In reply to Post #15
Same, I use the small korda one and the larger on the loop side. Works a treat and help keeps loop shape and keeps the end of loop nice after landing a fish. Also the small bead doesn't move so you can get loop in exact same position every time
Same, I use the small korda one and the larger on the loop side. Works a treat and help keeps loop shape and keeps the end of loop nice after landing a fish. Also the small bead doesn't move so you can get loop in exact same position every time
It's just a matter of finding the right combination of hooklink and eye size. Experiment.
Avoid chod hook, as the eyes tend to be too large. I generally use size 6 continentals and 20-25lb coated braids. It should be hard to pull the loop through the eye to ensure it stays in place.
My favourite rig ever.
Avoid chod hook, as the eyes tend to be too large. I generally use size 6 continentals and 20-25lb coated braids. It should be hard to pull the loop through the eye to ensure it stays in place.
My favourite rig ever.
Tie a two/three bait stringer to the D and that will prevent it from slipping on the cast and have the benefit of a couple of freebies also 👍
In reply to Post #17
Totally agree
Totally agree
In reply to Post #18
The D should never slip anyway. The hookbait and where the wind resistance is dictates that unless you add weight to the hook, it'll never slip
The D should never slip anyway. The hookbait and where the wind resistance is dictates that unless you add weight to the hook, it'll never slip
In reply to Post #20
Don't see why you wouldn't have a bead either side anyway. No brainer
Don't see why you wouldn't have a bead either side anyway. No brainer
In reply to Post #21
If you've got confidence in it, why not.
Apart from a zig, i can count on one, (2 at best) hands how many times ive used a rig other than a multi rig in the last 9 or 10 years and i dont think that the loop has ever closed on the cast etc
If you've got confidence in it, why not.
Apart from a zig, i can count on one, (2 at best) hands how many times ive used a rig other than a multi rig in the last 9 or 10 years and i dont think that the loop has ever closed on the cast etc
In reply to Post #21
If you've got confidence in it, why not.
Apart from a zig, i can count on one, (2 at best) hands how many times ive used a rig other than a multi rig in the last 9 or 10 years and i dont think that the loop has ever closed on the cast etc
If you've got confidence in it, why not.
Apart from a zig, i can count on one, (2 at best) hands how many times ive used a rig other than a multi rig in the last 9 or 10 years and i dont think that the loop has ever closed on the cast etc
In reply to Post #23
I was late onto the Multi-rig, preferring more 'normal' presentations. I have had a few pull tight on playing fish (I think during the fight), but never reeled one in on a retrieve to recast that's pulled tight.
I was late onto the Multi-rig, preferring more 'normal' presentations. I have had a few pull tight on playing fish (I think during the fight), but never reeled one in on a retrieve to recast that's pulled tight.
See https://therigfactor.wordpress.com/2016/07/12/the-multi-rig-explained-part-three/
"When I was testing the hook loop mechanics at Harefield Lake in 2000, (yes it's that long ago!) I rigorously went through a casting out and reeling in process over and over again to check while using different hooks the loop hadn't slipped or moved. I did that by following the line from my rod tip and wading out with the line in my fingers to where the lead had landed and was able to see my hookbait on the bottom. Every time the loop on the shank was in exactly the position I put it in before casting out and that has been the case ever since. The reason for this is quite simple, air resistance on the hookbait /s during the cast prevents the loop from slipping out of position and water resistance takes over when the lead enters the lake and pulls the rig down to the bottom. The whole time the hookbait is being forced in the opposite direction to the lead which straightens the hooklink and prevents the loop from sliding forwards or backwards. However, if when you reel in the hook gets caught up on some weed or some other obstruction then the loop will obviously be pulled down to the eye. If and when that happens' you simply reset the loop to the desired position on the shank and recast."
"When I was testing the hook loop mechanics at Harefield Lake in 2000, (yes it's that long ago!) I rigorously went through a casting out and reeling in process over and over again to check while using different hooks the loop hadn't slipped or moved. I did that by following the line from my rod tip and wading out with the line in my fingers to where the lead had landed and was able to see my hookbait on the bottom. Every time the loop on the shank was in exactly the position I put it in before casting out and that has been the case ever since. The reason for this is quite simple, air resistance on the hookbait /s during the cast prevents the loop from slipping out of position and water resistance takes over when the lead enters the lake and pulls the rig down to the bottom. The whole time the hookbait is being forced in the opposite direction to the lead which straightens the hooklink and prevents the loop from sliding forwards or backwards. However, if when you reel in the hook gets caught up on some weed or some other obstruction then the loop will obviously be pulled down to the eye. If and when that happens' you simply reset the loop to the desired position on the shank and recast."
Only way the loop pulls tight is if the resistance of the loop going through the eye is exceeded by a greater pressure applied to the hook i.e. hooked fish, snarled up with weed on retrieve or potentially on the cast if used with a PVA bag of which the conventional multi-rig shouldn't be used with them anyway.
In reply to Post #17
ESP tungsten loaded 20lb and Cryogen Stiff Riggers in 6 are perfect for this
ESP tungsten loaded 20lb and Cryogen Stiff Riggers in 6 are perfect for this
Been using the combi multi almost exclusively for the last 18 months and I haven't had any issue with the D slipping. There is lots of weed in my near margin at the lake I fish and often my hook gets snarled up in the weed when retrieving, but even then it doesn't pull it tight.
ESP 1mm silicone tubing fits perfectly over size 5/6 hooks and holds it tight
ESP 1mm silicone tubing fits perfectly over size 5/6 hooks and holds it tight
In reply to Post #1
If you don't have confidence in the rig staying as it should cut a PVA nugget in half and slip it through the loop. no movement on the cast or until the rig is picked up.
If you don't have confidence in the rig staying as it should cut a PVA nugget in half and slip it through the loop. no movement on the cast or until the rig is picked up.
Hi everyone,
Just a brainwave this eve, has anyone tried shrinking over the entire upright section and knot. Reason I've tried it out is I want to keep a curve in this part as per a hinged stiff rig. I'm using ultra skin stiff so keeps it somewhat anyway. But just wanted some views and feedback on the pic below. Looks so similar to a ronnie now which puts me off, but really it is a multi
stop the clocks poem
Just a brainwave this eve, has anyone tried shrinking over the entire upright section and knot. Reason I've tried it out is I want to keep a curve in this part as per a hinged stiff rig. I'm using ultra skin stiff so keeps it somewhat anyway. But just wanted some views and feedback on the pic below. Looks so similar to a ronnie now which puts me off, but really it is a multi
stop the clocks poem