In reply to Post #29
The ESP smooth peg clip was probably slightly easier. The Korda and Fox all have indentations or ridges to hold the tail rubber in place.
The ESP smooth peg clip was probably slightly easier. The Korda and Fox all have indentations or ridges to hold the tail rubber in place.
In reply to Post #31
Not what I was thinking about I'm talking with and without swivel which one is more efficient at dropping the lead?
Not what I was thinking about I'm talking with and without swivel which one is more efficient at dropping the lead?
In reply to Post #28
You carry on advising folk to cut the swivel off then , me on the other hand will stick to my safe rigs thanks , can you prove you have tried this on these clips ? I wonder what Korda would say if you asked the question ? Like I've told you before , you're full of it, nobody believes you , crawl back to where you came from
You carry on advising folk to cut the swivel off then , me on the other hand will stick to my safe rigs thanks , can you prove you have tried this on these clips ? I wonder what Korda would say if you asked the question ? Like I've told you before , you're full of it, nobody believes you , crawl back to where you came from
PB products now do a lead with the brass loop put in the only right way, perpendicular. They are sold with a swivel, but promoted to be just as safe with or without the swivel. The brass loop is just as thin as the swivel, it even gives more room for movement and dislodgement than the swivel. Imo just as safe as with a swivel, but maybe a bit more direct.
Or you take a round sea lead and big hammer, that also works
Or you take a round sea lead and big hammer, that also works
In reply to Post #32
It makes very little difference, it all depends on the thickness of the wire and the hardness of the tail rubber. If you think about what has to happen for the lead to discharge it becomes obvious. The lead swivel, or loop, has to slide up the clip separating the main clip body from the attachment leg. The tail rubber needs to stretch slightly to allow this, once the swivel is bearing against the tail rubber any serrations on the clip come into play. If you want the lead to discharge easily use the leads with the thinnest wire swivel or loop on, and soft tail rubbers, and cut back the leg on the clip. All this is largely unnecessary in 95% of scenario's IMO. I would usually try to set a clip up so that the lead would be retained on all but the most violent takes, but would release if the fish ran through weed.
It makes very little difference, it all depends on the thickness of the wire and the hardness of the tail rubber. If you think about what has to happen for the lead to discharge it becomes obvious. The lead swivel, or loop, has to slide up the clip separating the main clip body from the attachment leg. The tail rubber needs to stretch slightly to allow this, once the swivel is bearing against the tail rubber any serrations on the clip come into play. If you want the lead to discharge easily use the leads with the thinnest wire swivel or loop on, and soft tail rubbers, and cut back the leg on the clip. All this is largely unnecessary in 95% of scenario's IMO. I would usually try to set a clip up so that the lead would be retained on all but the most violent takes, but would release if the fish ran through weed.
Was cutting the swivels off for as long as I can remember whilst using lead clips due to movement, never had any problems with it.
Now though I use Ring Leads, thinner gauge than the brass loop with minimal movement. I feel I get the best of both worlds now.
Now though I use Ring Leads, thinner gauge than the brass loop with minimal movement. I feel I get the best of both worlds now.
In reply to Post #33
I cut the swivels off and replace with a small split ring. It discharges off the lead clip with no issues and has the added benefit of being able to straighten out and discharge the lead if you ever have to pull for a break (if the lead is trapped).
I cut the swivels off and replace with a small split ring. It discharges off the lead clip with no issues and has the added benefit of being able to straighten out and discharge the lead if you ever have to pull for a break (if the lead is trapped).
In reply to Post #32
Not what I was thinking about I'm talking with and without swivel which one is more efficient at dropping the lead?
Sorry, my mistake.
With no swivel!
The swivel actually gave the 'lift' extra movement so the lead would stay on a fraction longer
Was cutting the swivels off for as long as I can remember whilst using lead clips due to movement, never had any problems with it.
Now though I use Ring Leads, thinner gauge than the brass loop with minimal movement. I feel I get the best of both worlds now.
I have some of the Ring Leads, Taylors Lead Lounge, ebay specials.
They do go on my run rings quick links, or on the occasions I have to go to helicopter setups, but found they can be a bit fiddly at times.
In reply to Post #33
I cut the swivels off and replace with a small split ring. It discharges off the lead clip with no issues and has the added benefit of being able to straighten out and discharge the lead if you ever have to pull for a break (if the lead is trapped).
Phil,
If you want Leads with a small ring, try the company I mentioned above:
Taylors lead lounge leads
Not what I was thinking about I'm talking with and without swivel which one is more efficient at dropping the lead?
Sorry, my mistake.
With no swivel!
The swivel actually gave the 'lift' extra movement so the lead would stay on a fraction longer
Was cutting the swivels off for as long as I can remember whilst using lead clips due to movement, never had any problems with it.
Now though I use Ring Leads, thinner gauge than the brass loop with minimal movement. I feel I get the best of both worlds now.
I have some of the Ring Leads, Taylors Lead Lounge, ebay specials.
They do go on my run rings quick links, or on the occasions I have to go to helicopter setups, but found they can be a bit fiddly at times.
In reply to Post #33
I cut the swivels off and replace with a small split ring. It discharges off the lead clip with no issues and has the added benefit of being able to straighten out and discharge the lead if you ever have to pull for a break (if the lead is trapped).
Phil,
If you want Leads with a small ring, try the company I mentioned above:
Taylors lead lounge leads
In reply to Post #29
The ones I found to be better was the solar ones as they had a almost flat curve to them and the worst being nash as they looked almost completely closed and had a little bobbly bit that the swivel clipped over
The ones I found to be better was the solar ones as they had a almost flat curve to them and the worst being nash as they looked almost completely closed and had a little bobbly bit that the swivel clipped over
In reply to Post #39
I think the Nash design is so that the lead will discharge when conditions dictate it necessary. Will not discharge when a carp shakes its head. You have to use what suits your needs.
I think the Nash design is so that the lead will discharge when conditions dictate it necessary. Will not discharge when a carp shakes its head. You have to use what suits your needs.
In reply to Post #38
I have some of the Ring Leads, Taylors Lead Lounge,
All my Leads come from Taylors
I have some of the Ring Leads, Taylors Lead Lounge,
All my Leads come from Taylors
In reply to Post #11
Don't hate to point it out mate, just don't make out like it's gospel when it clearly isn't.
I've also watched plenty of fish in the edge and helicopters have worked just fine. I'd prefer an inline for that sort of fishing but the versatility of a helicopter rules the roost for anything out in the lake. The tiny difference it may make in hookups I believe is more than negated by the amount of times it will present better than anything else, leading to more opportunities in the long run.
I've watched fish do me over and over again on 5oz inlines... sometimes it just happens, but I'm not going to go and claim that inlines are crap.
In all the years I've used them I've experienced the lack of indication/kiting scenario once. Literally once. And I still got adequate indication to know I'd hooked one and landed the fish just fine..
Paisley may have written that how ever many years ago. If we're referring to writing as evidence, how about the hundreds of articles from anglers at the top of their game, the likes of Terry Hearn, Oz Holness, Nige Sharp etc etc. that use helicopters for the majority of their angling. I really don't think they would be using them if they caused the issues you suggest.
I find it all a bit confusing. You test everything, from dozens of mono's to every lead setup possible, have had 0 hookpulls since time began, but then admit to losing fish due to knots failing which is the most basic mistake imaginable
.
I haven't had a knot go whilst carping since I was fishing commercials as a school kid...
Don't hate to point it out mate, just don't make out like it's gospel when it clearly isn't.
I've also watched plenty of fish in the edge and helicopters have worked just fine. I'd prefer an inline for that sort of fishing but the versatility of a helicopter rules the roost for anything out in the lake. The tiny difference it may make in hookups I believe is more than negated by the amount of times it will present better than anything else, leading to more opportunities in the long run.
I've watched fish do me over and over again on 5oz inlines... sometimes it just happens, but I'm not going to go and claim that inlines are crap.
In all the years I've used them I've experienced the lack of indication/kiting scenario once. Literally once. And I still got adequate indication to know I'd hooked one and landed the fish just fine..
Paisley may have written that how ever many years ago. If we're referring to writing as evidence, how about the hundreds of articles from anglers at the top of their game, the likes of Terry Hearn, Oz Holness, Nige Sharp etc etc. that use helicopters for the majority of their angling. I really don't think they would be using them if they caused the issues you suggest.
I find it all a bit confusing. You test everything, from dozens of mono's to every lead setup possible, have had 0 hookpulls since time began, but then admit to losing fish due to knots failing which is the most basic mistake imaginable
.I haven't had a knot go whilst carping since I was fishing commercials as a school kid...
In reply to Post #42
In all the years I've used them I've experienced the lack of indication/kiting scenario once. Literally once. And I still got adequate indication to know I'd hooked one and landed the fish just fine.
Once is a lot imo. Never happened to me in 25 years.
In all the years I've used them I've experienced the lack of indication/kiting scenario once. Literally once. And I still got adequate indication to know I'd hooked one and landed the fish just fine.
Once is a lot imo. Never happened to me in 25 years.
In reply to Post #42
In all the years I've used them I've experienced the lack of indication/kiting scenario once. Literally once. And I still got adequate indication to know I'd hooked one and landed the fish just fine..
Sorry, I simply don't believe that. Please note, not because you are lying, but because you can't see every pick-up, dropped bait out in the water. I've watched fish eject baits and hooks in clear water up to 15 metres or so, any further than that or cloudy water you might not see it.
I've seen the kiting and lack of indication a few times, and it's not always blatantly apparent; if there is a fair breeze and you retrieve after a fish has made it say to a patch of weed in the arc, you might not know about it.
Some current anglers have written about lack of indication from helicopter set-ups on waters, I can remember an article on Wraysbury, with pictures describing the scenario above, sorry, I can not remember who wrote it.
Lewis Read has however written articles saying that anglers should be able to accept that at times they will need to swap lead arrangements.
Also I would say that ninety per cent of the time I will use a helicopter rig on leadcore, or a Chod arrangement, which also incorporates the helicopter style arrangement. This is my go-to lead set-up and I'll use it whenever I can When a named angler says that, it isn't considering the issues, (his non helicopter set up is when fishing the margins or weedy waters), not all of them understand or know the issues. Terry Hearn has mentioned the issues in articles.
My broken knot, a combi-rig, black Amnesia to Merlin. I'd just landed a fish, without thinking I cast it straight back. Next take minutes later I lost a fish, however, I had also landed a pike on the rig and checked it after, and didn't see any damage. It broke at the knot.
That last lost fish was at Brackens Pool, Nazeing, now I haven't fished Brackens since 2013 I think. Lesson learnt, since then I check every rig, knot etc, and test tackle before I even fish with it.
Basically, from every lost fish, I try to take care to avoid that happening again. I learn from it, I eliminate that item, that set-up, that rig, that situation from my fishing.
A classic example was fishing Ants on Brackens. I lost a couple of fish that made it to the snags to the left of the swim. Snags that if I had been able to tire the fish out in front in clear water they would have avoided. I was bringing fish towards them during the fight.
However they were still lively and went in there.
I was able to fish the same spot from another swim, and by hitting takes quickly from the other swim prevented them arcing in, and landed every fish that I got indication from for the rest of the session, a number of big 20's including one of the 'wanted list', the two tone scaley mirror.
At Alton Water, I did have a couple of lost fish, both to hooklink breakages, and both on helicopter set-ups. The bottom of the reservoir is littered with the remains of the old village. At times whole bricks, roofing tiles, metal guttering, even the old road culvert cause problems.
I found moving away from the slower indication of the helicopter lead in these swims, casting a bolt rig, (or running lead on a tight line), enabled me to land fish from a particular swim or two with no more problems.
In all the years I've used them I've experienced the lack of indication/kiting scenario once. Literally once. And I still got adequate indication to know I'd hooked one and landed the fish just fine..
Sorry, I simply don't believe that. Please note, not because you are lying, but because you can't see every pick-up, dropped bait out in the water. I've watched fish eject baits and hooks in clear water up to 15 metres or so, any further than that or cloudy water you might not see it.
I've seen the kiting and lack of indication a few times, and it's not always blatantly apparent; if there is a fair breeze and you retrieve after a fish has made it say to a patch of weed in the arc, you might not know about it.
Some current anglers have written about lack of indication from helicopter set-ups on waters, I can remember an article on Wraysbury, with pictures describing the scenario above, sorry, I can not remember who wrote it.
Lewis Read has however written articles saying that anglers should be able to accept that at times they will need to swap lead arrangements.
Also I would say that ninety per cent of the time I will use a helicopter rig on leadcore, or a Chod arrangement, which also incorporates the helicopter style arrangement. This is my go-to lead set-up and I'll use it whenever I can When a named angler says that, it isn't considering the issues, (his non helicopter set up is when fishing the margins or weedy waters), not all of them understand or know the issues. Terry Hearn has mentioned the issues in articles.
My broken knot, a combi-rig, black Amnesia to Merlin. I'd just landed a fish, without thinking I cast it straight back. Next take minutes later I lost a fish, however, I had also landed a pike on the rig and checked it after, and didn't see any damage. It broke at the knot.
That last lost fish was at Brackens Pool, Nazeing, now I haven't fished Brackens since 2013 I think. Lesson learnt, since then I check every rig, knot etc, and test tackle before I even fish with it.
Basically, from every lost fish, I try to take care to avoid that happening again. I learn from it, I eliminate that item, that set-up, that rig, that situation from my fishing.
A classic example was fishing Ants on Brackens. I lost a couple of fish that made it to the snags to the left of the swim. Snags that if I had been able to tire the fish out in front in clear water they would have avoided. I was bringing fish towards them during the fight.
However they were still lively and went in there.
I was able to fish the same spot from another swim, and by hitting takes quickly from the other swim prevented them arcing in, and landed every fish that I got indication from for the rest of the session, a number of big 20's including one of the 'wanted list', the two tone scaley mirror.
At Alton Water, I did have a couple of lost fish, both to hooklink breakages, and both on helicopter set-ups. The bottom of the reservoir is littered with the remains of the old village. At times whole bricks, roofing tiles, metal guttering, even the old road culvert cause problems.
I found moving away from the slower indication of the helicopter lead in these swims, casting a bolt rig, (or running lead on a tight line), enabled me to land fish from a particular swim or two with no more problems.
In reply to Post #44
