I've set up a running rig with tubing but have a flying back lead above the tubing. I have side hooked a small bead above that to stop the back lead flying right back up the line a bit far as when I reel in the back lead keeps hitting the tip ring and over time I can only think this will damage it or chip the varnish off.
The bead I side hooked I have done so it's not too tight and tested it and the lead with the backlead will move it so in the event of a main line failure it looks like it will slide off it just doesn't look right if you know what I mean!
This is to be use on a barbless only water too.
Thanks!
The bead I side hooked I have done so it's not too tight and tested it and the lead with the backlead will move it so in the event of a main line failure it looks like it will slide off it just doesn't look right if you know what I mean!
This is to be use on a barbless only water too.
Thanks!
In reply to Post #1
It doesn't sound a safe rig to me. If you reel in slower and keep the rod tip high you will give the backleads time to slide down the line.
It doesn't sound a safe rig to me. If you reel in slower and keep the rod tip high you will give the backleads time to slide down the line.
Whats the reason for the tubing, is it a rule?
The whole rig sounds dangerous and over complicated. Have you considered using flurocarbon or a sinking mainline and then ditching the tubing and the backlead?
The whole rig sounds dangerous and over complicated. Have you considered using flurocarbon or a sinking mainline and then ditching the tubing and the backlead?
In reply to Post #1
That sounds horrendous. Beads should NEVER be side hooked for starters
That sounds horrendous. Beads should NEVER be side hooked for starters
In reply to Post #1
Fishing rods are tools. In use there will be wear and tear. What's the problem?
Fishing rods are tools. In use there will be wear and tear. What's the problem?
In reply to Post #1
Do away with the side hooked bead, as IP said never do this.
Avoid hitting the tip ring with the backlead by elevating the rod tip when winding in you will see the backlead making its way towards the tip stop winding and let it slip back towards the rig end, if you want to stop the backlead going against the running lead on the cast PVA it back up the line a few feet if you want it to stop flying back to far do the same behind it at the point you want it to stop, works a treat if you know things like distance between your baited spot and say a bar between you and the spot.
Do away with the side hooked bead, as IP said never do this.
Avoid hitting the tip ring with the backlead by elevating the rod tip when winding in you will see the backlead making its way towards the tip stop winding and let it slip back towards the rig end, if you want to stop the backlead going against the running lead on the cast PVA it back up the line a few feet if you want it to stop flying back to far do the same behind it at the point you want it to stop, works a treat if you know things like distance between your baited spot and say a bar between you and the spot.
To answer a few questions, yes tubing is a rule on one of the lakes I fish I'm afraid and fishing tight lines I didn't think a flouro would be suitable.
The bead is side hooked but I have made the hole bigger so the bead does move easily but I will cut these off after reading your comments as I want to make sure the rig is as safe as possible.
What I was trying to achieve was keeping the last 6ft or so pinned to the bottom.
Thanks all
The bead is side hooked but I have made the hole bigger so the bead does move easily but I will cut these off after reading your comments as I want to make sure the rig is as safe as possible.
What I was trying to achieve was keeping the last 6ft or so pinned to the bottom.
Thanks all
In reply to Post #7
With tubing and semi slack lines with lighter bobbins you should get that.
With tubing and semi slack lines with lighter bobbins you should get that.
In reply to Post #7
You'd be surprised how much line lays on the bottom anyway, as long as you are fishing more than 20-30 yards out and not with tips ultra high and heavy bobbins then don't worry about it too much
You'd be surprised how much line lays on the bottom anyway, as long as you are fishing more than 20-30 yards out and not with tips ultra high and heavy bobbins then don't worry about it too much
In reply to Post #1
do away with the flying back lead and bead, unnecessary IMO
do away with the flying back lead and bead, unnecessary IMO
In reply to Post #1
As IP has said, over around 40yards the line will run along the lakebed anyway, well unless you have your tips pointing almost directly up...
You don't need to pin the line down with a running lead (and a slack line), it pretty much does it itself unless there are major underwater features (bars and troughs) between your end tackle and rod tip, or a big undertow.
If there is a big undertow I wouldn't fish a slack line anyway.
I do use running leads and slack lines quite frequently, and found the best way to get the line down is have your rod tips lower than the rod butts, even below the water surface if possible.
Cast out, and without moving the lead, reel your line tight, with the tip underwater. Pull line off the reel as you put the rod on your buzzers, so it goes slack, touching the bottom of every rod ring. Attach indicator at maximum drop, it will tighten the line, so pull more off until it is slack and dropping straight down from the rod tip. It may take a few minutes of slackening the line as as it sinks it will pull tight again. Eventually it should be straight down and slack again.
Ken T has put up pics of his slack line running rigs on the buzzers.
As for a back bead on the line, sorry, any bead (and/or stop knot) above the lead on a running set-up is a potential tether rig. It only takes the bead to get jammed on the knot, or even full of lakebed detritus or dirt, and the run ring can't come over the breakage. The fish is then trailing line, a lead and a rig.
With no weight pulling on the hook it can be ejected, but a lead does not allow this.
As IP has said, over around 40yards the line will run along the lakebed anyway, well unless you have your tips pointing almost directly up...
You don't need to pin the line down with a running lead (and a slack line), it pretty much does it itself unless there are major underwater features (bars and troughs) between your end tackle and rod tip, or a big undertow.
If there is a big undertow I wouldn't fish a slack line anyway.
I do use running leads and slack lines quite frequently, and found the best way to get the line down is have your rod tips lower than the rod butts, even below the water surface if possible.
Cast out, and without moving the lead, reel your line tight, with the tip underwater. Pull line off the reel as you put the rod on your buzzers, so it goes slack, touching the bottom of every rod ring. Attach indicator at maximum drop, it will tighten the line, so pull more off until it is slack and dropping straight down from the rod tip. It may take a few minutes of slackening the line as as it sinks it will pull tight again. Eventually it should be straight down and slack again.
Ken T has put up pics of his slack line running rigs on the buzzers.
As for a back bead on the line, sorry, any bead (and/or stop knot) above the lead on a running set-up is a potential tether rig. It only takes the bead to get jammed on the knot, or even full of lakebed detritus or dirt, and the run ring can't come over the breakage. The fish is then trailing line, a lead and a rig.
With no weight pulling on the hook it can be ejected, but a lead does not allow this.
In reply to Post #12
Wouldn't fishing olivettes in the same situation present the same potential problems?
Wouldn't fishing olivettes in the same situation present the same potential problems?
I dont think any crap like that should be on your line. When your line snaps and the end pig tails, that flying backlead or olivette is going to get jammed and potentially snagged up.
In reply to Post #15
Agreed, far too much potential for nasty thins to happen
Agreed, far too much potential for nasty thins to happen
In reply to Post #7
I would suggest just pinching on a couple of bits of putty spaced evenly up to 6ft from the lead to keep the line pinned down.
I would suggest just pinching on a couple of bits of putty spaced evenly up to 6ft from the lead to keep the line pinned down.