Just wondering What people are using to slow/stop the hook point rusting on hand sharpened hooks? Iv tried acouple of pens but there not the best. Cheers in advance

In reply to Post #1
http://www.carpforum.co.uk/Shared/Messages.asp?TopicID=414455&ReadAll=1

1 – Marker Pens. Rubbish, but will protect for a few hours.

2 – JAG Pens. Slightly less rubbish. Should last a night.

3 – Silicone/Petroleum Jelly (Mucilin, Vaseline, Lypsyl etc) – similar to the JAG pens, just short of rubbish.

4 – Beeswax. Decent, but sticky, which will not aid hook penetration. Easily a good 24 h+ protection, probs more.

5 – Candle wax. Very decent. A few strokes followed by the lick of a lighter. 24 hrs+ easy, probs more.

6 – Specialist Sharpened Hooks Anti Rust Compound. Excellent. The best I've used. Again - a few strokes followed by the lick of a lighter. 48 hrs protection.

7 – Crayons. Never used them but the SSH compound is very, very similar so I assume they'll work well.

8 – The oil from the side of your nose (lol). Shelley popped this one up on YouTube a while back. I'm not sure if it was a wind-up or what, but I have actually seen others quoting this as a useful method. It is not. Don't bother.

In reply to Post #2
Spot on thanks

In reply to Post #2
What a great comprehensive response Yonny

In reply to Post #2
That one from Jim Shelly 😂😂

In reply to Post #2
Yonny,

Did you already test those hard protective coatings for cars?
On the market you've got DIY kits to apply a ceramic, hydrophobic coating to cars.

In reply to Post #6
No mate, that stuff is news to me. Looks interesting.
I had a quick read and it's a nano coating so on paper it's not going to compromise hook sharpness.
Have you tried it?

In reply to Post #7
I didn't try it yet since i've got no issues with rusting hooks.
But at work we use similar coatings on cookware.
Since they are silica based they have lots of advantages;
- Hydrophobic
- very hard. Up to 9H pencil hardness
- room temperature curable
- very thin (micron to nanometer scale)

Good stuff Yonny & Yneck.

In reply to Post #8
If it works I wonder how long it'll take for it to be rebottled and carp tax to be added?

In reply to Post #10
Jeez, it costs enough without it lol.

In reply to Post #11
for the once that want to know how it works on a car:

https://avalonking.com/how-it-works/

In reply to Post #12
That's an interesting product, I wonder if it's maybe a bit too good. How long would a lost hook take to rot away after a treatment with this?

In reply to Post #13
its probably similar to what the hook manufacturers use -they have to coat them with something or we'd see all our unsharpened hooks rusting in the same way the sharpened ones do.

In reply to Post #13
how long doest it take for non-coated Iron?

In reply to Post #1
I've been using the little green covers from korda, not seen a bit of rust, I've got some spare if you want them

In reply to Post #14
Standard hooks are electroplated or ptfe coated, very different Phil.

In reply to Post #15
Unprotected iron will rust as quick as anything but bear in mind hooks are steel, not iron. Carbon steel (what hooks are made from) contains mostly iron but the bit that isnt makes a huge difference to characteristics.

In reply to Post #18
Since I don't know the type of steel they use (carbon content, additives to help processing, impurities, etc) to make hooks, so I just called it iron.

I returned the question to our friend because I don't know if a hook will degrade quickly.
the small bit coated with something else than PTFE will not have a big influence

In reply to Post #19
I really wouldn't know.
It just made me think of the heated debates I've read in the past about stainless steel hooks in big game fishing. I suppose if it can be applied accurately only to the point area it shouldn't have any negative effect

Some lakes make your hooks and swivels dull and rust, maybe it's either high alkaline or high acid, I don't know which -

In reply to Post #21
It's low pH so more acidic.