Morning all
I've always just stuck with grinners or palomars for attaching hook links to swivels although am keen to try using a figure of 8 to make changing the rig that tiny bit quicker when needed.
Having not used one before I want to be 100% on what I'm doing so I don't get it wrong and wish I hadn't bothered.
I was planning on either just attaching the loop to a quick change swivel and pushing a bit of plastic sleeve over the quick change part;
or
larks footing the figure of 8 through a swivel or ring?
I haven't used quick change swivels and can't find as much as I would like online. Do people use these for this purpose and has anyone ever experienced the hook link some how getting off?
Then with the larks foot method this seems like it would have the reduction in strength from the fig 8 and then a further reduction in strength for line pulling in to the line on the larks foot? Again, is this a method anyone uses and does anyone have any thoughts on its strength?
Thank you
Christian
I've always just stuck with grinners or palomars for attaching hook links to swivels although am keen to try using a figure of 8 to make changing the rig that tiny bit quicker when needed.
Having not used one before I want to be 100% on what I'm doing so I don't get it wrong and wish I hadn't bothered.
I was planning on either just attaching the loop to a quick change swivel and pushing a bit of plastic sleeve over the quick change part;
or
larks footing the figure of 8 through a swivel or ring?
I haven't used quick change swivels and can't find as much as I would like online. Do people use these for this purpose and has anyone ever experienced the hook link some how getting off?
Then with the larks foot method this seems like it would have the reduction in strength from the fig 8 and then a further reduction in strength for line pulling in to the line on the larks foot? Again, is this a method anyone uses and does anyone have any thoughts on its strength?
Thank you
Christian
Just get some quick change clips to go through the swivel and some sleeves to go over them. It's what I use and have the hook link on and off in seconds.
In reply to Post #1
I have seen a big fish lost through a loop to quicklink on Nazeing, I don't know whether it was a loop sliding off the quicklink, or the loop knot breaking.
Years ago when I was experimenting with Carp-R-Us Gizmos and Breakaway Mini Links I also lost a couple of fish when rubbers slipped free, allowing the rig to come off.
Personally for this reason I stick with knot to hooklink swivel. However if I want free movement with a fluorocarbon or mono hooklink I do use the Rapala loop knot, which I have never had give way on either fluorocarbon, 15 or 20lb Amnesia.
net knots rapala knot
I have seen a big fish lost through a loop to quicklink on Nazeing, I don't know whether it was a loop sliding off the quicklink, or the loop knot breaking.
Years ago when I was experimenting with Carp-R-Us Gizmos and Breakaway Mini Links I also lost a couple of fish when rubbers slipped free, allowing the rig to come off.
Personally for this reason I stick with knot to hooklink swivel. However if I want free movement with a fluorocarbon or mono hooklink I do use the Rapala loop knot, which I have never had give way on either fluorocarbon, 15 or 20lb Amnesia.
net knots rapala knot
I've used the figure of eight on 20lb coated braid hook links quite a lot.
And have never had it fail.
And have never had it fail.
I use a figure of eight and quick link for all of my rigs - inlines, heli's, leadclips.
Makes changing hooklinks a little easier and is handy to just pop them on/off at the start/end of the session. I secure the rig with an anti-tangle sleeve, with this in situ I can't see how it could become unhooked under tension with a fish on.
Makes changing hooklinks a little easier and is handy to just pop them on/off at the start/end of the session. I secure the rig with an anti-tangle sleeve, with this in situ I can't see how it could become unhooked under tension with a fish on.
In reply to Post #5
Same with me. If you want the loop to move freely swap the anti tangle sleeve for a small rubber bead(3-4mm). Takes seconds to change hook links and you can easily lose the lead and mainline with a fish in the net. Safer for the fish.
Same with me. If you want the loop to move freely swap the anti tangle sleeve for a small rubber bead(3-4mm). Takes seconds to change hook links and you can easily lose the lead and mainline with a fish in the net. Safer for the fish.
In reply to Post #1
Figure of 8 for me with braid, fasten to swivels with a loop, double up the braid if that makes sense
Figure of 8 for me with braid, fasten to swivels with a loop, double up the braid if that makes sense
I just use "Q" rings, it was one of the best tips I was shown a few years ago instead of using quick link swivels etc.
At first I did not like them as I found them very small and fiddly, but after a while and you get your "muscle memory" developed on connecting a rig, they are simple to use, small, neat and tidy and if added to a swivel, very flexible without the added weight of a quick link.
https://www.banktackle.co.uk/q-rings-1964-p.asp
At first I did not like them as I found them very small and fiddly, but after a while and you get your "muscle memory" developed on connecting a rig, they are simple to use, small, neat and tidy and if added to a swivel, very flexible without the added weight of a quick link.
https://www.banktackle.co.uk/q-rings-1964-p.asp
In reply to Post #9
How much more does a quick link weigh? Considering we also attach 50+ grams of lead to the set up.
How much more does a quick link weigh? Considering we also attach 50+ grams of lead to the set up.
In reply to Post #10
If I had my notebook handy, I could tell you exactly the difference in weight disparity between a quick ling and a "Q" ring in milligrams. I prefer my hook rigs to be as light and flexible as possible so as not to have any chance of spooking the wary fish that I fish for on my lake and if I can shave off a few milligrams so much the better and if the components are smaller as well and less visible, even more the better.
As for the lead, that is not part of the hook length and it plays its part after the rig has done its job of tricking the fish to take the bait and to start moving off. Its not as if your attaching the lead, quarter of an inch away from the hook and making the hook length to heavy for a fish to suck the bait up!!!
If I had my notebook handy, I could tell you exactly the difference in weight disparity between a quick ling and a "Q" ring in milligrams. I prefer my hook rigs to be as light and flexible as possible so as not to have any chance of spooking the wary fish that I fish for on my lake and if I can shave off a few milligrams so much the better and if the components are smaller as well and less visible, even more the better.
As for the lead, that is not part of the hook length and it plays its part after the rig has done its job of tricking the fish to take the bait and to start moving off. Its not as if your attaching the lead, quarter of an inch away from the hook and making the hook length to heavy for a fish to suck the bait up!!!
In reply to Post #11
When you have the notebook handy, can you please let us know the difference, in milligrams.
When you have the notebook handy, can you please let us know the difference, in milligrams.
It will not be before late August until I dig the carp tackle out as I don't bother with the Summer months and early Autumn and I have to many other things on on till then, October time is when I usually start.
In reply to Post #13
Cheers all, happily using the figure of 8 now and no issues. Eventually settled on the ESP rig sleeves and they seem to sit nice and tight on the swivel and knot, don't think its ever coming off.
Cheers all, happily using the figure of 8 now and no issues. Eventually settled on the ESP rig sleeves and they seem to sit nice and tight on the swivel and knot, don't think its ever coming off.
In reply to Post #14
I use an esp tungsten loaded bead as the “lock” on a qc swivel
I use an esp tungsten loaded bead as the “lock” on a qc swivel