In reply to Post #46
I had a look at my stealth barrow last night and its the same, tried some tape but it just made the handles difficult to get in and made no difference to the side to side movement. I still have the original porterlite handles and they were the same. Its like the frame is slightly wider side to side, but not top to bottom..it all measures up ok so no idea why there's more movement that way
I had a look at my stealth barrow last night and its the same, tried some tape but it just made the handles difficult to get in and made no difference to the side to side movement. I still have the original porterlite handles and they were the same. Its like the frame is slightly wider side to side, but not top to bottom..it all measures up ok so no idea why there's more movement that way
Is there only 1 thumbwheel for these handles?
As we're talking a very small amount of play maybe you could use a vice to pinch one side wall in slightly. Put a small C clamp on the side walls, tighten up, insert handle, then keep tightening the vice while moving the handle in and out until the play is reduced. Might have to take the foot off the clamp to create a smaller clamping area to pinch, and would have to do it in a couple of places. If aesthetics are a problem you could always pinch it on the inside edge only, using a block of wood to protect the outer edge. It shouldn't affect the box shape as you're only making minute indents.
I bought some of the BCUK handles for my trakker barrow and had the opposite problem. As they were black I used the scrape marks on the paint as tightness indicators and used a dremmel to grind them down in those areas, in some plaes it was only the thickness of the paint. The fit is really tight, just right, so maybe adding more layers of paint might work.
Edit, obv there would be other ways to do it, like adding a 2nd thumbscrew but you'd need to weld the nut on the frame. Could also pinch the frame with a through bolt going through handle and frame, could just be a longer thumbscrew with a nut on the end, would it work, who knows. I'm sure someone else must have modded a handle.
As we're talking a very small amount of play maybe you could use a vice to pinch one side wall in slightly. Put a small C clamp on the side walls, tighten up, insert handle, then keep tightening the vice while moving the handle in and out until the play is reduced. Might have to take the foot off the clamp to create a smaller clamping area to pinch, and would have to do it in a couple of places. If aesthetics are a problem you could always pinch it on the inside edge only, using a block of wood to protect the outer edge. It shouldn't affect the box shape as you're only making minute indents.
I bought some of the BCUK handles for my trakker barrow and had the opposite problem. As they were black I used the scrape marks on the paint as tightness indicators and used a dremmel to grind them down in those areas, in some plaes it was only the thickness of the paint. The fit is really tight, just right, so maybe adding more layers of paint might work.
Edit, obv there would be other ways to do it, like adding a 2nd thumbscrew but you'd need to weld the nut on the frame. Could also pinch the frame with a through bolt going through handle and frame, could just be a longer thumbscrew with a nut on the end, would it work, who knows. I'm sure someone else must have modded a handle.
If I'm reading this correctly the problem seems to be side to side movement of the handles. Would it be possible to put a ratchet strap across the handles just behind the grips to tension them. It should work similar to the cross brace on some of the larger barrows.
In reply to Post #49
Thanks for all the ideas think l'll try building the sides up with paint first see how that goes before anything else, l see carp porter sell small tins of the touch up paint £6.99 but they want £7 postage on top of that, sure l'll find it else wear just with it been new thought l'd do a tidy job with same colour, it's abit of a joke really how carp porter have made these handle and l know mines only the cheaper stealth barrow which suits my fishing as well as fitting in the car nicely but just imagine if the top of the range power porters are turned out like this.
Thanks for all the ideas think l'll try building the sides up with paint first see how that goes before anything else, l see carp porter sell small tins of the touch up paint £6.99 but they want £7 postage on top of that, sure l'll find it else wear just with it been new thought l'd do a tidy job with same colour, it's abit of a joke really how carp porter have made these handle and l know mines only the cheaper stealth barrow which suits my fishing as well as fitting in the car nicely but just imagine if the top of the range power porters are turned out like this.
In reply to Post #50
Jic it might be of interest there's a seller on Ebay who sells a spray that supposed to match most modern barrows. I bought one as my BCUK handles are black and my ocd is struggling with it
haven't done it yet though.
Jic it might be of interest there's a seller on Ebay who sells a spray that supposed to match most modern barrows. I bought one as my BCUK handles are black and my ocd is struggling with it
haven't done it yet though.
In reply to Post #50
The most expensive carp porters have this issue too. And you you what, I noticed it too with the most expensive Solar barrow too. But that uses a different style of locking nut, so maybe that wasn't tightened properly.
The most expensive carp porters have this issue too. And you you what, I noticed it too with the most expensive Solar barrow too. But that uses a different style of locking nut, so maybe that wasn't tightened properly.
My mk7 Powerporter I never tighten the front wheel on or the handles. I have bumped the front wheel out of the stays a couple of times. And had to unload the barrow and load again. But the cables and connectors have been spot on. I did have a tack weld go on the rear stay which was replaced under warranty. Apart from the tack welds there pretty rugged.
In reply to Post #52
My solar power barrow has handle movement, quite annoying but I hang something off the bar , which probably doesn't help long term but works in the moment
My solar power barrow has handle movement, quite annoying but I hang something off the bar , which probably doesn't help long term but works in the moment
In reply to Post #37
Hi Karlos, How are you getting on with the Trident, now you've had a few months of use.
Hi Karlos, How are you getting on with the Trident, now you've had a few months of use.
In reply to Post #55
I like it, but it's not perfect.
This winter at my syndicate one bank is a grass slope. Very soft with all the rain we've had.
The barrow struggled, but I think all barrows would, the wheel would sink in up to the axle and reverse wouldn't get it out I had to give it the big one while reversing to back it up and choose a line line of attack.
The fact the barrow weighs a ton and I take too much kit doesn't help. The batteries alone were 13kg (if memory serves me right) and with 3 chunky wheels and a full frame it's heavy.
There's been rust around the front wheel since it's first trip out. Somebody mentioned this (probably in this thread) and suggested a product I could use. I need to get my finger out and get on and do that.
The speed controller on mine has gone faulty, I need to send the video to Carp-Porter and see what they think. Basically when you twist the dial around to 100% it stops. The dial works fine up until about 80% of the way around.
I should add, this used to work perfectly. It's still usable...I am not sure if I'm getting 100% power when the dial is on 80% or not (sounds daft, but the power isn't analog....I found that as you turned the dial it would suddenly have more ummpfff at certain points)
I'm not fond of the motor being outside the wheel. Pushing through that mud meant the motor/cables got caked and even the box section steel that attaches the wheel to the barrow filled with mud. Big solid rectangular 'turd' would plop out when I got the barrow home and gently jet washed it (it was THAT muddy each time...the mud alone must have added 10 to 20kg to the barrow weight)
The bucket holder that you can fit onto the front. Mine kept slipping. I got around it by drilling my own holes in the internal frame (8mm I think?) so that when I screwed the nuts in, instead of pushing against the frame they go into that hole and the frame rests on the bolt. It's a bit of a 'violent' approach to solving the problem, but it's worked perfectly and the bucket holder hasn't slipped since (when it slipped, the hinge would go over the lower put of the frame and scratch paint off)
That all sounds a bit negative, but the work I've made it does this winter is problem more extreme than most people would encounter. On normally grass, or nice firm paths it chugs along lovely.
It doesn't rattle and squeak much while bouncing around in the back on the van en route to the lake (which is a bonus as my other barrows are a lot squeakier!)
Oh yeah, the brake. I don't really rate it. It doesn't really grip the wheel (type) very well. Also, mine had an issue where a bolt wasn't done up tight enough which enabled the brake (when off) to pass by the stopping point. Maybe I'll do a little video to explain that. Once again I was able to fix this, I just wound the nut up tighter to decrease the amount of left/right play that the brake had.
I love the large side bags, I can keep stuff in there that I rarely need...but at least I have it with me (spare marker floats/spods etc etc...also some little storm poles that I use for the spodding station...so I always have them to hand rather than having to go back to the van for them
If you have any specific questions, fire away, I feel I have waffled too much there...
I like it, but it's not perfect.
This winter at my syndicate one bank is a grass slope. Very soft with all the rain we've had.
The barrow struggled, but I think all barrows would, the wheel would sink in up to the axle and reverse wouldn't get it out I had to give it the big one while reversing to back it up and choose a line line of attack.
The fact the barrow weighs a ton and I take too much kit doesn't help. The batteries alone were 13kg (if memory serves me right) and with 3 chunky wheels and a full frame it's heavy.
There's been rust around the front wheel since it's first trip out. Somebody mentioned this (probably in this thread) and suggested a product I could use. I need to get my finger out and get on and do that.
The speed controller on mine has gone faulty, I need to send the video to Carp-Porter and see what they think. Basically when you twist the dial around to 100% it stops. The dial works fine up until about 80% of the way around.
I should add, this used to work perfectly. It's still usable...I am not sure if I'm getting 100% power when the dial is on 80% or not (sounds daft, but the power isn't analog....I found that as you turned the dial it would suddenly have more ummpfff at certain points)
I'm not fond of the motor being outside the wheel. Pushing through that mud meant the motor/cables got caked and even the box section steel that attaches the wheel to the barrow filled with mud. Big solid rectangular 'turd' would plop out when I got the barrow home and gently jet washed it (it was THAT muddy each time...the mud alone must have added 10 to 20kg to the barrow weight)
The bucket holder that you can fit onto the front. Mine kept slipping. I got around it by drilling my own holes in the internal frame (8mm I think?) so that when I screwed the nuts in, instead of pushing against the frame they go into that hole and the frame rests on the bolt. It's a bit of a 'violent' approach to solving the problem, but it's worked perfectly and the bucket holder hasn't slipped since (when it slipped, the hinge would go over the lower put of the frame and scratch paint off)
That all sounds a bit negative, but the work I've made it does this winter is problem more extreme than most people would encounter. On normally grass, or nice firm paths it chugs along lovely.
It doesn't rattle and squeak much while bouncing around in the back on the van en route to the lake (which is a bonus as my other barrows are a lot squeakier!)
Oh yeah, the brake. I don't really rate it. It doesn't really grip the wheel (type) very well. Also, mine had an issue where a bolt wasn't done up tight enough which enabled the brake (when off) to pass by the stopping point. Maybe I'll do a little video to explain that. Once again I was able to fix this, I just wound the nut up tighter to decrease the amount of left/right play that the brake had.
I love the large side bags, I can keep stuff in there that I rarely need...but at least I have it with me (spare marker floats/spods etc etc...also some little storm poles that I use for the spodding station...so I always have them to hand rather than having to go back to the van for them
If you have any specific questions, fire away, I feel I have waffled too much there...
In reply to Post #56
Thanks Karlos, I will also be using it on non made up paths i.e muddy. I am also considering the Glider but I'm a bit concerned about the rear shopping trolley wheels getting caked in mud and not moving. Does the Trident steer ok
Thanks Karlos, I will also be using it on non made up paths i.e muddy. I am also considering the Glider but I'm a bit concerned about the rear shopping trolley wheels getting caked in mud and not moving. Does the Trident steer ok
In reply to Post #57
Yeah, the Trident steers ok, considering the fat rear wheels. Basically as you're approaching the corner you start turning sooner than needed and do a long slow arch. If it's a sharp corner you'll need to slow down, probably, and lift the handles to get the rear wheels up in the air (it can be heavy doing it this way)
I did look at the Glider at the show, but didn't like the small wheels. They'd be fine on tarmac but I wouldn't want to use them on places I fish. Also, the Glider is quite a bit longer than the Trident and it wouldn't fit in my van anyhow (with handles on).
If I take the 17l bucket out of the bucket holder on the front, and fold it up flat...I can JUST fit the Trident in the rear of my LWB Transporter. The tailgate closes with an inch or so to spare.
Yeah, the Trident steers ok, considering the fat rear wheels. Basically as you're approaching the corner you start turning sooner than needed and do a long slow arch. If it's a sharp corner you'll need to slow down, probably, and lift the handles to get the rear wheels up in the air (it can be heavy doing it this way)
I did look at the Glider at the show, but didn't like the small wheels. They'd be fine on tarmac but I wouldn't want to use them on places I fish. Also, the Glider is quite a bit longer than the Trident and it wouldn't fit in my van anyhow (with handles on).
If I take the 17l bucket out of the bucket holder on the front, and fold it up flat...I can JUST fit the Trident in the rear of my LWB Transporter. The tailgate closes with an inch or so to spare.
In reply to Post #58
How does the barrow compare to your old Nash one? Would uou still buy the porter now or go for something else V
How does the barrow compare to your old Nash one? Would uou still buy the porter now or go for something else V
Can you fit lithium batteries on the new porters ?
In reply to Post #60
Yes, albeit unofficially.
Yes, albeit unofficially.