I have started to use this rig using Korda ones just wanted to know how do I stop the hair loop with ring on moving then going flat against the hook there's nothing to stop it pulling back or is it suppose to be like that
Using a hook bead on the top of the loop. I don't use them for this purpose as it's a lot of long range work at the moment and don't trust them not fishing.
I use a kicker or a tiny bit of silicone tube over top of shank and eye, holds it in place nicely.
In reply to Post #3
I would have thought that Korda would have done this as these rigs are supposed to be ready to go this is the first time I bought ready made rigs in 40 years carp fishing hate making rigs now
I would have thought that Korda would have done this as these rigs are supposed to be ready to go this is the first time I bought ready made rigs in 40 years carp fishing hate making rigs now
In reply to Post #4
It doesn't need silicon or a kicker. My advice would be tie one up for yourself. It's two overhand loops, easiest of all to tie. That way you can match the diameter of the hook eye to the diameter of the coated braid. If you are concerned about it slipping then make it a tight fit.
It doesn't need silicon or a kicker. My advice would be tie one up for yourself. It's two overhand loops, easiest of all to tie. That way you can match the diameter of the hook eye to the diameter of the coated braid. If you are concerned about it slipping then make it a tight fit.
In reply to Post #5
As I said I don't want to make rigs I know how there made I've bought a few Korda ready ones I don't want to go and buy hooks and material i think I will tie some dentel floss material to hook thanks everyone for help
As I said I don't want to make rigs I know how there made I've bought a few Korda ready ones I don't want to go and buy hooks and material i think I will tie some dentel floss material to hook thanks everyone for help
In reply to Post #5
I agree it dosent need them i think it improves it slightly and hook catches better.
I agree it dosent need them i think it improves it slightly and hook catches better.
In reply to Post #1
I don't use the traditional multi, but on my multi hinge rig, I have a small korda hook bead on left side of eye and on the d I use their long range ones tight to eye which not only holds in place but also helps keeps that d and also when you get a fish it stops any pressure being applied to the loop onto the eye when it goes tight to the long range bead. can send you a picture if you DM me your whatsapp number
I don't use the traditional multi, but on my multi hinge rig, I have a small korda hook bead on left side of eye and on the d I use their long range ones tight to eye which not only holds in place but also helps keeps that d and also when you get a fish it stops any pressure being applied to the loop onto the eye when it goes tight to the long range bead. can send you a picture if you DM me your whatsapp number
In reply to Post #1
You could wedge a section of pva nugget behind the loop so it doesnt flatten on the cast
You could wedge a section of pva nugget behind the loop so it doesnt flatten on the cast
In reply to Post #1
On all my own multi-rigs I slide a piece of tubing to butt up against the eye to prevent the hooklink and ring pulling tight to the eye.
On all my own multi-rigs I slide a piece of tubing to butt up against the eye to prevent the hooklink and ring pulling tight to the eye.
I thought that one of the perceived advantages of the multirig is that you can see when you've been 'done' by the loop having closed?
I'm only going by what users have said to me.
I'm only going by what users have said to me.
In reply to Post #10
You've got to wonder how many times fish have been caught on a multi where the bait is by the eye, leaving it fishing like a side hooked boiile?
I use a tiny bit of shrink tube over the eye to make it less likely to pull tight.
You've got to wonder how many times fish have been caught on a multi where the bait is by the eye, leaving it fishing like a side hooked boiile?
I use a tiny bit of shrink tube over the eye to make it less likely to pull tight.
I use to struggle with hook holds in the multi-rig, if your on Facebook take a look at Julian Cundiff's multi-rig, i think personally the components he uses are the best version of it.
In reply to Post #10
I forgot to say, I'm also putting absolutely everything in a PVA bag;
The hook goes in and then point is poking out through the bottom corner, the lead in the opposite corner, then I fill it up with a mix of crumbed boilies and Vitalin, then I gently pull the lead up to just below the level of crumb so the hooklink is tangle free. The bag is then sealed shut, with a lick and stick.
Hookholds with a braided hooklink have been proper, around 20millimetres inside the mouth and definitely needing forceps to get out.
I've been using small critically balanced hookbaits, a couple of meshed 8mm pop-ups and wafters (RH Naturalz), over that PVA bag and quite often a bucket of spod mix, Vitalin or birdfood.
I forgot to say, I'm also putting absolutely everything in a PVA bag;
The hook goes in and then point is poking out through the bottom corner, the lead in the opposite corner, then I fill it up with a mix of crumbed boilies and Vitalin, then I gently pull the lead up to just below the level of crumb so the hooklink is tangle free. The bag is then sealed shut, with a lick and stick.
Hookholds with a braided hooklink have been proper, around 20millimetres inside the mouth and definitely needing forceps to get out.
I've been using small critically balanced hookbaits, a couple of meshed 8mm pop-ups and wafters (RH Naturalz), over that PVA bag and quite often a bucket of spod mix, Vitalin or birdfood.
In reply to Post #1
Hook bead. Used it for years like this, although now I normally fish multi hinge rigs but the beads work perfectly to stop the loop pulling tight.
Hook bead. Used it for years like this, although now I normally fish multi hinge rigs but the beads work perfectly to stop the loop pulling tight.
In reply to Post #15
Same, I use the small korda one and the larger on the loop side. Works a treat and help keeps loop shape and keeps the end of loop nice after landing a fish. Also the small bead doesn't move so you can get loop in exact same position every time
Same, I use the small korda one and the larger on the loop side. Works a treat and help keeps loop shape and keeps the end of loop nice after landing a fish. Also the small bead doesn't move so you can get loop in exact same position every time
It's just a matter of finding the right combination of hooklink and eye size. Experiment.
Avoid chod hook, as the eyes tend to be too large. I generally use size 6 continentals and 20-25lb coated braids. It should be hard to pull the loop through the eye to ensure it stays in place.
My favourite rig ever.
Avoid chod hook, as the eyes tend to be too large. I generally use size 6 continentals and 20-25lb coated braids. It should be hard to pull the loop through the eye to ensure it stays in place.
My favourite rig ever.
Tie a two/three bait stringer to the D and that will prevent it from slipping on the cast and have the benefit of a couple of freebies also 👍
In reply to Post #17
Totally agree
Totally agree
In reply to Post #18
The D should never slip anyway. The hookbait and where the wind resistance is dictates that unless you add weight to the hook, it'll never slip
The D should never slip anyway. The hookbait and where the wind resistance is dictates that unless you add weight to the hook, it'll never slip
In reply to Post #20
Don't see why you wouldn't have a bead either side anyway. No brainer
Don't see why you wouldn't have a bead either side anyway. No brainer
In reply to Post #21
If you've got confidence in it, why not.
Apart from a zig, i can count on one, (2 at best) hands how many times ive used a rig other than a multi rig in the last 9 or 10 years and i dont think that the loop has ever closed on the cast etc
If you've got confidence in it, why not.
Apart from a zig, i can count on one, (2 at best) hands how many times ive used a rig other than a multi rig in the last 9 or 10 years and i dont think that the loop has ever closed on the cast etc
In reply to Post #21
If you've got confidence in it, why not.
Apart from a zig, i can count on one, (2 at best) hands how many times ive used a rig other than a multi rig in the last 9 or 10 years and i dont think that the loop has ever closed on the cast etc
If you've got confidence in it, why not.
Apart from a zig, i can count on one, (2 at best) hands how many times ive used a rig other than a multi rig in the last 9 or 10 years and i dont think that the loop has ever closed on the cast etc
In reply to Post #23
I was late onto the Multi-rig, preferring more 'normal' presentations. I have had a few pull tight on playing fish (I think during the fight), but never reeled one in on a retrieve to recast that's pulled tight.
I was late onto the Multi-rig, preferring more 'normal' presentations. I have had a few pull tight on playing fish (I think during the fight), but never reeled one in on a retrieve to recast that's pulled tight.
See https://therigfactor.wordpress.com/2016/07/12/the-multi-rig-explained-part-three/
"When I was testing the hook loop mechanics at Harefield Lake in 2000, (yes it's that long ago!) I rigorously went through a casting out and reeling in process over and over again to check while using different hooks the loop hadn't slipped or moved. I did that by following the line from my rod tip and wading out with the line in my fingers to where the lead had landed and was able to see my hookbait on the bottom. Every time the loop on the shank was in exactly the position I put it in before casting out and that has been the case ever since. The reason for this is quite simple, air resistance on the hookbait /s during the cast prevents the loop from slipping out of position and water resistance takes over when the lead enters the lake and pulls the rig down to the bottom. The whole time the hookbait is being forced in the opposite direction to the lead which straightens the hooklink and prevents the loop from sliding forwards or backwards. However, if when you reel in the hook gets caught up on some weed or some other obstruction then the loop will obviously be pulled down to the eye. If and when that happens' you simply reset the loop to the desired position on the shank and recast."
"When I was testing the hook loop mechanics at Harefield Lake in 2000, (yes it's that long ago!) I rigorously went through a casting out and reeling in process over and over again to check while using different hooks the loop hadn't slipped or moved. I did that by following the line from my rod tip and wading out with the line in my fingers to where the lead had landed and was able to see my hookbait on the bottom. Every time the loop on the shank was in exactly the position I put it in before casting out and that has been the case ever since. The reason for this is quite simple, air resistance on the hookbait /s during the cast prevents the loop from slipping out of position and water resistance takes over when the lead enters the lake and pulls the rig down to the bottom. The whole time the hookbait is being forced in the opposite direction to the lead which straightens the hooklink and prevents the loop from sliding forwards or backwards. However, if when you reel in the hook gets caught up on some weed or some other obstruction then the loop will obviously be pulled down to the eye. If and when that happens' you simply reset the loop to the desired position on the shank and recast."
Only way the loop pulls tight is if the resistance of the loop going through the eye is exceeded by a greater pressure applied to the hook i.e. hooked fish, snarled up with weed on retrieve or potentially on the cast if used with a PVA bag of which the conventional multi-rig shouldn't be used with them anyway.
In reply to Post #17
ESP tungsten loaded 20lb and Cryogen Stiff Riggers in 6 are perfect for this
ESP tungsten loaded 20lb and Cryogen Stiff Riggers in 6 are perfect for this
Been using the combi multi almost exclusively for the last 18 months and I haven't had any issue with the D slipping. There is lots of weed in my near margin at the lake I fish and often my hook gets snarled up in the weed when retrieving, but even then it doesn't pull it tight.
ESP 1mm silicone tubing fits perfectly over size 5/6 hooks and holds it tight
ESP 1mm silicone tubing fits perfectly over size 5/6 hooks and holds it tight
In reply to Post #1
If you don't have confidence in the rig staying as it should cut a PVA nugget in half and slip it through the loop. no movement on the cast or until the rig is picked up.
If you don't have confidence in the rig staying as it should cut a PVA nugget in half and slip it through the loop. no movement on the cast or until the rig is picked up.
Hi everyone,
Just a brainwave this eve, has anyone tried shrinking over the entire upright section and knot. Reason I've tried it out is I want to keep a curve in this part as per a hinged stiff rig. I'm using ultra skin stiff so keeps it somewhat anyway. But just wanted some views and feedback on the pic below. Looks so similar to a ronnie now which puts me off, but really it is a multi
stop the clocks poem
Just a brainwave this eve, has anyone tried shrinking over the entire upright section and knot. Reason I've tried it out is I want to keep a curve in this part as per a hinged stiff rig. I'm using ultra skin stiff so keeps it somewhat anyway. But just wanted some views and feedback on the pic below. Looks so similar to a ronnie now which puts me off, but really it is a multi
stop the clocks poem
In reply to Post #30
I personally use a little rubber kicker but I can see shrink tubing working just as well although you cant just quickly change the hook with shrink tube like you can with a little rubber kicker. This looks very much like the old withy pool rig to me but just with a slip D.
I personally use a little rubber kicker but I can see shrink tubing working just as well although you cant just quickly change the hook with shrink tube like you can with a little rubber kicker. This looks very much like the old withy pool rig to me but just with a slip D.
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