Is it possible to pull a bead onto tubing?
If so how?
If so how?
In reply to Post #1
Either buy a bead the right size. Or put a bit of heat shrink on your tubing, about 1cm. Then get a bead slightly larger than your tubing so it threads on the tubing, and you should be able to wet it and push it onto the heat shrink part.
Either buy a bead the right size. Or put a bit of heat shrink on your tubing, about 1cm. Then get a bead slightly larger than your tubing so it threads on the tubing, and you should be able to wet it and push it onto the heat shrink part.
I fish tubing as leaders are banned where I go and use the tungsten tube beads from Bank Tackle and they thread on nicely but hold position firm.
In reply to Post #3
How do you thread them onto the tubing?
How do you thread them onto the tubing?
In reply to Post #4
Wet the tube and pull. They go on easily.
https://www.banktackle.co.uk/tungsten-beads-for-rig-tubing-4349-p.asp
Wet the tube and pull. They go on easily.
https://www.banktackle.co.uk/tungsten-beads-for-rig-tubing-4349-p.asp
In reply to Post #4
Tube tool -solar used to do one.
Tube tool -solar used to do one.
All sorted now thanks folks. Cut the tube at a 45 degree angle then managed to pull it through the bead with a small gate latch needle.
Not as difficult as I thought it was going to be
Not as difficult as I thought it was going to be
If it's a challenge to get on, how difficult is it to get off?
In reply to Post #1
Get the Gardner covert safety beads they are a tapered bead they are exactly what I use with tubing when fishing heli setup . The bead pushes on the tubing easy enough and grips it enough
Get the Gardner covert safety beads they are a tapered bead they are exactly what I use with tubing when fishing heli setup . The bead pushes on the tubing easy enough and grips it enough
In reply to Post #8
Doesn't necessarily matter if not using helicopters etc
The line should still run through the bore of the tubing
Doesn't necessarily matter if not using helicopters etc
The line should still run through the bore of the tubing
In reply to Post #10
The inly real instance that is going to need to happen is after the line snaps. Its very rarely a clean cut, it usually pig tails, and there's no way tubing could slide over that.
The inly real instance that is going to need to happen is after the line snaps. Its very rarely a clean cut, it usually pig tails, and there's no way tubing could slide over that.
In reply to Post #11
in that case it wouldn't matter if he wasn't using beads at all.
The tubing would be the problem not the bead.
in that case it wouldn't matter if he wasn't using beads at all.
The tubing would be the problem not the bead.
In reply to Post #10
OK....why would we need a bead on the tubing if not using a heli set up? I think I'm either misunderstanding (highly possible) or there's no need for a bead.
OK....why would we need a bead on the tubing if not using a heli set up? I think I'm either misunderstanding (highly possible) or there's no need for a bead.
In reply to Post #13
Might be really anal about getting every bit of tubing on the bottom or doesn't trust it if it's not a tungsten tubing
Could be various reasons but we are all only guessing on what he wants to use it for..
I've done it before and on a heli set up but I do have a solar rig tool so it opens the bead out slightly and it moves quite easy, even dry.
I will also use spaghetti as a heli bead stop sometimes but I am wierd.
Might be really anal about getting every bit of tubing on the bottom or doesn't trust it if it's not a tungsten tubing
Could be various reasons but we are all only guessing on what he wants to use it for..
I've done it before and on a heli set up but I do have a solar rig tool so it opens the bead out slightly and it moves quite easy, even dry.
I will also use spaghetti as a heli bead stop sometimes but I am wierd.
In reply to Post #11
I recently retrieved a snapped off deeper, or rather my dog did. You'd be lucky if a run ring would have passed over the 30M of tangled braid behind it. I realise that you can't account for every possibility but I wouldn't rely on the line pulling through anti tangle tube to free the lead in the event of a snap off.
I recently retrieved a snapped off deeper, or rather my dog did. You'd be lucky if a run ring would have passed over the 30M of tangled braid behind it. I realise that you can't account for every possibility but I wouldn't rely on the line pulling through anti tangle tube to free the lead in the event of a snap off.
In reply to Post #14
I use tungsten putty moulded around the top end of the tubing if I want to make sure it lies flat. Although that was more of a problem with the early tubing. Modern tungsten tubing is not likely to float up.
I use tungsten putty moulded around the top end of the tubing if I want to make sure it lies flat. Although that was more of a problem with the early tubing. Modern tungsten tubing is not likely to float up.
In reply to Post #16
He doesn't say it tungsten
He doesn't say it tungsten
Solar tube tool for me, although I don't know if there is any equivalent.
Helps get beads onto tubing as well as tubing into tail rubbers or buffer beads.
It can be harder to get a rubber bead onto tubing than for the bead to slide off.
Helps get beads onto tubing as well as tubing into tail rubbers or buffer beads.
It can be harder to get a rubber bead onto tubing than for the bead to slide off.
I use à ferrule needle I use it at work and it also helpful for the beads 👍
In reply to Post #13
When your using a "Startle Rig" basically a running rig with a Bead a few inches up that the run ring hits on a take - no need to strike, highly effective set up.
Obviously the bead must be slack enough to come off the tubing if you snap off for some reason, but if the Bead was to tight you would never get it on the Tubing in the first place.
When your using a "Startle Rig" basically a running rig with a Bead a few inches up that the run ring hits on a take - no need to strike, highly effective set up.
Obviously the bead must be slack enough to come off the tubing if you snap off for some reason, but if the Bead was to tight you would never get it on the Tubing in the first place.
In reply to Post #20
Got it, pretty interesting.
For those who have difficulty threading tubing, this works a treat: Tube Threader
Got it, pretty interesting.
For those who have difficulty threading tubing, this works a treat: Tube Threader
In reply to Post #20
I've used this type of rig in the past, I put shrink tube on the tubing so an oversized bead would sit on it. As someone said below this makes the bead easily pulled off if needed.
I've used this type of rig in the past, I put shrink tube on the tubing so an oversized bead would sit on it. As someone said below this makes the bead easily pulled off if needed.
In reply to Post #22
I must have used it for all my Carp, Cat, Pike and Barbel fishing for over 30 years!
It's just so adaptable - bead fully down and you have a "Semi-Fixed" set up, move up and a "Startle Rig" set up, for Cat's and Pike I move the Bead right to the top of the Tubing, which I use usually around 18" long.
Only problem is the Startle effect can be so effective that the Tubing gets ripped out of the long Buffer Bead at the base. Tried all sorts to try and stop it happening, only one that seems to work a bit is to put a Taper into the end of the tubing (Splay it out into a cone shape) so it does not pull out of the Buffer bead so easily.
I must have used it for all my Carp, Cat, Pike and Barbel fishing for over 30 years!
It's just so adaptable - bead fully down and you have a "Semi-Fixed" set up, move up and a "Startle Rig" set up, for Cat's and Pike I move the Bead right to the top of the Tubing, which I use usually around 18" long.
Only problem is the Startle effect can be so effective that the Tubing gets ripped out of the long Buffer Bead at the base. Tried all sorts to try and stop it happening, only one that seems to work a bit is to put a Taper into the end of the tubing (Splay it out into a cone shape) so it does not pull out of the Buffer bead so easily.
In reply to Post #23
Put your buffer bead on the tubing, and a tube threader inside the tubing, then with a lighter, just melt the end of the tubing. It normally flares out enough so the tubing doesn't pull out of the buffer bead.
Put your buffer bead on the tubing, and a tube threader inside the tubing, then with a lighter, just melt the end of the tubing. It normally flares out enough so the tubing doesn't pull out of the buffer bead.
In reply to Post #24
That's what I've been doing via heating a tapered Knot Picking tool and inserting it into the end of the Tubing.
It does work, but you would think someone would have made a tiny "Stop" you could thread on the tubing just like a Float Stop on your line, as everybody must have the same very annoying problem.
That's what I've been doing via heating a tapered Knot Picking tool and inserting it into the end of the Tubing. It does work, but you would think someone would have made a tiny "Stop" you could thread on the tubing just like a Float Stop on your line, as everybody must have the same very annoying problem.
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