Hi guys, I'm fishing a little deep water (30ft). Some strange rules running rigs only and no braided hook links, any tips on best way to present rig. 
In reply to Post #1
What exactly do you need to know? The rules are there, abide by them. Simple really. If that sounds unhelpful I'd suggest using a light, 1oz lead and sinking the line properly. Use an ultra light bobbin.
What exactly do you need to know? The rules are there, abide by them. Simple really. If that sounds unhelpful I'd suggest using a light, 1oz lead and sinking the line properly. Use an ultra light bobbin.
In reply to Post #1
By running rigs I take it the rules simply mean the lead must be free to run up and down the line, not semi-fixed.
You can fish a running lead on a run ring with a tight line, but it then becomes a bolt rig, not running in the truest sense. For that a fairly heavy indicator.
A real running lead is fished with a slack line, the line so slack it touches the bottom of every rod ring.
There are a few trains of thought on this; fish with as light a lead as possible, say 1oz. As the fish moves and tightens the line, the small lead as it starts to move pulls the hook in, preventing ejection.
The opposite is fish it with a heavy lead, as the line tightens, the lead stays still giving you a proper run to wind and tighten down to.
Personally I prefer the heavy lead approach, usually 3 or 3.5oz.
For both of those, your indicator dropped straight down, at maximum drop. (The exception to that could be a Fox Swinger that is zero weighted)
Next thing, and this caused some argument in the past, DO NOT use a lead clip for running leads. The hole bore is not large enough for the line to pass through comfortably, and next thing that small hole can easily get jammed up with weed or rubbish off the lakebed.
By running rigs I take it the rules simply mean the lead must be free to run up and down the line, not semi-fixed.
You can fish a running lead on a run ring with a tight line, but it then becomes a bolt rig, not running in the truest sense. For that a fairly heavy indicator.
A real running lead is fished with a slack line, the line so slack it touches the bottom of every rod ring.
There are a few trains of thought on this; fish with as light a lead as possible, say 1oz. As the fish moves and tightens the line, the small lead as it starts to move pulls the hook in, preventing ejection.
The opposite is fish it with a heavy lead, as the line tightens, the lead stays still giving you a proper run to wind and tighten down to.
Personally I prefer the heavy lead approach, usually 3 or 3.5oz.
For both of those, your indicator dropped straight down, at maximum drop. (The exception to that could be a Fox Swinger that is zero weighted)
Next thing, and this caused some argument in the past, DO NOT use a lead clip for running leads. The hole bore is not large enough for the line to pass through comfortably, and next thing that small hole can easily get jammed up with weed or rubbish off the lakebed.
In reply to Post #3
A real running lead is fished with a slack line, the line so slack it touches the bottom of every rod ring
The ONLY indication you get with this set up is when a fish goes screaming out the swim in a massive panic which spooks every other fish in a 30mtr radius...
Absolute ballcocks!!!
You can floater fish and cohearse hooked fish out the swim without spooking others. Thisis the same indication you should be looking / striving for on a static set up. The above is certainly not one of them!!
A 'balanced'set up is far better!!
A real running lead is fished with a slack line, the line so slack it touches the bottom of every rod ring
The ONLY indication you get with this set up is when a fish goes screaming out the swim in a massive panic which spooks every other fish in a 30mtr radius...
Absolute ballcocks!!!
You can floater fish and cohearse hooked fish out the swim without spooking others. Thisis the same indication you should be looking / striving for on a static set up. The above is certainly not one of them!!
A 'balanced'set up is far better!!
In reply to Post #3
WTF did I just write? You're like some effing parrot, haven't you got a ***** forum to OCD on?
WTF did I just write? You're like some effing parrot, haven't you got a ***** forum to OCD on?
In reply to Post #4
Sorry Mate,
You actually pick up every indication of any movement, not just screaming panic.
In many cases on running leads fish don't even know they are hooked, and you get a series of bleeps as the fish continue to feed and move along the bottom.
I've had takes within a few minutes of landing fish from that spot, so a recast and the slack line and running lead approach does not spook every fish in the vicinity❗️
In fact having watched takes on Semi-fixed set-ups, it is more likely the run will spook every other fish in the vicinity.
The running lead and slack lines are Moorsey's and Ken T's favoured approach. Ken has put pics up, explaining it.
Sorry Mate,
You actually pick up every indication of any movement, not just screaming panic.
In many cases on running leads fish don't even know they are hooked, and you get a series of bleeps as the fish continue to feed and move along the bottom.
I've had takes within a few minutes of landing fish from that spot, so a recast and the slack line and running lead approach does not spook every fish in the vicinity❗️
In fact having watched takes on Semi-fixed set-ups, it is more likely the run will spook every other fish in the vicinity.
The running lead and slack lines are Moorsey's and Ken T's favoured approach. Ken has put pics up, explaining it.
In reply to Post #6
Makes sense to me....
Makes sense to me....
In reply to Post #6
Hi NIck,
I was a committed tight line, fixed, heavy lead user until I joined this forum in 2006. I then came across KM's slack line method and after quite a while convincing myself that it wasn't all hokum, took Keith's advice and went on to light running rigs on a slack line (fluoro or heavy sinking braid). I have used this method almost exclusively ever since, and I have caught a few these past 13 years!
One thing I have to stress (as does Keith). This method really only works with a very dense, heavy reel line. It does not lend itself to monos of any description.
Those who rubbish the approach do so out of either inexperience or ignorance. I was as sceptical as the next man and poo-poo'd the tactic on a regular basis until KM's rigid insistence that I persevere paid off and I became a convert and have remained one to this day.
Hi NIck,
I was a committed tight line, fixed, heavy lead user until I joined this forum in 2006. I then came across KM's slack line method and after quite a while convincing myself that it wasn't all hokum, took Keith's advice and went on to light running rigs on a slack line (fluoro or heavy sinking braid). I have used this method almost exclusively ever since, and I have caught a few these past 13 years!
One thing I have to stress (as does Keith). This method really only works with a very dense, heavy reel line. It does not lend itself to monos of any description.
Those who rubbish the approach do so out of either inexperience or ignorance. I was as sceptical as the next man and poo-poo'd the tactic on a regular basis until KM's rigid insistence that I persevere paid off and I became a convert and have remained one to this day.
In reply to Post #1
Where the fish are and I'd say the majority of the time it won't be on the bottom but in the thermocline they feel best in. I used to fish a reservoir around the same depth, the fish could be caught at different depths at different times of year but rarely on the bottom.
Personally I'd be trying zigs and if bottom baiting square leads that will not slip if steep sided. You can easily tight line to a zig on a running lead.
Where the fish are and I'd say the majority of the time it won't be on the bottom but in the thermocline they feel best in. I used to fish a reservoir around the same depth, the fish could be caught at different depths at different times of year but rarely on the bottom.
Personally I'd be trying zigs and if bottom baiting square leads that will not slip if steep sided. You can easily tight line to a zig on a running lead.
In reply to Post #9
I have used flouro for the best part of 10years. I got on the original Pline halo and I can honestly say that the best indication I have found is with a balanced light bobbin set up. It matters not what you have at the lead end (lead clip, in-line lead, running rig etc) as soon as that rig moves and the line moves, that bobbin lifts full stop..!!
I would also add that this is irrespective of which way the fish swims also, that bobbin lifts.
Having the line draping between the rings and a bobbin on the deck will register no bleeps until all that unecessary slack has been taken up.
Just to clarify, by balanced I mean that the bobbin has just enough weight to counteract the tension and diplacement of the line in the water when properly sunk.
I have used flouro for the best part of 10years. I got on the original Pline halo and I can honestly say that the best indication I have found is with a balanced light bobbin set up. It matters not what you have at the lead end (lead clip, in-line lead, running rig etc) as soon as that rig moves and the line moves, that bobbin lifts full stop..!!
I would also add that this is irrespective of which way the fish swims also, that bobbin lifts.
Having the line draping between the rings and a bobbin on the deck will register no bleeps until all that unecessary slack has been taken up.
Just to clarify, by balanced I mean that the bobbin has just enough weight to counteract the tension and diplacement of the line in the water when properly sunk.
In reply to Post #11
100% agree that the lead arrangement is of no consequence when using a light bobbin. Most bobbins are too heavy for this approach IMO.
100% agree that the lead arrangement is of no consequence when using a light bobbin. Most bobbins are too heavy for this approach IMO.
In reply to Post #9
Hi ken , what about a heavy 20lb mono , something like .43mm ? Surely this would have the desired effect ?
Hi ken , what about a heavy 20lb mono , something like .43mm ? Surely this would have the desired effect ?
In reply to Post #13
IMHO - The thickness of the mono is of no consequence really, it's the S.G. that determines it's ability to sink quickly.
IMHO - The thickness of the mono is of no consequence really, it's the S.G. that determines it's ability to sink quickly.
In reply to Post #1
I always use a running rig, and fish semi slack lines. I've just gone over to using Jag Safeliner bobbins as they are nice and light. Have no problems whatsoever.
I always use a running rig, and fish semi slack lines. I've just gone over to using Jag Safeliner bobbins as they are nice and light. Have no problems whatsoever.