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   Old Thread  #30 16 Dec 2008 at 9.25pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #29
Sorry Nine,this must be real frustrating for you,ill try explain a bit more and ill put an example up,as explained earlier, the pic of the footbridge i took was in full auto mode on my canon eos,so i wasnt aware of what iso was, or ap etc,i just pointed and shot, and always hold the cam steady as poss to my face with my elbows into my chest,i havent the steadiest of hands but always struggle with taking consistently clear, and fully focused pics,now i know a pro has an "eye" for the perfect shot, and i certainly dont have that luxury/skill,so its normally a few pics of the scene or whatever and i keep the best one.i have pretty near perfect eyesight and dont wear specs,i can see when i have obviously just not held the cam steady and the shot is out of focus, but please look at this pic and you will see its full of colour, and reasonably in focus and clear/crisp,i merely wish to have all, well, much more of my pics this little bit clearer with more depth of colour.
Anyway,please feel free to criticize this pic, i trust your judgement fully,and its very much appreciated.
dog
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   Old Thread  #29 16 Dec 2008 at 9.10pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #28
I'm sure someone will know how to get the EXIF data on a PC. Hopefully they will post this information soon.

If it is a bit flat and you were set at 100ISO then all that could have helped really is better kit and better weather.

If they are a little out of focus lets try to solve that. It could be camera shake or the focus. Do you wear glasses and can the viewfinder be adjusted to compensate? How are you holding the camera (at arms length or well supported against your face)? Are you using a shutter speed that is too low (a well supported grip on the camera with a shortish lens and I'd go no lower than 1/60th of a second)? Do you squeeze the shutter or snap at it with a heavy finger? Do you set the focus manually or use the autofocus?


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   Old Thread  #28 16 Dec 2008 at 8.59pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #27
By "crisp", i mean flat or lfieless, and yes i guess a little out of focus sometimes,i know a tripod would help to some degree but i just dont get clear pics,well not all the time anyway.
And i would happily supply you the full efix data.........if i knew what it was and how to do it
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   Old Thread  #27 16 Dec 2008 at 6.53pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #26
What do you mean by not crisp? Do you mean they are a bit out of focus or blurred, or are they a bit flat and lifeless?

If you could post a pic with the EXIF data (I'll keep banging on about this until I get it) I will have a better clue as to what is going on.












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   Old Thread  #26 16 Dec 2008 at 4.47pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #25
Thanks Nine and Dave, now we're cooking.
For most of my pics i wish to take will be outdoors,scenic shots,along the river bank and out in the fields, with family and dogs etc,obviously light will vary, from sunny days to cloudy days,so will it be better for me to concentrate on exposure and ap for these situations??
Is it safe for me to leave the iso set at one particular level or will this need constant adjusting?
i thinkthe reason im more interested on learning more about manual shooting is that i never seem to get crisp photo's when just left in auto modes.
U know what guys, im seriously considering a college course on photography in the new year.
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   Old Thread  #25 16 Dec 2008 at 4.29pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #20
I'll add my rather basic 2p's worth.... (which may not be completely right)


p
tv
av
m


Without owning one of these camera i'm just guessing here, but:

P stands for Programme which is where you control ISO and metering but the aperture and exposure are auto calculated for you

TV stands for Time Value which is one of the two semi-auto modes. It means that you manually set the time value of the shutter aka shutter speed aka exposure, and the camera matches the ISO and aperture to what it considers best.

AV I think probably stands for Aperture Value, for what's called Aperture Priority. This is where you manually set the aperture width and the camera automatically sets values for exposure and ISO.

M stands for Manual, where you set everything manually.



Basically you want to get your head around Exposure aka Shutter Speed and Aperture (size/width) to start with.

Exposure (EXP) is the amount of the time the shutter stays open for, which directly effects the amount of light which enters the camera. This is most commonly adjusted for capturing motion, and there is probably a libraries worth of info on this subject alone.

Aperture (AP) is basically the size of the hole which opens in the camera for the picture to be taken. It is adjusted to affect field of depth, i.e. how sharp the stuff around the target is, again a much deeper subject than these two lines of explanation.

The two of these need to balance according to how close/far you are from your target, how much light there is, the depth of field you want, and whether your target is moving or still.


As for ISO, this wants to be as low as possible for better quality shots. High ISO allows you take photos in darker conditions at lower qualities and isn't of much use to the carp angler. Lower ISO requires more light, and therefore ties into AP and EXP.

Metering is how the camera calculates light levels. Multi mode metering, which is generally used will take an average of the light levels and expose the picture accordingly. This is ok if you have a balanced amount of light in the shot. Spot metering will use the light levels of a small area on/around the target. If you are taking a shot of something light against a dark background (the moon for example) or a dark subject on a light background (person with the light behind them) then spot metering will help. There are a few other different types of metering you can read up on also.

Thats a very basic lowdown but shoudl give you the building blocks for research without baffling you...


Research these terms on wikipedia for a better grasp on them.
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   Old Thread  #24 16 Dec 2008 at 4.02pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #23
30" is thirty seconds. Not enough light for your camera on the settings you have dialled in (for a hand held shot of the dog anyway).

The 5.6 is the aperture. The 2...1... ...1...2 is the exposure meter showing you how far over- or under-exposed the shot will be.

The manual should show all this and it will be much easier to go through it with the camera to hand seeing what all the major functions do. Leave everything else on auto for the moment.
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   Old Thread  #23 16 Dec 2008 at 3.28pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #22
Right, have just managed to find out how to adjust the iso,its set at 400 in the manual mode.but on the lcd screen it says 30" in the left top corner, also awb (auto whit balance i believe,in the middle top it says 5.6??? and middle there 2...1...... .......1......:2.... now this last one i see in the eyepeice display and its arrow pointing on +2 to the right hand side. also has the number 4 beside the green "shot ready" dot.
Make sense????
edit, i just took a pic of the dog to test, and the cam clicked as it took shot, then went dark and i couldnt see thru the eyepeice for about 20seconds until it clicked again....now im gettin scared
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   Old Thread  #22 16 Dec 2008 at 3.15pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #21
Thanx jon, i do have the manual but find it tough following the meanings exactly, i have already got the files set to large, so thats a start i guess.
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   Old Thread  #21 16 Dec 2008 at 2.45pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #20
Gazzer, you need this link if you don't have a manual for your camera: 300d Manual Link, it can be a bit slow so stick with it.

Settings for shooting start at page 47.
It is essential that your camera is configured to use all it's potential. Section 1 on page 48 explains how to reconfigure the cameras settings. Set it to Large, 6.3mpix.

Sorry to keep banging on about this but it is vital you do this otherwise, with all the help and tinkering around in the world, your camera will only be looking at life through partly closed eyes.
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   Old Thread  #20 16 Dec 2008 at 9.34am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #12
Right ,thanks lads,looks like this thread is gonna be a winner
I have just looked at my camera and i think i used it in the basic setting on autofocus ,which i beleive sets the iso at 100.now i presume this was not adequate enough for the given light conditions which were poor, or quite dull.i have never used the creative modes yet so i guess this is where i reset the iso to the conditions on the day....i have these options
p
tv
av
m
or a-dep hope that helps a little more Nine
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   Old Thread  #19 16 Dec 2008 at 5.36am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
for anyone that wants to see some really nice photography (imo) he have a look at my brothers flickr account, he has only been doing it a year or so but i think he is getting pretty good at it

http://www.flickr.com/photos/wwarby/
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   Old Thread  #18 15 Dec 2008 at 7.53pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #10
what a cracking photo. spot on bit of camera work there
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   Old Thread  #17 15 Dec 2008 at 7.53pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #10
what a cracking photo. spot on bit of camera work there
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   Old Thread  #16 15 Dec 2008 at 7.27pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #15
The stag was at Domaine de Boux, by the end of the week we were feeding him by hand, if you shook a box of cereal he would come charging up to the fence
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