In reply to Post #1707
i dont think the quality is bad mate. i bet photobucket is ruining them tho.
waht kit did u use and settings. personally i wouldnt expect to use a flash in that environment at all.
in fact ive taken the liberty of grabbing that file and running it thru lightroom.
youve got a nice shallow DOF and good clear focus. and thats just from the photobucket file thats already
lost resolution.
i dont think the quality is bad mate. i bet photobucket is ruining them tho.
waht kit did u use and settings. personally i wouldnt expect to use a flash in that environment at all.
in fact ive taken the liberty of grabbing that file and running it thru lightroom.
youve got a nice shallow DOF and good clear focus. and thats just from the photobucket file thats already
lost resolution.
In reply to Post #1708
Thanks for doing that Paul! that looks a lot better
The kit I was using was a canon eos 600d paired with a sigma 70-300mm ago, (have to say this lens is excellent value for money if anyone is looking at getting a budget action lens i highly reccomend it) to be honest im not sure what settings i was using as im on the ipad atm so not sure how to get the exif details, off the top of my head the iso was 1600 as lots of trees surrouding you makes it surprsingly dark, shutter speed was about 125/1 and a aperature of f8.0
Thanks for doing that Paul! that looks a lot better
The kit I was using was a canon eos 600d paired with a sigma 70-300mm ago, (have to say this lens is excellent value for money if anyone is looking at getting a budget action lens i highly reccomend it) to be honest im not sure what settings i was using as im on the ipad atm so not sure how to get the exif details, off the top of my head the iso was 1600 as lots of trees surrouding you makes it surprsingly dark, shutter speed was about 125/1 and a aperature of f8.0
A few from the weekend.. lots of bugs out to play!
EDIT.. turns out I don't know how to link shots from flickr. Help please!
EDIT.. turns out I don't know how to link shots from flickr. Help please!
In reply to Post #1710
click on ur pic untill u get it where u can choose the size. then choose the largest medium option.
right click the pic and copy location. then post in here with the usual < img src = stuff.
click on ur pic untill u get it where u can choose the size. then choose the largest medium option.
right click the pic and copy location. then post in here with the usual < img src = stuff.
In reply to Post #1706
A little bit pricey unfortunately. I wouldn't use it anything like enough to warrant spending that on one. Perhaps I'll look into selling my camera and getting a replacement that will do what I want it to.
Seems silly to do that just so I can use a different lens, but some of the shots I've seem with nifty50's are just incredible.
A little bit pricey unfortunately. I wouldn't use it anything like enough to warrant spending that on one. Perhaps I'll look into selling my camera and getting a replacement that will do what I want it to.
Seems silly to do that just so I can use a different lens, but some of the shots I've seem with nifty50's are just incredible.
In reply to Post #1712
Compatibility chart
AF-S will give you autofocus. I think you may have been a bit confused by what you had read (post 1704), the focus won't change, it is the effective field of view that changes because of the sensor size difference between your camera and a full frame (or 35mm film) camera. Google 'crop factor', there are plenty of good articles on this subject.
Compatibility chart
AF-S will give you autofocus. I think you may have been a bit confused by what you had read (post 1704), the focus won't change, it is the effective field of view that changes because of the sensor size difference between your camera and a full frame (or 35mm film) camera. Google 'crop factor', there are plenty of good articles on this subject.
In reply to Post #1712
I have a Nikon D40 too, the 35mm 1.8 AFS is a fantastic lens for trophy shots. You can keep the fish nice and focussed and throw the background into blur with a shallow DOF. As said, due to the crop sensor the 35mm will basically act as a 50mm. Well worth the money
I have a Nikon D40 too, the 35mm 1.8 AFS is a fantastic lens for trophy shots. You can keep the fish nice and focussed and throw the background into blur with a shallow DOF. As said, due to the crop sensor the 35mm will basically act as a 50mm. Well worth the money
Hmm.. can't find the 'save location' mentioned but here's a tester..
Aha! It worked so here's the rest..
Aha! It worked so here's the rest..
In reply to Post #1715
My first Bird shot's..
But it's a start.
My first Bird shot's..
But it's a start.
In reply to Post #1716
Nice pictures DUKE NUKEM. Canadians look good in B&W
Nice pictures DUKE NUKEM. Canadians look good in B&W
In reply to Post #1717
Cheers thanxs Dave.
An amateur compared to you guys but playing with a new Cannon S100 still need to learn all it's functions, then the pics might be better.
Also reloaded the pics to Flicr I see you guy's say it's sharper then.
Cheers thanxs Dave.
An amateur compared to you guys but playing with a new Cannon S100 still need to learn all it's functions, then the pics might be better.
Also reloaded the pics to Flicr I see you guy's say it's sharper then.
In reply to Post #1706
yes dave that was the one
yes dave that was the one
Captured with a Vivitar 90mm f2.8 macro lens in Canon FD mount adapted to EOS system
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In reply to Post #1720
has anyone used extension tubes for macro work? i want to try them out as they are a lot cheaper than a lens, but dont want to waste money. also considering a reversing adaptor. any thoughts?
mike d
has anyone used extension tubes for macro work? i want to try them out as they are a lot cheaper than a lens, but dont want to waste money. also considering a reversing adaptor. any thoughts?
mike d
In reply to Post #1721
Hi Mike, this capture was taken with a Canon 50mm f1.8 lens in FD mount reversed onto the camera and 2 extension tubes fitted. The aperture is controlled by a FD-EOS converter.
Not sure which camera you have but if it has an electronic focusing lens fitted to it then you would need to get a set of extension tubes which work with the electronics of the camera.
If you attach a non auto set of tubes to the camera then the lens can only be used at full aperture as there is no way to stop the lens down.
The same is true of trying to reverse an electronic lens onto the camera. On the cost front I have seen auto tubes advertised for around £60 new on EBay. In the case of Canon I think they are around the £200+ mark.
The lens that took this capture was a successful bid on EBay and I got it for £20. The reversing ring was £5 and a set of tubes were around the £8 mark. You would also need an adaptor to manually stop down and open the aperture which is a FD-EOS converter they cost around £5 for the macro version. Basically they are rubbish but ideal for this job.
I have dedicated Macro lenses but this outfit can produce some very good results.
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My last capture 1720 was taken with a 30year old lens converted to EOS mount. This was another successful bid on EBay and I got it for £80. Old glass in sort after makes is becoming scarce because in many cases they are as good if not better than the modern equivalents for the fraction of the cost.
Hi Mike, this capture was taken with a Canon 50mm f1.8 lens in FD mount reversed onto the camera and 2 extension tubes fitted. The aperture is controlled by a FD-EOS converter.
Not sure which camera you have but if it has an electronic focusing lens fitted to it then you would need to get a set of extension tubes which work with the electronics of the camera.
If you attach a non auto set of tubes to the camera then the lens can only be used at full aperture as there is no way to stop the lens down.
The same is true of trying to reverse an electronic lens onto the camera. On the cost front I have seen auto tubes advertised for around £60 new on EBay. In the case of Canon I think they are around the £200+ mark.
The lens that took this capture was a successful bid on EBay and I got it for £20. The reversing ring was £5 and a set of tubes were around the £8 mark. You would also need an adaptor to manually stop down and open the aperture which is a FD-EOS converter they cost around £5 for the macro version. Basically they are rubbish but ideal for this job.
I have dedicated Macro lenses but this outfit can produce some very good results.
width=500>My last capture 1720 was taken with a 30year old lens converted to EOS mount. This was another successful bid on EBay and I got it for £80. Old glass in sort after makes is becoming scarce because in many cases they are as good if not better than the modern equivalents for the fraction of the cost.