twist the line when reeling in. Other than that i can't think as this twist is different from a normal line twist as the normal line twist is managable this albeit only means i have to strip off 5metres but the coils are very tight. It does only however get the 1st 5metres of the line above the lead so at least i'm not losing very much line. Off with the run rig rubbers i suppose.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #37 P line Flouroclear in 15lb is an excellent main line. Used it for a whole season and never got broke off once. I find a spin doctor does the trick. You can cast it out and "bank" some friendly coils to be used later. Don't start that back winding nonsense.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #38 getting rid of twist is quite easy just walk off a 100 yrds on a field etc then reel it in trapping the line between thumb and forefinger you will see it untwisting when you get to the end
spin doctor does the same thing
pencil through the spool works for me and it is crucial that there is no twist when casting 250 yrds plus in tourneys i just walk to the lead un clip it walk back to the rod and reel in like above
no line should come twisted we cause it by
baitrunners
boating baits out with the clutch
bad loading of line
playing fish with the clutch
smaller spools are worse for line twist plus they are often accompanied by a baitrunner lol
|
|