In reply to Post #122
no such thing as running club, its a semi fixed club
no such thing as running club, its a semi fixed club
In reply to Post #121
Haven't read that book myself so must have been somewhere else I read that. It's going to bug me now...
I get your point about the loose lead clips still being available, they aren't the only dodgy item of end tackle on sale still either, but that's not the point. Just because something is available, doesn't mean we should use it. It's our place to act responsibly, not the tackle companies to make us..
Haven't read that book myself so must have been somewhere else I read that. It's going to bug me now...
I get your point about the loose lead clips still being available, they aren't the only dodgy item of end tackle on sale still either, but that's not the point. Just because something is available, doesn't mean we should use it. It's our place to act responsibly, not the tackle companies to make us..
In reply to Post #1
LOLz .
Just got home and read the posts from today.
Now I'm really confused.
LOLz .
Just got home and read the posts from today.
Now I'm really confused.
In reply to Post #125
What are you confused about Danny?
What are you confused about Danny?
In reply to Post #93
Hi mate,
Acceptable, yes. Much better than fixed in my opinion.
Not read anything I haven't seen before.
I know the argument against a running lead clip and I think it's valid, but I think it's overblown.
I think the reasons I gave in post 9 (can't be ars*d to retype, copy\paste) outweigh that particular argument, and overall a running leadclip is safer.
However, if leadclips suddenly became banned I would be very happy, because most people use them fixed.
If you use a barbless hook all of this becomes irrelevant anyway!
Yikes, what have i done.
Hi mate,
Acceptable, yes. Much better than fixed in my opinion.
Not read anything I haven't seen before.
I know the argument against a running lead clip and I think it's valid, but I think it's overblown.
I think the reasons I gave in post 9 (can't be ars*d to retype, copy\paste) outweigh that particular argument, and overall a running leadclip is safer.
However, if leadclips suddenly became banned I would be very happy, because most people use them fixed.
If you use a barbless hook all of this becomes irrelevant anyway!
Yikes, what have i done.
In reply to Post #123
eply to Post #121
Running club or fixed club?
ply to Post #122
no such thing as running club, its a semi fixed club
Is that semi-fixed by a wrist strap?😖😅
eply to Post #121
Running club or fixed club?
ply to Post #122
no such thing as running club, its a semi fixed club
Is that semi-fixed by a wrist strap?😖😅
In reply to Post #127
Does a barbless hook stop that definitely though? I'm sure I remember Ken postiing about how he gave demo's of playing fish on barbless hooks, letting the line go completely slack, and then tightening up to prove the fish is still hooked. Plus, if a fish becomes tethered then it may well keep pulling until it either runs out of steam, or the hook tears out which is the same for both barbed and barbless. With a fixed clip the clip and or lead is only the length of the hooklink away from the fish, meaning there is less to snag up. If you have a running clip then that could be many yards of line its towing about, which gives more potential to snag up
Does a barbless hook stop that definitely though? I'm sure I remember Ken postiing about how he gave demo's of playing fish on barbless hooks, letting the line go completely slack, and then tightening up to prove the fish is still hooked. Plus, if a fish becomes tethered then it may well keep pulling until it either runs out of steam, or the hook tears out which is the same for both barbed and barbless. With a fixed clip the clip and or lead is only the length of the hooklink away from the fish, meaning there is less to snag up. If you have a running clip then that could be many yards of line its towing about, which gives more potential to snag up
In reply to Post #127
Does a barbless hook stop that definitely though? I'm sure I remember Ken postiing about how he gave demo's of playing fish on barbless hooks, letting the line go completely slack, and then tightening up to prove the fish is still hooked. Plus, if a fish becomes tethered then it may well keep pulling until it either runs out of steam, or the hook tears out which is the same for both barbed and barbless. With a fixed clip the clip and or lead is only the length of the hooklink away from the fish, meaning there is less to snag up. If you have a running clip then that could be many yards of line its towing about, which gives more potential to snag up
Does a barbless hook stop that definitely though? I'm sure I remember Ken postiing about how he gave demo's of playing fish on barbless hooks, letting the line go completely slack, and then tightening up to prove the fish is still hooked. Plus, if a fish becomes tethered then it may well keep pulling until it either runs out of steam, or the hook tears out which is the same for both barbed and barbless. With a fixed clip the clip and or lead is only the length of the hooklink away from the fish, meaning there is less to snag up. If you have a running clip then that could be many yards of line its towing about, which gives more potential to snag up
I dont think ive ever been so confused about lead clips in my life.
The set up im using at the moment is.
15lb main line 12 inches of tungsten tubing tail rubber lead clip and a swivel that clips into the lead clip. Thread a pva bag on hooklink attach to quickcahnge swivel and cast out.
If ive read this thread correctly then this set up im using is not safe.?
If my mainline brakes above the tubing it gets tangled, and the swivel in the leadclip pulled out on the bite, so therefore my lead wont drop off as there is no pressure on my lead clip.?
Am i right in thinking that the solution to this is to buy the leadclips that contain a peg to stop the swivel comeing out on the bite.?
This makes my rig safe now as the lead can use the locked in swivel for leverage.?
The set up im using at the moment is.
15lb main line 12 inches of tungsten tubing tail rubber lead clip and a swivel that clips into the lead clip. Thread a pva bag on hooklink attach to quickcahnge swivel and cast out.
If ive read this thread correctly then this set up im using is not safe.?
If my mainline brakes above the tubing it gets tangled, and the swivel in the leadclip pulled out on the bite, so therefore my lead wont drop off as there is no pressure on my lead clip.?
Am i right in thinking that the solution to this is to buy the leadclips that contain a peg to stop the swivel comeing out on the bite.?
This makes my rig safe now as the lead can use the locked in swivel for leverage.?
In reply to Post #131
deleted
deleted
In reply to Post #132
apart from the fact that the knot/tangle will push the tail rubber on, stopping the lead discharging.
apart from the fact that the knot/tangle will push the tail rubber on, stopping the lead discharging.
In reply to Post #133
Something I had not considered! Pont taken, post deleted.
Something I had not considered! Pont taken, post deleted.
In reply to Post #134
deleting a post doesn't help the guy that asked a question - all hes got is my answer
deleting a post doesn't help the guy that asked a question - all hes got is my answer
In reply to Post #131
I dont think ive ever been so confused about lead clips in my life.
The set up im using at the moment is.
15lb main line 12 inches of tungsten tubing tail rubber lead clip and a swivel that clips into the lead clip. Thread a pva bag on hooklink attach to quickcahnge swivel and cast out.
If ive read this thread correctly then this set up im using is not safe.?
If my mainline brakes above the tubing it gets tangled, and the swivel in the leadclip pulled out on the bite, so therefore my lead wont drop off as there is no pressure on my lead clip.?
Am i right in thinking that the solution to this is to buy the leadclips that contain a peg to stop the swivel comeing out on the bite.?
The tied or pinned on leadclips are most definitely the best if you do need to eject the lead. I think the Korda 'click lock' lead clips are awful for a couple of reasons:
1. You have to buy Korda size 8 swivels. Despite being size 8, various different manufacturers have slightly different barrel sizes. Yet Korda swivels are more expensive than Mustad, Leeda or other non carp brands, which do have as good a breaking strain.
2. The click lock is not secure, it can pull free, as you pointed out, leaving a lead clip unable to eject the lead. In the event of a break and tangle above the leadclip or tubing, the internal bore stops the whole lot coming free of the line.
3. You CAN modify the Korda or cheap generic lead clips, by drilling a hole through them to fit a locking pin or tying them on. The correct spot is directly above where the lead attachment moulding goes back into the lead clip body.
4. Me personally, I am not a fan of leadclips at all. I prefer to use an original Kevin Maddocks style bolt rig. A run ring on the line with the line fished tight. While not a true semi-fixed lead, because the run ring can slide, it is a rig that will or originally did make the carp bolt.
I'm sorry if this goes over what I was trying to say earlier in the thread, but the 5mm hole in the run ring, even running on tubing, will go over most break-off knot and tangles.
I dont think ive ever been so confused about lead clips in my life.
The set up im using at the moment is.
15lb main line 12 inches of tungsten tubing tail rubber lead clip and a swivel that clips into the lead clip. Thread a pva bag on hooklink attach to quickcahnge swivel and cast out.
If ive read this thread correctly then this set up im using is not safe.?
If my mainline brakes above the tubing it gets tangled, and the swivel in the leadclip pulled out on the bite, so therefore my lead wont drop off as there is no pressure on my lead clip.?
Am i right in thinking that the solution to this is to buy the leadclips that contain a peg to stop the swivel comeing out on the bite.?
The tied or pinned on leadclips are most definitely the best if you do need to eject the lead. I think the Korda 'click lock' lead clips are awful for a couple of reasons:
1. You have to buy Korda size 8 swivels. Despite being size 8, various different manufacturers have slightly different barrel sizes. Yet Korda swivels are more expensive than Mustad, Leeda or other non carp brands, which do have as good a breaking strain.
2. The click lock is not secure, it can pull free, as you pointed out, leaving a lead clip unable to eject the lead. In the event of a break and tangle above the leadclip or tubing, the internal bore stops the whole lot coming free of the line.
3. You CAN modify the Korda or cheap generic lead clips, by drilling a hole through them to fit a locking pin or tying them on. The correct spot is directly above where the lead attachment moulding goes back into the lead clip body.
4. Me personally, I am not a fan of leadclips at all. I prefer to use an original Kevin Maddocks style bolt rig. A run ring on the line with the line fished tight. While not a true semi-fixed lead, because the run ring can slide, it is a rig that will or originally did make the carp bolt.
I'm sorry if this goes over what I was trying to say earlier in the thread, but the 5mm hole in the run ring, even running on tubing, will go over most break-off knot and tangles.
Lead clips or safety clips, are not something I've ever concerned myself with, and I've never lost fish as a consequence.
A lot of nonsense, subject to opinion.
A lot of nonsense, subject to opinion.