How are people finding this just tied some up worries me that there isn't much distance from bait to hook,like hair rigs have that separation. ?
In reply to Post #1
Loads of fish have fell victim to micro-swivels and bait screws on the hook wouldnt worry about... If you want some distance maybe look at some d rig kickers to push the bait further away?
Loads of fish have fell victim to micro-swivels and bait screws on the hook wouldnt worry about... If you want some distance maybe look at some d rig kickers to push the bait further away?
In reply to Post #1
If you lay the rig down flat out and then use your finger and thumb to pick the bait up (mimicking a carp sucking up the bait) you will see that the hook turns easily so the point has a very good chance of penetrating the bottom lip.
Aided by the putty or shot around an inch or so below the hook.
My hook of choice is a wide gape.
If you lay the rig down flat out and then use your finger and thumb to pick the bait up (mimicking a carp sucking up the bait) you will see that the hook turns easily so the point has a very good chance of penetrating the bottom lip.
Aided by the putty or shot around an inch or so below the hook.
My hook of choice is a wide gape.
In reply to Post #3
How is the best way to set it up ? Use a swivel with the hook ? D rig kicker maybe ? Or just straight whipped to the hook maybe some shrink tube ?
How is the best way to set it up ? Use a swivel with the hook ? D rig kicker maybe ? Or just straight whipped to the hook maybe some shrink tube ?
In reply to Post #4
ESP tungsten semi stiff, size 4 mugga, swivel on the shank stopped by the knotless knot one end and a hook bead opposite the barb. Big dollop of putty about 1 to 11/2 inches from the hook and any wafter from 12 to 18mm. 2 inch loop at the other end of the hooklink
No shrik tube, no 'D's, nothing more and nothing less. Fanstastic wafter rig that i have caught hundreds of carp on to over 65lb in the last few years. Dont over complicate it
ESP tungsten semi stiff, size 4 mugga, swivel on the shank stopped by the knotless knot one end and a hook bead opposite the barb. Big dollop of putty about 1 to 11/2 inches from the hook and any wafter from 12 to 18mm. 2 inch loop at the other end of the hooklink
No shrik tube, no 'D's, nothing more and nothing less. Fanstastic wafter rig that i have caught hundreds of carp on to over 65lb in the last few years. Dont over complicate it
In reply to Post #5
Tied 2 up the first as you describe same components,the other with a size 6 esp trig Hamer and a Korda kicker...have to say the Korda kicker one sits a lot better for me but I can't argue with the results people have on your set up mate,I'm gonna fish them side by side next week...little bag of chops on each one see what happens
Tied 2 up the first as you describe same components,the other with a size 6 esp trig Hamer and a Korda kicker...have to say the Korda kicker one sits a lot better for me but I can't argue with the results people have on your set up mate,I'm gonna fish them side by side next week...little bag of chops on each one see what happens
In reply to Post #5
Standard German Over Turbo ?
Standard German Over Turbo ?
In reply to Post #7
Standard mate. Never used the turbo as never had the need.
Buy some size 4 muggas
Standard mate. Never used the turbo as never had the need.
Buy some size 4 muggas
In reply to Post #8
Just done one with a size 4 mugga & esp semi stiff 8-9 inch approx
Just done one with a size 4 mugga & esp semi stiff 8-9 inch approx
In reply to Post #8
Do you find the angle of the eye on the mugga closes the gape too much? or are you happy with it as is?
Do you find the angle of the eye on the mugga closes the gape too much? or are you happy with it as is?
In reply to Post #10
I've settled on using a Korda d rig kicker,Spinner swivel & 25lb boom with size 4 mugga using the D rig kicker gives a better angle for me
I've settled on using a Korda d rig kicker,Spinner swivel & 25lb boom with size 4 mugga using the D rig kicker gives a better angle for me
Personally find the slip d a much better rig
In reply to Post #11
you cant tell some people
you cant tell some people
In reply to Post #12
Yeah I think looking at them side by side I would favour the slip d over the German I just like some seperation
Yeah I think looking at them side by side I would favour the slip d over the German I just like some seperation
In reply to Post #14
If you want separation just tie a hair on? Rig ring with a 3 cm loop or something..........
If you want separation just tie a hair on? Rig ring with a 3 cm loop or something..........
In reply to Post #15
D rig kicker is a lot easier
D rig kicker is a lot easier
In reply to Post #5
exactly how i use it. great rig
exactly how i use it. great rig
In reply to Post #5
Any pictures pal
Any pictures pal
In reply to Post #18
Of the rig or the fish?
Of the rig or the fish?
I have recently noticed that the hook bead position can play a big part in how the hook turns downwards once the bait is picked up. I have always used a hook kicker on my German rigs too. Again I have found the positioning of this to be important. Before you cast out lift the bait with your thumb and finger and check the hook drops down into a hooking position. If not, try adjusting the position of the bead/kicker until it does so!
Fantastic rig that has served me well over the years. Use with confidence
Fantastic rig that has served me well over the years. Use with confidence
In reply to Post #20
Exactly. I notice that too many people position the hook bead too close to the bend of the hook, whereas with the bead closer to the eye, a nice curve shank hook will drop into a prone position much more effectively. I'm using Ridgemonkey Apex medium curves and find that the bead dead opposite the hook point is perfect.
Exactly. I notice that too many people position the hook bead too close to the bend of the hook, whereas with the bead closer to the eye, a nice curve shank hook will drop into a prone position much more effectively. I'm using Ridgemonkey Apex medium curves and find that the bead dead opposite the hook point is perfect.
In reply to Post #21
I actually found I get much better hook holds on a German rig with a wide gape hook and a bit of shrink tube or a kicker, never really got along with a curve shank hook for my Germans
I actually found I get much better hook holds on a German rig with a wide gape hook and a bit of shrink tube or a kicker, never really got along with a curve shank hook for my Germans
In reply to Post #22
Do you strip back the coating or fish coated hooklink to the hook
Do you strip back the coating or fish coated hooklink to the hook
In reply to Post #23
I strip back a small section about 2cms behind the hook I prefer the movement for the hook, in my opinion this gets you bites quicker than a standard German with coated braid right through
I strip back a small section about 2cms behind the hook I prefer the movement for the hook, in my opinion this gets you bites quicker than a standard German with coated braid right through
In reply to Post #21
Exactly the setup I use. Great combo
I've personally never stripped any coating. I know there is a recent youtube video which suggests making a tiny break in the coating helps with hooking properties. This may well be true, I'm just simply speaking from experience of my own fishing
Exactly the setup I use. Great combo
I've personally never stripped any coating. I know there is a recent youtube video which suggests making a tiny break in the coating helps with hooking properties. This may well be true, I'm just simply speaking from experience of my own fishing
In reply to Post #23
Nope
Nope
In reply to Post #5
I myself have used this very rig to great effect in lengths from 7" to 12" and it works for me.
I myself have used this very rig to great effect in lengths from 7" to 12" and it works for me.
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