Does anyone else find this an absolute ball ache? Is there a fool proof method I'm missing out on? I've watched a few tutorials on YouTube and they seem to make it oh so easy. ( maybe editing comes in to play? Who knows? ) It seems to take me ages the needle is for ever coming out the side of the leader. Most of what I've watched there pushing the splicing leader through with the gate latch closed. That never works for me for some reason. I always have to open the latch and somehow hook the crook through manipulate it around. And after umpteen attempts at trying to push the needle through. Eventually succeeding with only minimal hair loss. The length of time this takes me to make one leader there is no way I'd be able to make these up on the bank. 
And after all that I have on occasion picked up the leader only for the splice to pull through. Arrrrŕrrrrggghh. Is there a minimal length of splice? Is superglue the answer?
It's getting to the stage where I might have to bite the bullet.And do something I never thought I'd have to do.. And that's buy ready makes...
And after all that I have on occasion picked up the leader only for the splice to pull through. Arrrrŕrrrrggghh. Is there a minimal length of splice? Is superglue the answer?It's getting to the stage where I might have to bite the bullet.And do something I never thought I'd have to do.. And that's buy ready makes...
In reply to Post #1
Try the Fox easy splice needle, it's more like a tube threader. I find it easier than the latch gate needles.
Try the Fox easy splice needle, it's more like a tube threader. I find it easier than the latch gate needles.
In reply to Post #2
Thanks, Ged. I'll give that one a look.
"EDIT" There was a little vid to go with it. Where the fella was splicing leadcore. Do you no if this will work with the thinner lead less materials.. looks good, though. No hook to get caught up.
Thanks, Ged. I'll give that one a look.
"EDIT" There was a little vid to go with it. Where the fella was splicing leadcore. Do you no if this will work with the thinner lead less materials.. looks good, though. No hook to get caught up.
In reply to Post #3
I've used it for a couple of different lead free braids and a couple of lead cores without any problems. I usually make up a few leaders at a time, the first takes a while, but once I've got a feel for it the rest are alot quicker.
I've used it for a couple of different lead free braids and a couple of lead cores without any problems. I usually make up a few leaders at a time, the first takes a while, but once I've got a feel for it the rest are alot quicker.
I found the fox threader to be a game changer tbh
In reply to Post #1
Once the needle is inside the braid, don't push the needle, push the braid onto the needle from the other direction. You should be able to loosen the weave enough to complete each splice in under a minute. I always do the full length of the needle and pull tight with a hook puller to secure. Materials I've found splice easily are Nash Cling-on, Fox Submerge and Avid Pindown. The worst one I've ever come across was the original Solar Contour, was god awful stuff!
Once the needle is inside the braid, don't push the needle, push the braid onto the needle from the other direction. You should be able to loosen the weave enough to complete each splice in under a minute. I always do the full length of the needle and pull tight with a hook puller to secure. Materials I've found splice easily are Nash Cling-on, Fox Submerge and Avid Pindown. The worst one I've ever come across was the original Solar Contour, was god awful stuff!
In reply to Post #1
As mentioned, use the Fox splicing tool and push the braid towards the needle, this then relax's the braid weave and you wont come out the side, if you know what i mean...
As mentioned, use the Fox splicing tool and push the braid towards the needle, this then relax's the braid weave and you wont come out the side, if you know what i mean...
don't use superglue - I have found that it has a habit of cracking once it's set & can lead to the tags pulling out afterwards - I had a few issues with it happening & they stopped once I stopped using it.
best advice fro splicing - as mentioned, push the braid along the needle, be gentle & take your time. once you get the hang of it, you can do them in no time at all - try & keep your tags at least 4 inches long & pull on them really tightly before using them so the outer grips the inner properly.
best advice fro splicing - as mentioned, push the braid along the needle, be gentle & take your time. once you get the hang of it, you can do them in no time at all - try & keep your tags at least 4 inches long & pull on them really tightly before using them so the outer grips the inner properly.
In reply to Post #8
Agree - also ensure you have enough leader material (at least an inch) doubled through to ensure a strong splice . . .I also blob the frayed excess with a lighter to ensure the material can never be pulled through but still streamlined enough for beads to pass over etc
Agree - also ensure you have enough leader material (at least an inch) doubled through to ensure a strong splice . . .I also blob the frayed excess with a lighter to ensure the material can never be pulled through but still streamlined enough for beads to pass over etc
In reply to Post #8
I went other way- I dont trust the splices without superglue. Found they randomly slip and I use a long splice but i use leadless types so not sure if more prone to slip? Do gently blob end too.
I dont think the added security of the glue has an untoward effect? Just re apply glue and they last me ages.
I went other way- I dont trust the splices without superglue. Found they randomly slip and I use a long splice but i use leadless types so not sure if more prone to slip? Do gently blob end too.
I dont think the added security of the glue has an untoward effect? Just re apply glue and they last me ages.
Its the nature of the materials, Dyneema, Spectra, kevlar have the some of the lowest coefficent of friction and PTFE tops them all and the standard splice relies on friction.
Ive never used any of these type leaders with the splices loops - If you want to try an alternative splice then the go to splice for use with dyneema ropes e.t.c seems to be the Brummel lock splice - they are possible (without doing the tapering ) but ive yet to try them.
A largish eyed needle is easier than splicing needle
Brummel splice
Ive never used any of these type leaders with the splices loops - If you want to try an alternative splice then the go to splice for use with dyneema ropes e.t.c seems to be the Brummel lock splice - they are possible (without doing the tapering ) but ive yet to try them.
A largish eyed needle is easier than splicing needle
Brummel splice
In reply to Post #10
I think the leadless variants (that we are now all forced to use) def slip more than ye olde faithful ESP leadcore . . .with an inch + splice you never needed to blob or glue . . . maybe the lead inner helped with reducing the internal diameter / locking the splice in?
I think the leadless variants (that we are now all forced to use) def slip more than ye olde faithful ESP leadcore . . .with an inch + splice you never needed to blob or glue . . . maybe the lead inner helped with reducing the internal diameter / locking the splice in?
In reply to Post #11
Interesting vid with skills . . . .albeit a little OTT for a carp leader surely? If the OP is struggling with a standard splice methinks this will result in an epic fail . . .
Interesting vid with skills . . . .albeit a little OTT for a carp leader surely? If the OP is struggling with a standard splice methinks this will result in an epic fail . . .
In reply to Post #13
Its certainly an extra step you'd rather not need and you wouldnt want to be doing it with cold hands in the depths of winter !
but if it solves the problem then....
Ive tried it with 40lb nash cling-on and it was pretty straight forward. A thicker/ looser braid would be easier but as i mentioned im yet to test it in anyway.
Its certainly an extra step you'd rather not need and you wouldnt want to be doing it with cold hands in the depths of winter !
but if it solves the problem then....Ive tried it with 40lb nash cling-on and it was pretty straight forward. A thicker/ looser braid would be easier but as i mentioned im yet to test it in anyway.
In reply to Post #12
Yeh old leaded core type was more grippy and bigger internal bore with its lead inner.
Yeh old leaded core type was more grippy and bigger internal bore with its lead inner.