In reply to Post #186
Can be a pain mate,this works. Using Photobucket click on the image to get a 60% enlargement. Right click on the photo, drop down menue select properties. Highlite the url Right click to copy.
On the site put in this

Important that you leave a space after img and at the end of the code you pasted
Hope that helped.
Can be a pain mate,this works. Using Photobucket click on the image to get a 60% enlargement. Right click on the photo, drop down menue select properties. Highlite the url Right click to copy.
On the site put in this
Important that you leave a space after img and at the end of the code you pasted
Hope that helped.
Few more from playing around the other day..






In reply to Post #191
Can I make a suggestion, when taking still life shots especially close ups it's very important that you get the entire image in very sharp focus. What normally happens is that there is not always sufficient lighting to allow the camera to function on a small aperture ie f16 and below which gives you a good depth of field. You focus on a part of the object, which results in that part being in focus but other parts will be out of focus; this is one of the problems of close up photography.
A couple of ways around this. You can use additional lighting. Digital cameras are very tolerant of the types of lighting that can be used without causing a color cast over the image. Depending on the lights used you can get a blue to gold cast. Digital does not suffer as badly. You could use flash but at close up distances it tends to wash out the image. The easiest way is to use the smallest aperture you can get away with which will give you a longer exposure. This can be a problem because exposure will reach a point where camera shake will give a blurry image. A tripod and a remote control will allow you to use a longer time exposure with a small aperture which will give you a crisp image across all of the subject.
Not wishing to tell people how to suck eggs but I hope this helped.
Can I make a suggestion, when taking still life shots especially close ups it's very important that you get the entire image in very sharp focus. What normally happens is that there is not always sufficient lighting to allow the camera to function on a small aperture ie f16 and below which gives you a good depth of field. You focus on a part of the object, which results in that part being in focus but other parts will be out of focus; this is one of the problems of close up photography.
A couple of ways around this. You can use additional lighting. Digital cameras are very tolerant of the types of lighting that can be used without causing a color cast over the image. Depending on the lights used you can get a blue to gold cast. Digital does not suffer as badly. You could use flash but at close up distances it tends to wash out the image. The easiest way is to use the smallest aperture you can get away with which will give you a longer exposure. This can be a problem because exposure will reach a point where camera shake will give a blurry image. A tripod and a remote control will allow you to use a longer time exposure with a small aperture which will give you a crisp image across all of the subject.
Not wishing to tell people how to suck eggs but I hope this helped.
In reply to Post #193
Advice taken on board, and appreciated, however on this occasion I purposely shot those pictures in that way, for contrast and to attract attention to the parts in focus.
Cheers for your advice though!
Advice taken on board, and appreciated, however on this occasion I purposely shot those pictures in that way, for contrast and to attract attention to the parts in focus.
Cheers for your advice though!
In reply to Post #194
You're welcome. It did cross my mind that you may have intentionally taken the shot that way. When you try creative stuff, which is great, sometimes subtle stuff does not always work.For example foreground in pin sharp focus with the mid and background totally out seems to be appreciated. Foreground out of focus seems not to work as well. If you have access to Photoshop or similar (GIMP) the free package from the web you can `unsharpen` selected parts of the image which can make the shot more interesting. If you don't like the result you can revert back to the original shot. All the close up stuff that I take is with the Canon 18-55 lens. For best results a macro lens gives you a lot of extra detail and is worth the money if you intend doing a lot of this type of stuff. The shot attached was taken on a hand held camera, with a standard lens. If you look closely at the wings, the tips are very slightly soft. This was caused by using a small aperture, for max depth of field which resulted in a longer exposure which did not quite freeze the small amount of movement of the wings.
You're welcome. It did cross my mind that you may have intentionally taken the shot that way. When you try creative stuff, which is great, sometimes subtle stuff does not always work.For example foreground in pin sharp focus with the mid and background totally out seems to be appreciated. Foreground out of focus seems not to work as well. If you have access to Photoshop or similar (GIMP) the free package from the web you can `unsharpen` selected parts of the image which can make the shot more interesting. If you don't like the result you can revert back to the original shot. All the close up stuff that I take is with the Canon 18-55 lens. For best results a macro lens gives you a lot of extra detail and is worth the money if you intend doing a lot of this type of stuff. The shot attached was taken on a hand held camera, with a standard lens. If you look closely at the wings, the tips are very slightly soft. This was caused by using a small aperture, for max depth of field which resulted in a longer exposure which did not quite freeze the small amount of movement of the wings.
In reply to Post #1158
How did you get that post number?
How did you get that post number?
In reply to Post #1159
just clicked reply on previous post which is 1000?
just clicked reply on previous post which is 1000?
In reply to Post #1158
dave is that taken with the 35 mm lens? and a prime af what was the exact model??
dave is that taken with the 35 mm lens? and a prime af what was the exact model??
In reply to Post #1161
Sorry i took so long replying..
Yes i was using my Nikon D5000 plus nikkor 35mm f1.8 G AF-S DX prime lens.
I would also like to add this is the best lens Ive used on my DSLR and well worth its money.
produces sharper pictures than any zoom and a good all round lens i use it for self-takes landscapes etc and fast enough for indoor shots without flash.
Sorry i took so long replying..
Yes i was using my Nikon D5000 plus nikkor 35mm f1.8 G AF-S DX prime lens.
I would also like to add this is the best lens Ive used on my DSLR and well worth its money.
produces sharper pictures than any zoom and a good all round lens i use it for self-takes landscapes etc and fast enough for indoor shots without flash.
In reply to Post #1163
Hi Peter
Nice scene it looks as if you have left your lens hood on when using wide angle. I have taken it out for ou. Hope you dont mind
Hi Peter
Nice scene it looks as if you have left your lens hood on when using wide angle. I have taken it out for ou. Hope you dont mind
In reply to Post #1164
Hi Jeff not at all glad you spotted it i love photography my step father was a professional i spent a bit of time in the dark room with him when i was younger but i think digital is a lot easier thanks
Hi Jeff not at all glad you spotted it i love photography my step father was a professional i spent a bit of time in the dark room with him when i was younger but i think digital is a lot easier thanks



