I have started to use this rig using Korda ones just wanted to know how do I stop the hair loop with ring on moving then going flat against the hook there's nothing to stop it pulling back or is it suppose to be like that
Using a hook bead on the top of the loop. I don't use them for this purpose as it's a lot of long range work at the moment and don't trust them not fishing.
I use a kicker or a tiny bit of silicone tube over top of shank and eye, holds it in place nicely.
In reply to Post #3
I would have thought that Korda would have done this as these rigs are supposed to be ready to go this is the first time I bought ready made rigs in 40 years carp fishing hate making rigs now
I would have thought that Korda would have done this as these rigs are supposed to be ready to go this is the first time I bought ready made rigs in 40 years carp fishing hate making rigs now
In reply to Post #4
It doesn't need silicon or a kicker. My advice would be tie one up for yourself. It's two overhand loops, easiest of all to tie. That way you can match the diameter of the hook eye to the diameter of the coated braid. If you are concerned about it slipping then make it a tight fit.
It doesn't need silicon or a kicker. My advice would be tie one up for yourself. It's two overhand loops, easiest of all to tie. That way you can match the diameter of the hook eye to the diameter of the coated braid. If you are concerned about it slipping then make it a tight fit.
In reply to Post #5
As I said I don't want to make rigs I know how there made I've bought a few Korda ready ones I don't want to go and buy hooks and material i think I will tie some dentel floss material to hook thanks everyone for help
As I said I don't want to make rigs I know how there made I've bought a few Korda ready ones I don't want to go and buy hooks and material i think I will tie some dentel floss material to hook thanks everyone for help
In reply to Post #5
I agree it dosent need them i think it improves it slightly and hook catches better.
I agree it dosent need them i think it improves it slightly and hook catches better.
In reply to Post #1
I don't use the traditional multi, but on my multi hinge rig, I have a small korda hook bead on left side of eye and on the d I use their long range ones tight to eye which not only holds in place but also helps keeps that d and also when you get a fish it stops any pressure being applied to the loop onto the eye when it goes tight to the long range bead. can send you a picture if you DM me your whatsapp number
I don't use the traditional multi, but on my multi hinge rig, I have a small korda hook bead on left side of eye and on the d I use their long range ones tight to eye which not only holds in place but also helps keeps that d and also when you get a fish it stops any pressure being applied to the loop onto the eye when it goes tight to the long range bead. can send you a picture if you DM me your whatsapp number
In reply to Post #1
You could wedge a section of pva nugget behind the loop so it doesnt flatten on the cast
You could wedge a section of pva nugget behind the loop so it doesnt flatten on the cast
In reply to Post #1
On all my own multi-rigs I slide a piece of tubing to butt up against the eye to prevent the hooklink and ring pulling tight to the eye.
On all my own multi-rigs I slide a piece of tubing to butt up against the eye to prevent the hooklink and ring pulling tight to the eye.
I thought that one of the perceived advantages of the multirig is that you can see when you've been 'done' by the loop having closed?
I'm only going by what users have said to me.
I'm only going by what users have said to me.
In reply to Post #10
You've got to wonder how many times fish have been caught on a multi where the bait is by the eye, leaving it fishing like a side hooked boiile?
I use a tiny bit of shrink tube over the eye to make it less likely to pull tight.
You've got to wonder how many times fish have been caught on a multi where the bait is by the eye, leaving it fishing like a side hooked boiile?
I use a tiny bit of shrink tube over the eye to make it less likely to pull tight.
I use to struggle with hook holds in the multi-rig, if your on Facebook take a look at Julian Cundiff's multi-rig, i think personally the components he uses are the best version of it.
In reply to Post #10
I forgot to say, I'm also putting absolutely everything in a PVA bag;
The hook goes in and then point is poking out through the bottom corner, the lead in the opposite corner, then I fill it up with a mix of crumbed boilies and Vitalin, then I gently pull the lead up to just below the level of crumb so the hooklink is tangle free. The bag is then sealed shut, with a lick and stick.
Hookholds with a braided hooklink have been proper, around 20millimetres inside the mouth and definitely needing forceps to get out.
I've been using small critically balanced hookbaits, a couple of meshed 8mm pop-ups and wafters (RH Naturalz), over that PVA bag and quite often a bucket of spod mix, Vitalin or birdfood.
I forgot to say, I'm also putting absolutely everything in a PVA bag;
The hook goes in and then point is poking out through the bottom corner, the lead in the opposite corner, then I fill it up with a mix of crumbed boilies and Vitalin, then I gently pull the lead up to just below the level of crumb so the hooklink is tangle free. The bag is then sealed shut, with a lick and stick.
Hookholds with a braided hooklink have been proper, around 20millimetres inside the mouth and definitely needing forceps to get out.
I've been using small critically balanced hookbaits, a couple of meshed 8mm pop-ups and wafters (RH Naturalz), over that PVA bag and quite often a bucket of spod mix, Vitalin or birdfood.
In reply to Post #1
Hook bead. Used it for years like this, although now I normally fish multi hinge rigs but the beads work perfectly to stop the loop pulling tight.
Hook bead. Used it for years like this, although now I normally fish multi hinge rigs but the beads work perfectly to stop the loop pulling tight.