In reply to Post #15
Not very soft though is it, that's what the op asked for. Makes a great leader though.
Not very soft though is it, that's what the op asked for. Makes a great leader though.
I actually avoid carp tax fluorocarbon hooklink material, mine is Spiderwire in 15lb.
It does go through the eye three times for D-rigs with Muggas and Solar 101's
Another vote for IQ2 15lb here 
In reply to Post #5
Good for a d rig?
Want something to push my nuts out.
Good for a d rig?
Want something to push my nuts out.
The best is seaguar hands down, it's meant to be stiff and they make softer versions but the best value is just a bulk spool of 12-30lb fluoro mainline.
Or just use mono, which is softer and knots easier.
It's not like we are wading crystal clear flats is it, 8” of any .35 mono isn't sticking out.
Or just use mono, which is softer and knots easier.
It's not like we are wading crystal clear flats is it, 8” of any .35 mono isn't sticking out.
In reply to Post #5
I ordered a spool after reading your positive reply. Received it today and must say I'm very impressed! No steaming, high breaking strain at relative small diameter and knots like a dream. The 23.5lb has a nice stiffness to it, and passed my pulling test.
I ordered a spool after reading your positive reply. Received it today and must say I'm very impressed! No steaming, high breaking strain at relative small diameter and knots like a dream. The 23.5lb has a nice stiffness to it, and passed my pulling test.
In reply to Post #21
It's the only hooklink fluoro I will use these days. I thank Stef for putting me on to it when he worked in The Friendly Fisherman tackle shop in Tunbridge Wells.
It's the only hooklink fluoro I will use these days. I thank Stef for putting me on to it when he worked in The Friendly Fisherman tackle shop in Tunbridge Wells.
In reply to Post #17
Hi
can I ask which 1 cause there are several different names
T
Hi
can I ask which 1 cause there are several different names
T
In reply to Post #23
Post #5
Post #5
In reply to Post #15
that seaguar is crap.i tied a knot less knot with it on a mugga and it snapped at 8lb. Tried a chody and the same happened.tried a straight shank. The same.
I tried IQ2 in 15lb on a mugga and the hook began to straighten.yes it's a little thicker but rather that than 8lb knot strength
that seaguar is crap.i tied a knot less knot with it on a mugga and it snapped at 8lb. Tried a chody and the same happened.tried a straight shank. The same.
I tried IQ2 in 15lb on a mugga and the hook began to straighten.yes it's a little thicker but rather that than 8lb knot strength
In reply to Post #25
Hi Twier,
Do you start the whipping of the knotless knot to the opening of the hook eye? With a mono/fluorcarbon always make sure the first whip is on the bended side of the eye. This is because the opposite side has a sharp edge due the cutting of the wire of the hook, which can cause a cut-off. When you use a thicker fluorocarbon as you stated, this will be less prone to a cut-off at the sharp side of the hook eye.
Hi Twier,
Do you start the whipping of the knotless knot to the opening of the hook eye? With a mono/fluorcarbon always make sure the first whip is on the bended side of the eye. This is because the opposite side has a sharp edge due the cutting of the wire of the hook, which can cause a cut-off. When you use a thicker fluorocarbon as you stated, this will be less prone to a cut-off at the sharp side of the hook eye.
Rigmarole or Gardner are very good, didn't get on with Korda.
P-Line Shinsei. Miles better than any others I have used.
In reply to Post #26
Yeah I tried both ways on all 3 hook types.
Yeah I tried both ways on all 3 hook types.
In reply to Post #29
Which hooks ?
If they have in turned eyes ,
it can create a pinch point where the line exits the hook under pressure
Leading to breakages
Which hooks ?
If they have in turned eyes ,
it can create a pinch point where the line exits the hook under pressure
Leading to breakages