In reply to Post #42
Thanks all, as its winter and the lakes are a little quieter I have decided to do some self testing and figure out what suits me from your suggestions.
Have previsously used sensor in 12lb for my fishing but new rules have made me think of trying something different (we all get that itch now and again don't we?)
I'm going to trial the following for now as suggested:
ESP syncro
Gardner hydrotuff
Cm90
Thanks all, as its winter and the lakes are a little quieter I have decided to do some self testing and figure out what suits me from your suggestions.
Have previsously used sensor in 12lb for my fishing but new rules have made me think of trying something different (we all get that itch now and again don't we?)
I'm going to trial the following for now as suggested:
ESP syncro
Gardner hydrotuff
Cm90
In reply to Post #44
Nick, that's very true. I had a long conversation with a tackle shop owner that said most lines are made in the same factory and just labelled up for different manufacturers.
Nick, that's very true. I had a long conversation with a tackle shop owner that said most lines are made in the same factory and just labelled up for different manufacturers.
In reply to Post #47
Made in the same factory does not mean it's all the same line. I think it's more important to strip back line that's been stretched to it's limit or roughened up on weed or gravel.
Made in the same factory does not mean it's all the same line. I think it's more important to strip back line that's been stretched to it's limit or roughened up on weed or gravel.
In reply to Post #48
Gr60
Gr60
Katran Synapse.
This theory that UV light damages nylon, ok, check what many of your clothes are made of, types of nylon.
I think that there are only six nylon monofilament producers or factories in the world.
Even these factories are not always producing nylon monofilament specifically for fishing, they will be used in other industries, rope making as a possible example.
The dye used to colour the line can change its strength and how supple it is. I personally found many clear lines are stiffer than coloured lines, and don't knot as tidily.
Personally I have tested a number of mono's over time, from good old Sylcast to Daiwa, Gardner Pro, Nash Bullet and Big Game. Abrasion resistance, yield, knot strength and even line twist. Strangely enough pretty much what Dave Holden of the PAC has been doing for years and writing about in his Pikelines articles.
I also found that line loading is easier than many people think, and I rarely suffer from line twist since I started loading line this way. I put the new line in a bucket of water, and take it back to the reel through the butt eye of the rod. I then wind it onto the reel allowing it to choose its own rotation in the bucket. As I cut the line when the reel is full any twist comes out.
By playing fish off the clutch and allowing line off the reel on a baitrunner you add in twist, which is not always removed by casting.
Many lines are made to sound better than they are by overrating them.
Call a line with a diameter of 0.38-0.40mm 15lb and it breaks at 18-20lb then you have overrated it, and 'lied' to the end user. A 0.38mm line is actually 18lb, 0.40 is 20lb. 15lb is usually 0.35mm.
I think that there are only six nylon monofilament producers or factories in the world.
Even these factories are not always producing nylon monofilament specifically for fishing, they will be used in other industries, rope making as a possible example.
The dye used to colour the line can change its strength and how supple it is. I personally found many clear lines are stiffer than coloured lines, and don't knot as tidily.
Personally I have tested a number of mono's over time, from good old Sylcast to Daiwa, Gardner Pro, Nash Bullet and Big Game. Abrasion resistance, yield, knot strength and even line twist. Strangely enough pretty much what Dave Holden of the PAC has been doing for years and writing about in his Pikelines articles.
I also found that line loading is easier than many people think, and I rarely suffer from line twist since I started loading line this way. I put the new line in a bucket of water, and take it back to the reel through the butt eye of the rod. I then wind it onto the reel allowing it to choose its own rotation in the bucket. As I cut the line when the reel is full any twist comes out.
By playing fish off the clutch and allowing line off the reel on a baitrunner you add in twist, which is not always removed by casting.
Many lines are made to sound better than they are by overrating them.
Call a line with a diameter of 0.38-0.40mm 15lb and it breaks at 18-20lb then you have overrated it, and 'lied' to the end user. A 0.38mm line is actually 18lb, 0.40 is 20lb. 15lb is usually 0.35mm.
In reply to Post #51
How does cutting your line once loaded allow any twist to come out?
How does cutting your line once loaded allow any twist to come out?
In reply to Post #51
Bravo Nick.
You went the long way around the houses and didn't really address the point
Don't see what clothes, Dave Holden (whoever that is), line twist or diameter have to do with UV deterioration
Bravo Nick.
You went the long way around the houses and didn't really address the point
Don't see what clothes, Dave Holden (whoever that is), line twist or diameter have to do with UV deterioration
Golden rules for Fluorocarbon lines:
Once on the reel (doesn't matter if you use warm, hot or cold water as fluorocarbons do not absorb water like monos do) make sure that you stretch it out PROPERLY over a field etc. Pull to almost breaking point half a dozen times ( I place a no-slip loop onto a bivvy peg pushed as far into the ground as possible- a 12" T peg is perfect if you have them as they will never move however hard you pull), then tkae the peg out of the ground and reel back on through a damp cloth under tension (the damp cloth keeps even tension on the line as well as getting rid of any crap that may stick to it being reeled across the ground (damp grass is best without any lead etc on the end of it so it can "turn" freely as the twists are straightened out). You may need to do this several times per spool to get 99% of the line twist & any memory out of it.
Do not use it with Super Slow Oscillation reels. These are great for braid or mono but a nightmare for fluorocarbons for some reason. The tight coils & the inherent springiness of the fluorocarbon is a recipe for coils coming off the spool when you don't want them to. The slowest oscillation I would use fluorocarbons with is the Shimano Ultegra Ci4 XTC with it's 50 coils per spool oscillation. Any more than that & you are risking over runs.
NEVER use the clutch to play the fish on! Fluorocarbon retains twists like a MoFo & using the drag to play fish will, cause it to curl up & become almost unmanageable after a couple of sessions if not looked after again. With a free spool function for takes, use the tightest setting that you dare. Backwind when playing fish (same with Mono's but mono is a lot more forgiving than Fluorocarbons).
Clean it after every session. At least after every session chuck out a bare lead & run it back through a damp cloth to remove any particles that may have attached themselves to the line when in the water. Fluorocarbons are almost "magnetic" when it comes to waterborne particulates. Also helps to remove some of the twist that the line may have picked up during the session.
Stretch it like you did when putting it on the spool for first time after every third or fourth session. You will thank me for this!
Fluorocarbons should never be fished tight to the lead as they will attract any particulates floating about in the water like a magnet & iron filings. This will turn an "almost invisible" line in to a tow rope! Fluorocarbons are no less visible in freshwater than a standard clear mono is. Fluorocarbon is a lot denser than mono or co-polymer lines so will sink like a brick and best fished slack or extremely semi-slack for best results.
I use fluorocarbons almost exclusively barring distance casting and have no issues whatsoever with them by following the above. I also save myself a fair bit of money as I only need to change the line once every year as it has been looked after. Fluorocarbons are not like mono's which weaken if exposed to UV light and moisture a lot. Fluorocarbons are certainly not for the angler that doesn't like to make sure everything is 100% with their gear.
Once on the reel (doesn't matter if you use warm, hot or cold water as fluorocarbons do not absorb water like monos do) make sure that you stretch it out PROPERLY over a field etc. Pull to almost breaking point half a dozen times ( I place a no-slip loop onto a bivvy peg pushed as far into the ground as possible- a 12" T peg is perfect if you have them as they will never move however hard you pull), then tkae the peg out of the ground and reel back on through a damp cloth under tension (the damp cloth keeps even tension on the line as well as getting rid of any crap that may stick to it being reeled across the ground (damp grass is best without any lead etc on the end of it so it can "turn" freely as the twists are straightened out). You may need to do this several times per spool to get 99% of the line twist & any memory out of it.
Do not use it with Super Slow Oscillation reels. These are great for braid or mono but a nightmare for fluorocarbons for some reason. The tight coils & the inherent springiness of the fluorocarbon is a recipe for coils coming off the spool when you don't want them to. The slowest oscillation I would use fluorocarbons with is the Shimano Ultegra Ci4 XTC with it's 50 coils per spool oscillation. Any more than that & you are risking over runs.
NEVER use the clutch to play the fish on! Fluorocarbon retains twists like a MoFo & using the drag to play fish will, cause it to curl up & become almost unmanageable after a couple of sessions if not looked after again. With a free spool function for takes, use the tightest setting that you dare. Backwind when playing fish (same with Mono's but mono is a lot more forgiving than Fluorocarbons).
Clean it after every session. At least after every session chuck out a bare lead & run it back through a damp cloth to remove any particles that may have attached themselves to the line when in the water. Fluorocarbons are almost "magnetic" when it comes to waterborne particulates. Also helps to remove some of the twist that the line may have picked up during the session.
Stretch it like you did when putting it on the spool for first time after every third or fourth session. You will thank me for this!
Fluorocarbons should never be fished tight to the lead as they will attract any particulates floating about in the water like a magnet & iron filings. This will turn an "almost invisible" line in to a tow rope! Fluorocarbons are no less visible in freshwater than a standard clear mono is. Fluorocarbon is a lot denser than mono or co-polymer lines so will sink like a brick and best fished slack or extremely semi-slack for best results.
I use fluorocarbons almost exclusively barring distance casting and have no issues whatsoever with them by following the above. I also save myself a fair bit of money as I only need to change the line once every year as it has been looked after. Fluorocarbons are not like mono's which weaken if exposed to UV light and moisture a lot. Fluorocarbons are certainly not for the angler that doesn't like to make sure everything is 100% with their gear.
In reply to Post #44
UV light does NOT degrade fishing line.
Prolonged exposure to UV light and damp conditions will lessen the life of monofilament nylon lines - FACT. Don't care what anyone says or what their job is, I have been told the same thing (and experienced it with nylon monofilaments personally) by several people who actually produce lines for a living not just test them. Fluorocarbon coated mono's will suffer less from the UV & dampness deterioration of lines because of the coating that does not absorb water and "disperses" UV light in a different manner to nylon monofilaments. UV light is not the main cause for nylon mono's to degrade, but the absorption of moisture and drying out again that causes them to go brittle, which is enhanced by UV light.
UV light does NOT degrade fishing line.
Prolonged exposure to UV light and damp conditions will lessen the life of monofilament nylon lines - FACT. Don't care what anyone says or what their job is, I have been told the same thing (and experienced it with nylon monofilaments personally) by several people who actually produce lines for a living not just test them. Fluorocarbon coated mono's will suffer less from the UV & dampness deterioration of lines because of the coating that does not absorb water and "disperses" UV light in a different manner to nylon monofilaments. UV light is not the main cause for nylon mono's to degrade, but the absorption of moisture and drying out again that causes them to go brittle, which is enhanced by UV light.
In reply to Post #21
So in conclusion your favourite line is...... CM90 right?
So in conclusion your favourite line is...... CM90 right?
In reply to Post #46
Which came out top?
Which came out top?
In reply to Post #28
as CM90 is discontinued, what are you using today?thx.
as CM90 is discontinued, what are you using today?thx.
In reply to Post #58
I switched to Gardner Tackle GT-HD last year after using the Pro stuff for years - can't see myself changing anytime soon....
I switched to Gardner Tackle GT-HD last year after using the Pro stuff for years - can't see myself changing anytime soon....
In reply to Post #59
Gardner Tackle GT-HD has mixed reviews, seems best reviews are for.. ESP Syncro XT 👍
Gardner Tackle GT-HD has mixed reviews, seems best reviews are for.. ESP Syncro XT 👍