I'm a big fan of using Solid PVA bags and always like to prepare a few before I go fishing. I can quickly change these with the loop to loop method but I have recently joined a syndicate where rig tubing is mandatory and any kind of leader is banned. Obviously, the quick change loop to loop would get stuck in the tubing, therefore, as far as I can see, it is not possible to do this. Has anyone overcome this problem and if so, what components have you used?
Tia.
Tia.
In reply to Post #1
Have a look at this mate:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4qnHeA8VtZw
Have a look at this mate:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4qnHeA8VtZw
In reply to Post #2
Convenience over substance.
That looks like it wouldn't drop the lead, and loop knots are strangulation knots so a massive compromise in line strength.
Convenience over substance.
That looks like it wouldn't drop the lead, and loop knots are strangulation knots so a massive compromise in line strength.
In reply to Post #1
I 'got away' with using the Gemini PVA bag fluro stems (Tidy Stems) on a tubing only / leader ban water. Using a short 3" braided hooklink its kind of no different to an elongated combi rig when you take the 3" fluro stem into account . . .
They are supplied with a little silicone sleeve to push the tubing into and create a seamless set up covering the connection to the fused loop on the top of the stem - I was using Rigmarole braided tubing with has no internal stretch (micro metal coil core) so after a fish / on a re-cast I'd simply snip the mainline and re-tie a pre-tied bag on with a palomar and slide the connecting sleeve over to cover the knot. . .with a wider bore rubber tubing however you may be able to get away with your loop to loop method dependant on line diameter and tubing bore stretch . . .tbf however a new palomar everytime is almost as quick IMO and still facilitates pre-tieing bags. . .
I 'got away' with using the Gemini PVA bag fluro stems (Tidy Stems) on a tubing only / leader ban water. Using a short 3" braided hooklink its kind of no different to an elongated combi rig when you take the 3" fluro stem into account . . .
They are supplied with a little silicone sleeve to push the tubing into and create a seamless set up covering the connection to the fused loop on the top of the stem - I was using Rigmarole braided tubing with has no internal stretch (micro metal coil core) so after a fish / on a re-cast I'd simply snip the mainline and re-tie a pre-tied bag on with a palomar and slide the connecting sleeve over to cover the knot. . .with a wider bore rubber tubing however you may be able to get away with your loop to loop method dependant on line diameter and tubing bore stretch . . .tbf however a new palomar everytime is almost as quick IMO and still facilitates pre-tieing bags. . .
In reply to Post #1
Im in exactly the same boat - I did ask if I could use stems like the gemini/avid ones with the drop-off leads with a slot in them, but was told no for those too, even though theres YouTube videos of "known/sponsored" anglers using them on the same water.
That said my preferred setup is to use a short 6" length of lead-free leader with a big ring swivel spliced on one end, and a small loop spliced on the other, I use them with an inline lead by pushing the barrel of the swivel into the bottom of the inline lead, then pull the lead-free leader round the outside of the lead and trap it with the rubber sleeve. I tie the lead free leader on with a grinner knot to the mainline, slide the rig tube down to the grinner knot and cover the join with some silicon tubing.
But none of them are allowed on my syndicate. So, the only way round it Ive found for pre-tied bags is to use the Korda hybrid lead clips - where the swivel is fused into the lead clip and there's a loop to attach your mainline. It's a bit more fiddly, but with practice does work. So once my bags are pre-tied, all you can see is the last cm or so of the lead clip sticking out, and I can just tie on my mainline and slide the rig tube and rubber sleeve down. On my water you also have to trim the lead clip back so that the leads drop off on a take, but I can still pre-tie them that way even with my fat fingers.Using PVA string rather than just twisting helps as there isn't much room to work with using these lead-clips.
Personally Id prefer an inline lead for PVA bags as I like the instant hit from the lead rather than the flexibility in the lead-clip arrangement, but Im not one for breaking rules.
As for using the loop-to-loop - I don't bother with that - I can tie a 5 turn grinner in seconds with my eyes closed just by feel of the line in my fingers - the only thing I do struggle with these days is my eye sight is going (reading glasses), so getting the mainline through a loop probably takes longer than tying the knot
Not sure if you do this already - but a top tip if you're tying your pre-made bags on, before cutting off a pre-tied PVA bag you've tied on, just slide your rig tubing up and tie a small figure of 8 loop in your mainline, then cut your mainline between the figure of 8 loop and your pre-tied rig - that way the rig tubing won't slide off while you sort yourself out with a new pre-tied bag. I do the same if I have one in the net and cant get the hook out, saves hassles with your rod/mainline attached when lifting the fish out of the water etc.
Im in exactly the same boat - I did ask if I could use stems like the gemini/avid ones with the drop-off leads with a slot in them, but was told no for those too, even though theres YouTube videos of "known/sponsored" anglers using them on the same water.
That said my preferred setup is to use a short 6" length of lead-free leader with a big ring swivel spliced on one end, and a small loop spliced on the other, I use them with an inline lead by pushing the barrel of the swivel into the bottom of the inline lead, then pull the lead-free leader round the outside of the lead and trap it with the rubber sleeve. I tie the lead free leader on with a grinner knot to the mainline, slide the rig tube down to the grinner knot and cover the join with some silicon tubing.
But none of them are allowed on my syndicate. So, the only way round it Ive found for pre-tied bags is to use the Korda hybrid lead clips - where the swivel is fused into the lead clip and there's a loop to attach your mainline. It's a bit more fiddly, but with practice does work. So once my bags are pre-tied, all you can see is the last cm or so of the lead clip sticking out, and I can just tie on my mainline and slide the rig tube and rubber sleeve down. On my water you also have to trim the lead clip back so that the leads drop off on a take, but I can still pre-tie them that way even with my fat fingers.Using PVA string rather than just twisting helps as there isn't much room to work with using these lead-clips.
Personally Id prefer an inline lead for PVA bags as I like the instant hit from the lead rather than the flexibility in the lead-clip arrangement, but Im not one for breaking rules.
As for using the loop-to-loop - I don't bother with that - I can tie a 5 turn grinner in seconds with my eyes closed just by feel of the line in my fingers - the only thing I do struggle with these days is my eye sight is going (reading glasses), so getting the mainline through a loop probably takes longer than tying the knot
Not sure if you do this already - but a top tip if you're tying your pre-made bags on, before cutting off a pre-tied PVA bag you've tied on, just slide your rig tubing up and tie a small figure of 8 loop in your mainline, then cut your mainline between the figure of 8 loop and your pre-tied rig - that way the rig tubing won't slide off while you sort yourself out with a new pre-tied bag. I do the same if I have one in the net and cant get the hook out, saves hassles with your rod/mainline attached when lifting the fish out of the water etc.