In reply to Post #13
Yes they are, which is why if leaders are needed then they should only be used on a Heli setup with a lead which doesn't drop off. Dropping leads on the take is daft and unnecessary and sing littering. It's nothing more than a far started by companies to sell more leads .
Yes they are, which is why if leaders are needed then they should only be used on a Heli setup with a lead which doesn't drop off. Dropping leads on the take is daft and unnecessary and sing littering. It's nothing more than a far started by companies to sell more leads .
In reply to Post #15
Even with naked heli setups, it only takes a tiny bit of weed to stop the hook link coming off the line.
But there is no truly safe setup, you can only do so much or give up!
Even with naked heli setups, it only takes a tiny bit of weed to stop the hook link coming off the line.
But there is no truly safe setup, you can only do so much or give up!
In reply to Post #13
In reply to Post #1
Can I ask, the video is saying about the lead core, or a leader for that matter, coming away from the hook link when you lock the lead in place. Ace, cool, perfect.
What about inline lead core set ups, lead safety clip set up, cog lead set up, inline drop off. Surely all are designed to drop the lead if snagged, but if your hooklink is on a leader of any type then they are all bad.
I argued the toss with Advanced Carp Fishing magazine years ago about pendant (running or lead clip) and inline set-ups incorporating leadcore that the leadcore itself is the risk in this case. The leadcore itself provides the weight, it always trails, even if the lead falls free. A trailing length of leadcore is a potential tether rig, it does catch up on snags, branches, even weed.
It was not just 'Nick arguing for the sake of arguing', as the editor insinuated, it was after I had lost a decent fish at Suffolk Water Park that cut me off above the leadcore on a running lead and so I experimented with various set-ups on leadcore, in a particular shallowish water, where if there was a problem, I could retrieve fish and tackle. I did have to go out chest deep to remove a fish tethered in snags in the middle of winter!
I came to the conclusion, that near any weed or snags, or in waters containing them, you should not be using a leader at all. If you fish in such situations that you need a shock or snag leader, should you really be fishing there?
A helicopter set-up on leadcore, mainline or leader relies on the lead staying in place for the rig to eject over the top of the leader knot or break-off, however, a jammed bead, caught on a twist or kink, even weeded up on leadcore can prevent the rig coming free.
I am not even keen on lead clips, they are too easily misused, for allowing the lead to fall off when there is no need, but even jamming the lead on totally, by pushing the rubber all the way up, or even gluing it in place, as some have done. Even the small bore of a lead clip can jam on a break if it concertina's and knots up, or fail to pass over a leader knot.
I much prefer going to a large bore run ring, which can get over either.
The most you want a fish trailing (which they can eject normally) is just the rig.
In reply to Post #1
Can I ask, the video is saying about the lead core, or a leader for that matter, coming away from the hook link when you lock the lead in place. Ace, cool, perfect.
What about inline lead core set ups, lead safety clip set up, cog lead set up, inline drop off. Surely all are designed to drop the lead if snagged, but if your hooklink is on a leader of any type then they are all bad.
I argued the toss with Advanced Carp Fishing magazine years ago about pendant (running or lead clip) and inline set-ups incorporating leadcore that the leadcore itself is the risk in this case. The leadcore itself provides the weight, it always trails, even if the lead falls free. A trailing length of leadcore is a potential tether rig, it does catch up on snags, branches, even weed.
It was not just 'Nick arguing for the sake of arguing', as the editor insinuated, it was after I had lost a decent fish at Suffolk Water Park that cut me off above the leadcore on a running lead and so I experimented with various set-ups on leadcore, in a particular shallowish water, where if there was a problem, I could retrieve fish and tackle. I did have to go out chest deep to remove a fish tethered in snags in the middle of winter!
I came to the conclusion, that near any weed or snags, or in waters containing them, you should not be using a leader at all. If you fish in such situations that you need a shock or snag leader, should you really be fishing there?
A helicopter set-up on leadcore, mainline or leader relies on the lead staying in place for the rig to eject over the top of the leader knot or break-off, however, a jammed bead, caught on a twist or kink, even weeded up on leadcore can prevent the rig coming free.
I am not even keen on lead clips, they are too easily misused, for allowing the lead to fall off when there is no need, but even jamming the lead on totally, by pushing the rubber all the way up, or even gluing it in place, as some have done. Even the small bore of a lead clip can jam on a break if it concertina's and knots up, or fail to pass over a leader knot.
I much prefer going to a large bore run ring, which can get over either.
The most you want a fish trailing (which they can eject normally) is just the rig.
I think we can all agree that any rig is dangerous to the carp, it's just a question of how dangerous we make it. No rig is fully safe. Tbh do we want the carp dragging along anything wether that be line or lead core or tubing as such? I think the best we can do is make our rigs as safe as possible and/or don't make bad decisions like fishing towards snags that you could lose a fish in or any other situation that a bad decision would put the carp in danger that we don't want to put it in.
I'd just like to add any leader or piece of tubing just makes the rig more dangerous, so if you can dispense with all the kerfuffle. Simple rigs catch carp and will save you money because you don't need to buy things like leaders or any extra bits.
I'd just like to add any leader or piece of tubing just makes the rig more dangerous, so if you can dispense with all the kerfuffle. Simple rigs catch carp and will save you money because you don't need to buy things like leaders or any extra bits.
In reply to Post #13
Your right
If you snap off with any leader (other than loose fit rig tubing) on any lead setup other than a helicopter setup (with the lead set to not drop off) then effectively you actual rig length is from the end of your leader to the hook.
Never thought of it like that I'll be changing to rig tubing or naked only from now on
Your right
If you snap off with any leader (other than loose fit rig tubing) on any lead setup other than a helicopter setup (with the lead set to not drop off) then effectively you actual rig length is from the end of your leader to the hook.Never thought of it like that I'll be changing to rig tubing or naked only from now on
In reply to Post #20
But, as mentioned, it doesn't take much to stop the hook length coming off on a naked setup.
Safest setup is 20lb mainline and an 8lb hook length.......
But, as mentioned, it doesn't take much to stop the hook length coming off on a naked setup.
Safest setup is 20lb mainline and an 8lb hook length.......
In reply to Post #21
I agree. Any hooklink that is weaker than the mainline is definately better then one that is stronger. Don't know why this has become a trend in carp fishing as in many other forms of fishing the hooklink is the majority of the time weaker than the mainline...
I agree. Any hooklink that is weaker than the mainline is definately better then one that is stronger. Don't know why this has become a trend in carp fishing as in many other forms of fishing the hooklink is the majority of the time weaker than the mainline...
In reply to Post #22
Probably because modern h ooklinks in 15lb would be like cheesewire, so people use stronger b.s. to get thicker hooklinks. Or because they are fishing in more extreme spots than we would have done years ago.
Probably because modern h ooklinks in 15lb would be like cheesewire, so people use stronger b.s. to get thicker hooklinks. Or because they are fishing in more extreme spots than we would have done years ago.
In reply to Post #23
But the hook link is unlikely to come into contact with any of these “extreme” things, being only 4-8” ish long. And we didn't see loads of moiety damage when we did use low bs mono/braids as hooklengths. But then braids tended to be flat.
Agree on the potential cheese wire effect with round braids though, but surely wouldn't be difficult to produce a thick coating on a fine braid.
But the hook link is unlikely to come into contact with any of these “extreme” things, being only 4-8” ish long. And we didn't see loads of moiety damage when we did use low bs mono/braids as hooklengths. But then braids tended to be flat.
Agree on the potential cheese wire effect with round braids though, but surely wouldn't be difficult to produce a thick coating on a fine braid.
In reply to Post #23
Surley this would only happen with a fine diameter braid? Matchmen use very light hooklengths even when fishing for low double figure carp, and thats with mono. I highly doubt that a light mono would cause a cheeswire effect. But I understand that a light braid might have that effect but to solve that you could just use a coated one? Big fish can be landed on light tackle, its just a question of how careful you are playing the fish, with the rod and not pulling too hard, and the reel by letting the fish take line when it wants to. The only risk about this is that there might be snags about, but in that situation you would normally use a stronger line to be able to get the fish out. So maybe its also a question about how safe you are fishing, and not making bad decisions that could put the fish in danger.
Surley this would only happen with a fine diameter braid? Matchmen use very light hooklengths even when fishing for low double figure carp, and thats with mono. I highly doubt that a light mono would cause a cheeswire effect. But I understand that a light braid might have that effect but to solve that you could just use a coated one? Big fish can be landed on light tackle, its just a question of how careful you are playing the fish, with the rod and not pulling too hard, and the reel by letting the fish take line when it wants to. The only risk about this is that there might be snags about, but in that situation you would normally use a stronger line to be able to get the fish out. So maybe its also a question about how safe you are fishing, and not making bad decisions that could put the fish in danger.